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Rome, Italy
Overview
Introduction
Rome, Italy, seems to have its own gravitational pull, attracting not only millions of tourists each year, but also the most creative artists and thinkers of every era. All that surrounds a visitor in Rome—the stunning art and architecture, the terrible traffic, the grandeur of scale and the lively (almost hyperanimated) citizens—guarantees an unforgettable trip.

Known as the "Eternal City," Rome is a supreme palimpsest. The ruins of pagan temples have become the foundations of Christian churches, ancient theaters have been made into medieval family fortresses, and Corinthian columns support new walls. The ages are layered, one atop the other, but the flow of Roman life is ever forward, with a respect for its glorious past.

Rome wasn't built in a day, so don't expect to see it in one. The historic center alone could absorb a week: the Michelangelo-designed Campidoglio, the Pantheon, the Palatine Hill and the Roman Forum, as well as the nearby Colosseum and Baths of Caracalla. The basilicas take a little longer because they are spread throughout the city.

If it's Rome's views you're after, climb up into the dome of St. Peter's or admire the panorama from the top of the Spanish Steps (better yet, from the Pincio Gardens above it) at sunset. Or survey the Forum at night from the Capitoline. Bustling, beautiful Rome, sprawling among its seven hills, is fascinating for both its ancient and its modern wonders.

Of course, not everyone immediately loves Rome: Some dislike the city's untidiness and seeming disorganization. But give la bella citta a chance to charm or else risk missing something magnificent.

Map
Must See or Do
Sights—The ancient Forums, the Palatine Hill, Trajan's Markets, the Campidoglio and the Colosseum; St. Peter's Basilica; the fountains of Piazza Navona; the Spanish Steps; the Pantheon; Trevi Fountain; Circus Maximus; the catacombs and monuments along the ancient Appian Way; Piazza del Popolo and the Pincio Gardens above it; Castel Sant'Angelo.

Museums—The Vatican Museums and the Sistine Chapel; sculptures, frescoes and the Tabularium of the Capitoline Museums; phenomenal art at the Galleria Borghese; the privately owned Galleria Doria Pamphilj; the unique paintings in Palazzo Barberini; the modern works at the Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna; the Etruscan treasures at the Villa Giulia; history's layers at the Museo Nazionale Crypta Balbi.

Memorable Meals—Linguine with lobster sauce followed by baked turbot at Ristorante da Vincenzo; Mediterranean sushi at F.I.S.H.; fried fillet of codfish with zucchini flowers and artichokes Guida at Piperno; sliced, aged beef with fresh basil and Parmesan cheese at Da Tullio; brusque service and celebrities in the Spartan Pizzeria Panattoni "Ai Marmi"; nouvelle cuisine at L'Antico Arco, atop the Gianicolo Hill; wandering the ancient streets with slices from any pizzeria al taglio (takeaway); a picnic from the gourmet deli Volpetti.

Late Night—Fine jazz at Alexanderplatz; kitsch at Jonathan's Angels; a quiet drink at the swanky Antico Caffe della Pace; dancing at Zoobar or other Testaccio hot spots; late-night vistas from atop the Gianicolo Hill, at the electric Piazza Navona or while walking from Piazza Venezia to the Colosseum.

Walks—A leisurely walk from the top of the Spanish Steps to the Pincio Gardens at dusk; a daytime walk through the outdoor market at Campo dei Fiori; an excursion from the Trevi Fountain to the Pantheon before or after dinner; a nighttime trek to view the Colosseum and the ruins of the Forums beautifully illuminated; a midnight adventure through the medieval streets of Trastevere; a stroll in the picturesque open spaces of Villa Borghese and Villa Pamphilj.

Especially for Kids—A visit to the Museum of Roman Civilization (Museo della Civilta Romana); the Bioparco zoo in Villa Borghese and its Children's Farm; the Explora Children's Museum; go-karts on the Pincio; climbing the dome of St. Peter's; sticking your hand in La Bocca della Verita (the Mouth of Truth); searching for animals and other hidden pictures on fountains and monuments; indulging in gelato and pizza.

Geography
For urban planners and traffic managers, Rome is a headache. Streets originally designed for horses now have to accommodate SUVs. Fortunately, visitors need only focus on navigating the city, not solving its traffic problems.

The city's historic center is the Centro Storico—it's on the left bank (east side) of the Tiber River (called the Tevere in Italian), and home to the original seven hills. The ancient political, spiritual and commercial heart of this area is the Campidoglio (Capitoline Hill) and the adjacent Foro Romano (Roman Forum). Nearby are the most important monuments of ancient Rome, including Trajan's Markets, the Imperial Forum, the Colosseum and the Arches of Constantine, Septimus Severus and Titus. To the south are Palatine Hill, Circus Maximus and, a bit farther, the Baths of Caracalla, the Appian Way and the Christian catacombs.

The city's main piazzas are also helpful for orientation. Piazza Venezia and the adjoining Piazza Campidoglio are just northwest of the Roman Forum, and Piazza Navona is still farther northwest. Piazza del Popolo is on the western edge of Villa Borghese, a large park northeast of the Centro Storico. Piazza di Spagna and the Spanish Steps are just south of Piazza del Popolo. Connecting Via del Popolo and Piazza Venezia is Via del Corso, the city's main street.

On the right (west) bank of the Tiber, west of the Centro Storico, is Vatican City. To the south of the Vatican are Villa Doria Pamphilj and Gianicolo (Janiculum Hill). The medieval neighborhood of Trastevere (literally, "across the river") is between the Gianicolo and the river, nestled in the westward bend of the river across from Isola Tiberina, an island in the Tiber. On the east side of Tiberina is the old Jewish ghetto, which contains one of the largest synagogues in Europe along with some of the best restaurants serving traditional Roman fare.

History
Rome is nicknamed the Eternal City not merely for surviving almost 3,000 years but for retaining political, religious and artistic significance throughout that time. Legend has it that Rome was founded by Romulus in 753 BC, but archaeologists have found evidence of a much earlier Etruscan settlement. Fact and myth are difficult to untangle, but it's clear that Rome was already the major power in Latium by the time of the Republic's foundation in 509 BC. By the first century AD, Rome was dominating the Mediterranean through military conquest, cunning diplomacy and innovative political organization.

During the period of the late Republic, Julius Caesar and other generals extended the boundaries and glory of Rome, while simultaneously destroying its principles of government. The Roman Empire followed, remaining a heavyweight power for hundreds of years. Initially, literature flourished with great writers such as Cicero, Virgil, Catullus and Ovid. As the arts bloomed, however, the political structure crumbled. Squabbles and coups—as well as increased debauchery—eventually led to the Empire's division and fall.

In the first century AD, the apostles Peter and Paul arrived in Rome to proselytize, but they were martyred, along with hundreds of other Christians. Persecutions continued, on and off, until the Emperor Constantine legalized the faith in AD 312. The first Christian emperor also gave the Catholic Church temporal powers, beginning the papal state, which continued until the end of the 19th century (with occasional periods of foreign occupation). Papal coffers funded the projects of Michelangelo, Raphael and Bernini, the University of Rome and much of the city's infrastructure—as well as the infamous inquisitions, beginning in the 12th century.

Benito Mussolini descended on Rome in 1922 and formed the world's first fascist government. When World War II broke out, the nation allied itself with Nazi Germany, but the Partigiani (Resistance) soon convinced most Italians to support the Allies. Rome's open-city status spared it from the destruction of bombing but did little to stop the massacres and pillaging by the Germans.

American troops liberated Rome on 4 June 1944, yet the city and country were destitute. The 1950s economic boom revived both, triggering the dolce vita, era of glamour. The capital steadily grew in cultural and political power. The city had a makeover for the Vatican's 2000 jubilee and now has a revitalized urban plan, improved infrastructure and massive restoration projects under way. Rome continues to bloom with art, architecture, culture, tourism and fine living.

Potpourri
The Kingdom of Italy was proclaimed on 17 March 1861, but it was not finally unified until 1870.

The calendar we use today is more than 2,000 years old and was started by Julius Caesar. The month of July is, in fact, named after the emperor himself.

Italy celebrates 1 May as a national holiday, akin to the U.S. Labor Day; during this time, Rome hosts numerous music concerts, and international celebrities congregate in the city.

The games held to mark the inauguration of the Colosseum lasted for 100 days and nights, during which more than 5,000 animals were killed.

The historical center of Rome was constantly flooded by the Tiber River until retaining walls were built in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Since then, the river has flooded the city only once, in 1937. It came within a few feet/meters of flooding the city center again in early 2009.

Italian children do not receive gifts only from Santa Claus. Until the last decade or so, Italian children primarily received presents from the Befana witch on the eve of 6 January, which is Epiphany or Twelfth Night. The tradition traces to pre-Christian times. Befana leaves a lump of coal (mostly candy shaped as coal) since no children are thought to have been good all year.

Romans have traditionally used "talking statues" to voice their opposition to corruption and abuses by tacking notes onto statues on busy streets. Although the practice has been largely abandoned, four important talking statues remain: The Pasquino (Piazza Pasquino), Marforio (Capitoline Museums), Babuino (Via Babuino) and Il Facchino (Via Lata).

Romans are among the most superstitious Italians. When Romans see a nun, they immediately touch iron to ward off bad luck; bird excrement on the shoe and hearing a cat sneeze are considered signs of good luck.

See & Do
Sightseeing
Rome is a great open-air museum with a high concentration of monuments, churches and artwork, enmeshed in a modern city with a lot of fast cars, mopeds and people strolling around in very stylish shoes. Even the smallest courtyard hidden in the narrowest street may hold a tiny, wonderful detail—a decorated sidewalk or a stray column, fresco or fountain. To get the most out of your visit, you'll need to walk (but we recommend you wear comfortable shoes). Before setting off, stop by one of the information kiosks that dispense maps, brochures and advice in several languages.

Start in the historic heart of the city, called the Centro Storico. That's where you'll find the Imperial Forums, including the Roman Forum, Trajan's Column and Markets, and the Palatine Hill. Nearby are the Arch of Constantine, the Colosseum and the Circus Maximus. Then detour a bit to visit the palaces around Piazza del Campidoglio, which contain the Capitoline Museums.

On another day, explore the area between the Forums and Piazza del Popolo: You'll pass the facades of noble palaces and churches and stroll through elegant squares. Along the way, be sure to turn off the Via del Corso to visit the Pantheon to the west and the Trevi Fountain to the east. Once you reach Piazza del Popolo, take time to enjoy the green expanse of the Pincio Gardens. The nearby Villa Borghese is home not only to umbrella pines but also to three world-class museums: Galleria Borghese, Galleria Nazionale di Arte Moderna and Museo Nazionale di Villa Giulia.

World-famous examples of Christian and pre-Christian art and architecture are contained in St. Peter's Basilica and the Vatican Museums in Vatican City. The medieval district of Trastevere, across the river from the oldest part of Rome, has one of the oldest churches in Christendom, Santa Maria in Trastevere. But it's also a great place to stroll, dine or shop, especially at night, when the bohemian streets come alive. Back across the river, on the left bank, the Jewish Ghetto is another medieval area full of ambience. If time permits, you can also visit the Catacombs of San Sebastiano or San Callisto or, invariably, one more church.

Be forewarned: Hours of admission for museums and historic sites sometimes change without notice. To save yourself stress, call to check times or reserve a time slot for something that is important to you. Booking at the Vatican Museums can save hours in waiting time, and reservations are compulsory at the Galleria Borghese. Women must have their shoulders covered and men must have their knees covered to enter churches. As a rule, most churches are open in the morning, close around 12:30 pm for lunch and reopen at 3:30 pm. Keep these guidelines in mind and you'll avoid the dreaded chiuso (closed) sign.

One way to make planning easier is to use a ticket broker that specializes in booking museums and historic sites. Pierreci books visits to museums and guided tours to landmarks in the city (phone 06-390-8071 Monday-Friday 9 am-1 pm and 2-6 pm; http://www.pierreci.it). Ticketeria books tickets to museums and landmarks as well (phone 06-32810 Monday-Friday 9 am-6 pm, Saturday 9 am-1 pm; http://www.ticketeria.it). Whether you book by phone or over the Internet, get a confirmation number for your reservation and take it with you. You will be charged a booking fee, but it's worth it for the convenience.

The City of Rome has a wide selection of passes that offer discounts on admission to many of the most popular historic sites, museums and galleries. The Roma Pass is the most popular option: 25 euros gets you free admission to two sites (including the Colosseum, with the added benefit of getting to skip the long line), three-day public transportation passes and reduced rates at subsequent sites. Purchase passes at tourist offices, most participating museums and galleries or online at http://www.romapass.it.

Historic Sites
Arch of Constantine
On this triple triumphal arch immediately outside the Colosseum, sculptural friezes commemorate the first Christian emperor's important military victory over Maxentius in AD 312. Many of the sculptures and medallions were taken from earlier monuments. The arch stands at the west side of the Colosseum, where the piazza meets Via di San Gregorio VII. Excavations have uncovered parts of the early Flavian wall, which are visible from the piazza.

Basilica di San Clemente
This Irish Dominican church is a microcosm of Rome, with the many layers of Roman history visible in its structure. At street level is a 12th-century church with Renaissance and baroque additions. Below are excavations of a fourth-century basilica, atop a Roman house from Nero's era and a Mithraic temple from the first century BC. The church also has magnificent mosaics, frescoes and pavements. All in all, it illustrates the evolution of Christian art between the first and 19th centuries. The enclosed medieval courtyard is a quiet oasis from the roaring traffic outside. The church is open Monday-Saturday 9 am-12:30 pm and 3-6 pm, Sunday noon-6 pm. Enter the street-level church for free, but a visit to the lower levels costs 5 euros. Piazza di San Clemente on Via di San Giovanni (around the corner from the Colosseum), Rome. Phone 06-774-0021. http://www.basilicasanclemente.com.

Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano
Saint John Lateran holds the distinction of being Rome's cathedral, as well as the oldest of the city's four major basilicas. The church—said to have been founded in 313 by Emperor Constantine the Great—has, of course, been rebuilt many times over the centuries, but its fourth-century floor plan is still honored. As the Cathedral of the Bishop of Rome, the church contains the papal throne, and it ranks above all other churches—even above St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican.

Borromini is responsible for much of the interior visible today; the coffered, carved and painted ceiling and the Cosmati mosaic floors are spectacular. Outside, the octagonal baptistery dates from the fourth century. The famous Scala Sancta (sacred steps) are also at this piazza. Some, who still venerate it as the staircase from Pilate's house that Jesus ascended, climb it on their knees, praying at each step. All that remains of the 16th-century Lateran Palace, residence of the popes until 1377, is the staircase and the papal chapel, with precious 13th-century frescoes, at its top. The cloister, all that's left of the Benedictine monastery that serviced the basilica, is also open to the public.

The basilica is open daily 7 am-6:30 pm. The cloister is open 9 am-6 pm. The baptistery is open 7 am-12:30 pm and 4-7:30 pm. The Scala Sancta is open 6:15 am-noon and again 3-6:15 pm (3:30-6:45 pm April-September). Admission is free for the basilica and the Scala Sancta (although a donation is expected for those who wish to climb the sacred stairs on their knees), 2 euros for the cloister. Call for a guided tour, available Monday-Friday 9 am-1 pm. Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano (east of the Colosseum), Rome. Phone 06-6988-6392.

Basilica di San Pietro
As the spiritual center of the Catholic Church, St. Peter's is the ultimate destination for Catholic pilgrims, but it also draws visitors with its masterpieces of art and architecture. Most noticeable—at least from a distance—is the dome, designed by Michelangelo, which is the world's second largest. An outer shell protects the gold-encrusted interior dome. Between the shell and the dome is a spiraling walkway that guests can climb to the cupola, which overlooks Rome and Vatican City. Walk the whole way or take an elevator to the terrace, which is lined with statues of Jesus, the apostles and other saints. The tight, slanting stairway that ascends from there is not for the claustrophobic but definitely worth the effort.

Another Michelangelo masterpiece, the Pieta, lies behind bulletproof glass in the basilica. Perhaps appropriately for its subject matter, it seems quite small—just as most visitors feel in this massive structure. Also noteworthy are the tomb of Clement XIII by Canova—the sculpted lions almost roar—and a stunning mosaic by Giotto in the grottoes on the lower level.

Much of the artistic glory belongs to architect-sculptor Bernini: He designed the huge semicircular colonnades that surround the piazza in front of the basilica—they reach out like two arms to envelop visitors—and the gilt bronze baldachin, a canopy on tall pillars, which he placed over the papal altar. Don't miss his other works: the breathtaking Throne of St. Peter in Glory, with the Holy Spirit in the form of a dove surrounded by angels and gilded rays of light; the tabernacle made of gold, silver and lapis in the prayer room; the equestrian statue of Constantine to the right of the front portico; and the flamboyant monument to Pope Alexander VII—the skeleton as a symbol of death may be a bit much, but the marble "fabric" draped over it seems so real, you expect it to rustle.

Free English-language tours of the Basilica are offered Monday-Friday at 2:15 pm. Meet in the information office to the left of the Basilica; tours cannot be reserved, so it is advisable to arrive early. Alternatively, the audio guide is very helpful (available at the information desk to the right of the portico's entrance for 7 euros).

When the pope is in residence, he blesses the crowds in Piazza San Pietro at noon on Sunday. With a little planning, it's also possible to attend a papal audience, held Wednesday at 10:30 am in Piazza San Pietro (or in the Paul VI Audience Hall in the winter). Order free tickets in writing, well in advance (fax 06-6988-5863) for reserved seating. Pick up tickets at the Bronze Door, to the right of Basilica San Pietro. It is best to be in line two hours ahead of the audience to beat the school and tour groups. Standing-room-only access is open on a first-come, first-served basis and is rarely filled, except on special occasions such as Easter and Christmas. Contact your local Catholic priest for more information. The church remains closed during the audience.

Make a separate reservation to visit the Scavi, the excavations of a remarkably intact necropolis underneath St. Peter's. They contain a first-century street with tombs, including the possible burial place of St. Peter himself. The site lies below the basement crypt of the popes. Currently only a few 90-minute tours run each day, but it's worth trying to reserve a spot. Apply in person or in writing to the Ufficio Scavi at the Arco delle Campane (Arch of the Bells), to the left of the basilica. The Swiss Guards can direct visitors to the office, which is open Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm. Requests may also be faxed to 06-6987-3017. Tickets are 10 euros (children younger than 16 are not admitted). Phone 06-6988-5318 for more information (reservations cannot be made by phone).

The dress code for all indoor areas at the Vatican is strictly enforced: Both men and women must have their knees and shoulders covered (men should wear long pants). Switch off your mobile phones, and expect strict security controls (including metal detectors) and long lines. The basilica is open daily 7 am-7 pm (6 pm in winter). Mass is held by visiting priests Monday-Saturday at 8:30, 10 and 11 am, and noon and 5 pm, and on Sunday at 9, 10:30 and 11 am, and 12:15, 1, 4 and 5:45 pm. Admission to the basilica is free; ascending to the dome is 5 euros by foot or 7 euros for the elevator to the terrace. Piazza San Pietro (metro: Ottaviano-San Pietro), Rome. Phone 06-6988-3114 for the Prefettura. http://www.vatican.va.

Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere
This 12th-century church, built over a third-century basilica, is believed to be Rome's oldest dedicated Catholic Church (the first in which Mass was openly celebrated) and the first dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It has been adorned with stunning mosaics, 22 Ionic columns taken from the Terme di Caracalla, frescoes and entire chapels from several centuries. The medieval gold mosaic apse depicting the life of the Virgin is particularly impressive. Monday-Saturday 9 am-5:30 pm, Sunday and holidays 8:30-10:30 am and noon-5:30 pm. Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, Rome. Phone 06-581-4802. http://www.santamariaintrastevere.org.

Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
As one of Rome's four major basilicas, this one, between Piazza della Repubblica and Saint John Lateran, deserves a look. The original structure dates from the fourth century and is still very visible, but it has had many transformations and additions, including a glorious gold coffered ceiling (made with the first gold shipped over from the New World), 13th-century mosaics and two splendid chapels: Paolina (for Pope Paul V) and Sforza (designed by Michelangelo). It also houses Gian Lorenzo Bernini's tomb, located to the right near the altar. Daily 7 am-7 pm. Audio guide 4 euros. Via Liberiana 27 (at Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore), Rome. Phone 06-488-1094.

Castel Sant'Angelo
This round fortress rises over the banks of the Tiber, a cannonball's shot from the Vatican. Emperor Hadrian built it as his mausoleum between AD 135 and 139. Later it became a papal stronghold, linked since 1277 to the Vatican by a concealed passageway (the passetto) in the defensive walls. Strolling around its many levels, ages and stages—both dark and glorious—is fun and informative. The site also includes an interesting museum and a lovely park, which often hosts fairs and exhibitions. The fortifications are famous as the setting for the third act of Puccini's Tosca, in which the heroine throws herself over the parapet. Open daily except Monday 9 am-6:30 pm. Admission fee is 7.50 euros. Guided tours are available upon request. Lungotevere Castello 50, Rome. Phone 06-681-9111. http://www.castelsantangelo.com.

Catacombs of San Callisto
These five floors of intricate passageways were the first official cemetery of the Roman church between the second and eighth centuries. Guided tours include a look at early Christian frescoes and imagery (but no bones—the remains were either stolen or long since transferred to the Pantheon). Open daily except Wednesday 9 am-noon and 2-5 pm. Closed February. 8 euros. Via Appia Antica 110 (take Bus 218 from Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano, a 15-minute ride, or Bus 118 from Circo Massimo), Rome. Phone 06-5130-1580. http://www.catacombe.roma.it.

Chiesa di Santa Maria in Cosmedin
This basilica is famous for La Bocca della Verita (the Mouth of Truth). Once a Roman sewer cover, this huge marble disk is now embedded in the portico wall of the church. According to tradition, the mouth will bite off a liar's hand, but it's more likely that, in medieval times, a man with a sword on the other side helped the "miracle" along. The church itself is often overlooked, but its early medieval architecture, frescoes, mosaic floors and Masonic imagery are well worth a look. Daily 9:30 am-4:50 pm. Piazza della Bocca della Verita 18 (between the Circo Massimo and the Tiber), Rome. Phone 06-678-1419.

Chiesa di Santa Maria Sopra Minerva
Rome's only significant Gothic church (the facade dates from Renaissance times), this was built on top of a Roman temple to the goddess of wisdom. Inside, stunning lapis-and-gold ceiling mosaics glimmer between its intersecting Gothic arches. The interior shelters the tomb of St. Catherine of Siena and The Risen Christ statue by Michelangelo. Many other artistic treasures are difficult to see in the dim lighting, so take a couple of 0.50-euro coins for the timed lights (one coin buys one minute of visibility). Bernini's playful elephant sculpture, which holds up Rome's smallest obelisk, is the centerpiece of the piazza outside. Monday-Friday 7 am-7 pm, Saturday 7 am-1 pm and 3:30-7 pm, Sunday 8 am-1 pm and 3:30-7 pm. Piazza della Minerva (near the Pantheon), Rome. Phone 06-679-3926. http://www.basilicaminerva.it.

Chiesa di Sant'Andrea al Quirinale
After you've seen the splash Bernini made at St. Peter's, stop at this church to see what he could achieve on a smaller scale (Bernini considered it his only perfect work). It's an oval structure with the altar on the long side, close to every seat. The martyred St. Andrew, who appears in the painted altarpiece and in a stucco sculpture above it, seems to look up toward the symbol of the Holy Spirit. The daylight streaming through the clerestory windows plays off the gilding, making the dome glow. Open daily except Tuesday 8:30 am-noon and 3:30-7 pm, Sunday 9 am-noon and 4-7 pm (usually closed in August). Via del Quirinale 29, Rome. Phone 06-4890-3187.

Chiesa di Sant'Ignazio di Loyola
Jesuits commissioned this church at the height of the baroque period, but their funds were exhausted before the dome's completion. Instead, they painted the ceilings with striking trompe l'oeil, inducing centuries of neck-strain as visitors gape. Andrea Pozzo's Triumph of St. Ignatius is a triumph of light and perspective, creating a perfect two-dimensional impression of a dome. Daily 7:30 am-5:15 pm. Piazza de Sant'Ignazio on Via del Seminario, Rome. Phone 06-679-4406. http://www.chiesasantignazio.org.

Chiesa Santa Maria della Concezione de Cappuccini
Don't miss the church itself (which is technically called Santa Maria Immacolata), with its painting of St. Michael and the devil, but the big draw there is the adjoining crypts. The five rooms are filled with intricate ornamentation, mosaics and sculptures, all made with the bones of Capuchin friars who served the church over the centuries. It's a spooky but fascinating sight. Open daily except Thursday 9 am-noon and 3-6 pm. A voluntary contribution is requested (1 or 2 euros per person is adequate). Via Veneto 27, Rome. Phone 06-487-1185. http://www.cappucciniviaveneto.it.

Circo Massimo
The Circus Maximus was built in 600 BC. One of the largest structures ever dedicated to entertainment, it could hold an audience of 385,000. The long, oval field hosted chariot races and contests between gladiators and wild beasts. Today, with the exception of some crumbling ruins at the south end, all that remains is a large park—the ancient track now trod only by joggers and courting couples—so you'll have to use your imagination and recollections of Ben Hur to piece it back together. It is still occasionally used for large concerts and important political protests. The Palatine Hill provides an emperor's-eye view of the flower- and trash-strewn ruin. Between Palatine and Aventine hills, Rome.

Colosseo
Originally called the Flavian Amphitheater and the site of gladiatorial combat, the Colosseum is the most frequently evoked symbol of Rome. Begun in AD 72 by Emperor Vespasian, it was finished eight years later by his son Titus and could seat 80,000 spectators. Unfortunately, various popes quarried its marble, so this majestic building is more dilapidated than it should be. Even so, its size and history are still quite breathtaking. Plays, concerts and demonstrations are staged in and around the Colosseum throughout the year. Monday-Saturday 8:30 am-4 pm (last exit 5 pm). Tours in English (45 minutes long, five tours offered daily), audio tours and guided archaeological tours are available. 4 euros guided tour, 4.50 euros audio tour. Admission 12 euros (the same ticket gains you entrance to a small museum, as well as to the nearby Palatine Hill—save time by buying the ticket there), with an additional 1.50 euros for preregistration (skip the long line). At the southern end of Via dei Fori Imperiali, Rome. Phone 06-3996-7700.

Domus Aurea
This building collapsed during heavy rainful in 2007 and is closed for restoration indefinitely.

Emperor Nero had this enormous residence built after Rome burned in AD 64. Named for the precious metal used decoratively throughout the building, his "Golden House" once covered nearly one-third of the city, between the Caelian and Palatine hills, but only a portion of the structure remains. The frescoes in this palace, rediscovered in the Renaissance, helped inspire the grotesque style (from the Italian "grotto" or cave, because they were found underground). It is one of the finest early-Empire palaces still in existence. Viale della Domus Aurea, Rome. Phone 06-3996-7700.

Foro di Traiano
Trajan's Markets, Forum and Column are part of the Imperial forums, now separated from the Roman Forum by the intrusive Via dei Fori Imperiali. The unmistakable semicircular shape of the markets was determined by Quirinal Hill, which was cut away so that the emperor could build his complex near the Roman Forum. Trajan's Column marks the height of the original hill; its scrolling friezes tell of his victories over the Dacians (in modern-day Romania). Visitors are allowed to roam the ancient street of the forum. An exhibit hall inside the forum has regular art exhibits, many dealing with Imperial Rome. Nearby forums include the Forum of Nerva, the Forum of Julius Caesar and the Forum of Augustus. Open daily except Monday 9 am-7 pm. 6.50 euros, or 7.50 euros for reserved tickets. Online booking through http://www.ticketclic.it, or reservations by phone at 06-0608. Audio guide 3.50 euros. Via IV Novembre 94 (the entrance is north of the column), Rome. Phone 06-8205-9127. http://en.mercatiditraiano.it.

Foro Romano
Once the political and religious epicenter of the Western world, the Forum today appears as fragmented columns and ancient streets. However, even in ruins, it's a testament to Roman and, indeed, all Western civilization. The best view is from the Capitoline at night, thanks to the skillfully placed lighting. Within the Forum are the Sacred Way, the Via Trionfale (an avenue where victorious generals paraded with their soldiers and prisoners) and the ancient Senate House, among a great clutter of basilicas, temples, monuments, arches and stray cats. On the south side of the Forum is the Palatine Museum. The ruins are open daily 9 am until one hour before sunset. One-hour tours in English are offered daily at 11 am for 4 euros; audio tours are available for 4 euros. Nightly tours are offered June to mid-September (check dates at the information desks and ask for "Roma sotto stelle," or "Rome under the stars"). Combination ticket with the Palatino and the Colosseum 12 euros. Largo Romolo e Remo and Via dei Foro Imperiali, Rome. Phone 06-3996-7700. http://www.capitolium.org.

Palatino Hill and Museo
The Palatine Hill was the site of aristocratic residences for centuries. Among the ruins of private palaces, such as the Domus Augustana and the House of Livia, a garden offers shady nooks and spectacular views of the Circus Maximus below. The little museum at the top houses mainly local archaeological finds. A vaulted cavern, discovered in November 2007 when a camera was lowered through a hole in the hill, is believed by some scientists to be a shrine of the Lupercale, the sacred cave where Romulus and Remus are said to have been suckled by a wolf. Daily 8:30 am-6:15 pm. A one-hour English tour departs at noon (4 euros). Admission of 12 euros also applies to the Colosseum and the Forum (the ticket kiosk lines are usually shorter at Palatine Hill). Via di San Gregario 30 (near the Arch of Titus in the forum), Rome. Phone 06-3996-7700. http://www.capitolium.org.

Piazza del Campidoglio
The historic, spiritual and political center of the city, this hilltop was long known as caput mundi, the head of the world. On this spot, Petrarch was crowned poet laureate, Cola di Rienzo was lynched and, according to legend, Romulus killed his brother Remus. The founding twins are commemorated in a happier moment: A bronze statue shows them as foundling infants suckling a she-wolf (this mythological image is the city's crest). The star in the center of the plaza is the point from which distances to Rome are measured.

Michelangelo designed the current piazza and its monumental approach in 1536, although he only lived long enough to see the Cordonata staircase finished. Many consider the site to be the ideal embodiment of Renaissance architecture, blended with elements of ancient Rome. Guarding the entrance to the piazza are gigantic statues of Castor and Pollux. The circular star set in the pavement focuses attention on the gilded bronze equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius (a copy—the adjacent Capitoline Museums display the original). From the church perched above the piazza, Santa Maria in Ara Coeli, you can get a good view of Rome, and on the road to the right (south) side of the piazza, you'll find one of the best views of the Forum. The plaza also houses the Musei Capitolini. On Capitoline Hill (behind Piazza Venezia and the Vittoriano Monument), Rome. http://www.capitolium.org.

Piazza del Popolo
This vast, well-designed square greeted 18th-century travelers from the north, together with the Porto del Popolo (the arched gateway leading into the piazza). Today, it borders a popular shopping area. Three major arteries extend from the piazza, giving the area its name, the Tridente. An Egyptian obelisk and a lion fountain stand in the piazza's center. At one end are two baroque churches that seem to match, though a close inspection reveals one to have a round dome and the other, oval. At the other end is a third church, Santa Maria del Popolo, which contains masterpieces representing the full range of the Renaissance: frescoes by Pinturicchio, two remarkable paintings by Caravaggio and the dramatic marble statue Daniel and the Lion, by Bernini. North of the Spanish Steps, near Villa Borghese, Rome.

Piazza Navona
Once the Emperor Domitian's athletic stadium, this lively piazza retains its distinctive shape. Terra-cotta and ocher-stucco buildings flank Borromini's baroque church dedicated to St. Agnes, whose skull is displayed in a small chapel in the back (open Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-12:30 pm and 4-7 pm, Sunday 10 am-1 pm and 4-8 pm). The star attraction, however, is Bernini's legendary Fountain of the Four Rivers, with its colossal marble figures—representing the Danube, the Nile, the Ganges and the Rio de la Plata—that writhe and twist, and his Fountain of the Moor. A third fountain has a 19th-century rendering of Neptune. The ancient Romans flooded the square and held mock naval battles there. Today, the Piazza Navona is drier but still entertaining: It's the perfect spot for eating gelato, drinking a negrito (a typical Roman cocktail) and people-watching. Street artists, clowns, toy peddlers and vendors crowd the cobblestones. During the Christmas season, there's a fair with numerous stalls dedicated to La Befana, the Italian Christmas witch. Just west of the Pantheon, Rome.

Piazza Venezia and the Vittoriano
This huge, bustling square unites the city's main arteries. The traffic jam is framed by Palazzo Venezia (from the balcony, Mussolini harangued the crowds below), Palazzo San Marco and the much-maligned Vittoriano Monument. Because the city is building a third underground line among the buried ruins, you are likely to encounter construction in and around the piazza. The Piazza Venezia subway station is scheduled to open by 2015 and will house many Roman artifacts found during the construction. The multistoried memorial to the Unknown Soldier and Italy's first king, Vittorio Emanuele II (inaugurated in 1911), houses a museum of the Risorgimento—the Italian unification movement. Popularly known as the Wedding Cake, the frilly marble edifice is open to the public. The higher levels and cafe terrace offer great views of the city (considered the best—they're the only vistas that don't include the Vittoriano itself). Near the cafe is the entrance to a glass elevator takes visitors to the highest rooftop for an even better view. A tourist information office is housed around the left side (as you face the front of the monument). Daily 9:30 am-6 pm. Free. Elevator 7 euros. At the south end of Via del Corso, just north of the Roman Forum, Rome. http://www.ambienterm.arti.beniculturali.it/vittoriano.

Spanish Steps and the Piazza di Spagna
The piazza is the heart of Rome's most fashionable shopping area, familiar to residents and visitors alike because of its grand and distinctive steps. They're a great—if crowded—place to rest and watch street musicians, vendors, lovers and other tourists. Young people gather there to see and be seen, chatting in groups or on their ubiquitous telefonini (cell phones). The spectacle is most impressive in spring, when brilliant azaleas line the steps. At the base sits a fountain by Bernini (father and son), and the house (now museum) of 19th-century poet John Keats overlooks the steps. At the top there's a grand view of the city and just to the right, you will find Palazzetto Zuccari (Via Gregoriana 28), known as The House of Monsters because of the sculptures that adorn the facade. The Piazza is found south of Piazza del Popolo, at the southern cusp of Villa Borghese, Rome.

Terme di Caracalla
The ruins of these baths evoke the majesty of ancient times, when Romans bathed, lifted weights, wrestled, had massages and socialized there in baths and saunas. Guided tours explain the extensive, sophisticated heating and plumbing systems, as well as the social function of the vast complex. Call to make a reservation. You can also wander through the beautiful gardens surrounding the ruins. Open Monday 9 am-2 pm, Tuesday-Sunday 9 am-5 pm. The ticket office shuts down an hour before closing. A ticket costs 6 euros and is valid for seven days. An audio guide is available for 4 euros. Viale delle Terme di Caracalla 52, Rome. Phone 06-5730-1976.

The Pantheon
This monumental round temple was dedicated to all the Roman gods. It is considered the best-preserved ancient structure in the city. Rebuilt in the second century AD by Emperor Hadrian, it has the largest (unreinforced) concrete dome ever built, spanning more than 142 ft/43 m in width and height—a perfect sphere in a cylinder with walls nearly 20 ft/6 m thick. Sunlight pours through the oculus in the center of the dome, casting a spotlight against the dome. Hadrian only entered the building when the spotlight was cast on the entrance. (When a light rain falls, the effect can be equally enchanting; some visitors claim they've seen a rainbow inside.)

Barbarians took the bronze tiles that originally lined the dome. However, it was Pope Barberini who authorized Bernini to remove the massive bronze bas-relief from the portico. Melted down, it became St. Peter's baldachin. The painter Raphael and the first king of Italy, Vittorio Emanuele II, are buried inside, along with hundreds of early Christian martyrs whose remains were transferred from the catacombs in the seventh century, when the pagan temple was dedicated as a church, Santa Maria ad Martyres. The Pantheon is under construction through January 2011; it is still open to visitors. Open Monday-Saturday 9 am-7:30 pm, Sunday 8:30 am-6 pm, holidays 9 am-1 pm. Masses are usually held Saturday at 5 pm and Sunday at 10:30 am. Free. Piazza della Rotonda 1, Rome. Phone 06-6830-0230.

Trevi Fountain
The iconic, highly theatrical fountain is usually thronged with tourist groups repeating the tradition inspired by the 1954 film Three Coins in the Fountain, of throwing in a coin before leaving Rome. Turn your back to the fountain, toss a coin over your left shoulder into the water, and your return to the city is assured. Even with the crowds, you should get a good view of the mighty god Neptune riding his winged chariot through gushing waters supplied by the ancient Acqua Vergine aqueduct. Watch out for pickpockets, though. Nicely illuminated at night. Two blocks east of the Corso and Piazza Colonna, Rome.

Museums
Centrale Montemartini
One of the most peculiar of all of Rome's museums, this old electric plant outside the city center now houses sculptures from the Musei Capitolini set against restored machinery that was used in early electrical production. The effect is superb, pitting stark white marble statues against massive, shiny, blue-and-black machinery. Open daily except Monday 9 am-7 pm. Admission 4.50 euros, plus 1.50 euros for exhibitions. A combination ticket to Musei Capitolini is 8.50 euros. Via Ostiense 106 (Piramade), Rome. Phone 06-0608. http://en.centralemontemartini.org.

Explora-Il Museo dei Bambini di Roma
While it pales in comparison to children's museums in other parts of the world, Rome's only children's museum does offer enough interesting exhibits for the kids to make it a worthwhile trade-off to a day of dragging them through adult museums. The venue is divided into four areas—there are hands-on exhibits dealing with the body, society, nature and communication. Most exhibits are in Italian, but the language is simple enough for non-speakers to understand. Open daily except Monday. Ticket office is open 9:30 am-7:30 pm. Visits are planned to last an hour and 45 minutes, with starting times of 10 am, noon, and 3 and 5 pm. Reservations recommended. Admission 7 euros adults and children age 4 and older, 3 euros children ages 1-3. On Thursday afternoon, children's tickets are reduced to 6 euros. Via Flaminia 82 (Villa Borghese), Rome. Phone 06-361-3776. http://www.mdbr.it.

Galleria Doria Pamphilj
This museum, located in the sumptuous Doria Pamphilj family home, contains works by such greats as Caravaggio, Titian, Raphael and Velasquez. Daily 10 am-5 pm, last entrance at 4:15 pm. Admission 9.50 euros, which includes an audio guide. Via Corso 305, Rome. Phone 06-679-7323. http://www.dopart.it.

Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna
This museum has a collection of works by the most important Italian artists of the 19th and 20th centuries—neoclassicists, futurists, surrealists, cubists and pop artists. The futurist collection is particularly impressive, and the fascist art is as chilling as it is fascinating. Works by non-Italians include notable paintings by Gustav Klimt. Open daily except Monday 8:30 am-7:30 pm. Last admission 6:45 pm. 10 euros. Audio guide 4 euros. Viale delle Belle Arti 131 (in Villa Borghese), Rome. Phone 06-322-981 for information. http://www.gnam.beniculturali.it.

Keats-Shelley Memorial House and Museum
More than 8,000 books, letters and related works of John Keats, Percy Shelley, George Gordon (Lord Byron) and their contemporaries are on display, including the rather haunting death mask of Keats, who was only 25 when he died of tuberculosis. Open Monday-Friday 10 am-1 pm and 2-6 pm, Saturday 11 am-2 pm and 3-6 pm. 4 euros. Guided tours available upon request. Piazza di Spagna 26 (entrance at the right at the foot of the Spanish Steps), Rome. Phone 06-678-4235. http://www.keats-shelley-house.org.

Musei Capitolini
The renovated palaces framing Piazza del Campidoglio house the Capitoline Museums. The Palazzo dei Conservatori contains paintings by Titian, Paolo Veronese, Peter Paul Rubens and Michelangelo da Caravaggio, as well as fragments of a colossal statue of Constantine and the original of the bronze statue of Marcus Aurelius that crowns the Piazza del Campidoglio outside. The Palazzo Nuovo houses outstanding Roman sculpture, including the Capitoline Brutus, the Dying Gaul and the Capitoline Venus. The museums flank the Palazzo Senatorio, which was built over the ancient Tabularium and used to store government records in imperial Rome. Michelangelo designed its double staircase. The terrace bar and restaurant overlooking the piazza are popular evening spots. Open daily except Monday 9 am-8 pm. Last admission 7 pm. Around the Christmas and New Year's holidays, the hours are reduced to 9 am-2 pm. Admission 6.50 euros (to all three buildings), plus 1.50 euros for temporary exhibits. Audio tour 5 euros. Combination ticket with Centrale Montemartini costs 8.50 euros. Audio guide for both museums 6.20 euros. The museum is free on the last Sunday of each month. Piazza del Campidoglio, Rome. Phone 06-0608. http://www.museicapitolini.org.

Musei Vaticani
The Vatican's extensive and awe-inspiring collection of art is housed in several museums, nearly two dozen galleries and period rooms and, of course, the Sistine Chapel. The huge collections are so spread out, it's impossible to see everything in one visit. You could take several days to appreciate just the Hellenistic and Roman sculpture, and the excellent Egyptian collection.

The Sistine Chapel is the obligatory highlight of a tour through the Vatican Museums: The restored frescoes are glorious. Opera glasses or binoculars can help reveal the details of Michelangelo's famous ceiling. The themes—drawn from the Bible, pagan prophecy and church history—generate what many consider the greatest pictorial decoration in Western art. (Be aware that video recorders and cameras are not allowed in the Sistine Chapel, and the guards strictly enforce a no-talking rule.) Visitors can skip all the other art and go directly to the Chapel, but they must leave the museums afterward. Re-entry requires another ticket—and the lines into the Vatican Museums are bad enough to tackle even once a day.

Time permitting, press on to other important sights: the Raphael rooms, filled with the painter's frescoes in religious themes; the Borgia apartments, with their rich frescoes; the chapels; and the Pio Clementino Museum, where you'll find the famous Apollo Belvedere and Laocoon sculptures.

If you have the stamina—or, better yet, on another visit—inspect the Greek, Roman and Egyptian rooms; the Pinacoteca, which is filled with paintings from the 12th-19th centuries; the cartographic hall, which is lined with historical mural maps of regions of Italy; the hall of busts, which is lined with statues of emperors and other Romans of note; the rooms of contemporary art—including works with religious themes by Van Gogh, Monet and Rodin, as well as a set of spectacular liturgical vestments by Matisse; the ethnographic museum; and the collection of historic carriages.

The ticket counter also books two-hour tours of the Vatican Gardens. Admission 31 euros (includes the Vatican Museums). To book, look for the window marked "Garden Guided Tours" or reserve online, at least 24 hours ahead.

The museum complex has a snack bar, serving pastry and pizza, and a cafeteria with reasonably priced meals. Note that the museum coat check may store only very large backpacks, not coats, jackets, umbrellas or smaller bags.

The best time to visit the museums is early in the morning, especially on Wednesday when many pilgrims are in St. Peter's Square attending the papal audience. The worst time to visit, as far as crowds go, is on the last Sunday of the month, when admission is free.

The Vatican Museums are open Monday-Saturday 9 am-6 pm (last admission 4 pm). Admission 15 euros. Audio guide 6 euros. Free admission the last Sunday of each month, 9 am-12:30 pm; the museums close for the rest of the day. Tickets can be purchased online, allowing you to skip the line. Viale Vaticano 8 (follow the Vatican walls from St. Peter's, but keep in mind this is a 0.5-mi-/1-km-long walk; the closest metro stop is Cipro-Musei Vaticani), Vatican City. Phone 06-6988-3145. http://mv.vatican.va/3_EN/pages/MV_Musei.html.

Museo della Civilta Romana
This museum depicts the history of Roman civilization through dioramas, plastic models and special exhibits—ideal for children. It's on the south side of the city where there isn't much else to do, but the 1:250 scale model of Imperial Rome makes the trip worthwhile. Open daily except Monday 9 am-2 pm (Sunday till 1:30 pm). The ticket office closes one hour earlier. 8.50 euros adults, 6.50 euros for children. Piazza G. Agnelli 10 (in the EUR corporate district), Rome. Phone 06-592-6041. http://en.museociviltaromana.it.

Museo dell'Ara Pacis
People either love or hate American architect Richard Meier's stark museum around Rome's "peace altar" next to the Augustus mausoleum along the Tiber River. When the project was finished in 2007, most Romans likened it to a space-age gas station set among some of the city's most beautiful landmarks. But the venue has evolved since its tumultuous opening and is now home to some of Rome's most important exhibits. Designer Valentino held his 40 Years of Style show there and a host of exhibits are scheduled for coming seasons.

The altar itself was dedicated by Augustus in 9 BC. It was eventually destroyed and its tiny pieces scattered across the city of Rome. Efforts began in the 16th century to rebuild the altar after many of its fragments were found in excavations throughout the city. The renovation was completed in 1938. Open daily except Monday 9 am-7 pm. Ticket office closes at 6 pm. Admission 6.50 euros. Audio guide 3.50 euros. Via Ripetta (Lungotevere di Augusta), Rome. Phone 06-3211-1605. http://en.arapacis.it.

Museo delle Mura
The Museum of the Walls is small, but mighty. Located in the gate of the Aurelian Wall at Via Appia Antica (Porta San Sebastiano), it allows visitors to see the fortifications inside and out. A small collection of artifacts, information and diagrams exists, but the real draw is walking a portion of the actual wall. Daily except Monday 9 am-2 pm. The ticket office closes 30 minutes earlier. 3 euros, plus 1.50 euros for exhibitions. Via di Porta San Sebastiano 18, Rome. Phone 06-7047-5284. http://en.museodellemuraroma.it.

Museo e Galleria Borghese
This jewel box of a gallery is a must-see. It offers a feast of Bernini sculptures, from David—the biblical lad biting his lip as he gets ready to hurl the stone—to Apollo and Daphne—the wood nymph morphing into a laurel tree. Equally beautiful is Canova's reclining Pauline Bonaparte, Napoleon's sister, who caused a scandal when she agreed to pose in the nude. Dozens of other sculptures, along with paintings and ceiling frescoes, will mesmerize you on the first floor. Upstairs, in the picture gallery, are masterpieces by Titian, Raphael and Michelangelo da Caravaggio (including his famous Bacchus and the hauntingly dark St. Jerome).

Keep your ticket handy—visitors must exit the building and re-enter to go upstairs—and also be quick: Visits are limited to two hours, which will fly by quickly. You may want to plan several visits to appreciate this collection in its entirety. Open daily except Monday 9 am-7 pm. Tickets have assigned entry times every two hours starting at opening time, with the last entry two hours before closing. 8.50 euros. Advance reservations are required. An audio guide is 5 euros. Guided tours in English are offered at 9:10 am and 11:10 pm for 6 euros, or at other times by appointment for groups of at least 10. Piazzale del Museo Borghese 5 (at the east corner of Villa Borghese, near the Via Veneto exit from the Spagna metro stop), Rome. Phone 06-328-10 to book reservations, or go online. http://www.galleriaborghese.it.

Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa Giulia
The country's best-preserved Etruscan ruins all end up in the Villa Giulia, which was, until the late 19th century, a decadent papal palace. The museum is divided by geographical area, with detailed maps of ancient Etruria and multilanguage signs providing significant historical information about this pre-Roman era. Many pieces date back to the 6th century BC. Villa Giulia also houses many artifacts that have been recovered from American museums, whose curators years ago bought the pieces from tomb raiders who pilfered Italy's best Etruscan sites. Open daily except Monday 8:30 am-7:30 pm. 4.50 euros. Piazzale di Villa Giulia 9 (Villa Borghese), Rome. Phone 06-320-1951. http://en.villaborghese.it.

Museo Nazionale Palazzo Altemps
Part of the Museo Nazionale Romano, this museum houses the Ludovisi, Mattei and Altemps families' art collections, including many ancient sculptures. The 15th-century palace, with its frescoes and painted ceilings, is a gem of the Roman Renaissance. The palace is also a venue for evening concerts in the summer. The terrace cafe is a perfect lunch spot during the summer months. Daily except Monday 9 am-7:45 pm. Ticket office closes at 6:45 pm. 7 euros; valid 3 days, includes admission to Crypta Balbi, Palazzo Massimo alle Terme and Terme di Diocleziano. An additional 3 euros is charged when there are exhibitions. An audio guide is available for 4 euros. Piazza Sant'Apollinare 44, Rome. Phone 06-3996-7700. http://archeoroma.beniculturali.it/it/node/115.

Museo Nazionale Romano—Crypta Balbi
This archaeological gem peels back Rome's layers. The crypta (lobby) of the Teatro di Balbi has multimedia displays explaining the rising tide of history. Best of all, the ruins are interleaved with Plexiglas, demonstrating what excavators actually find (rather than what they putty together). Open daily except Monday 9 am-5 pm. 7 euros; valid 3 days, includes admission to Terme di Diocleziano, Palazzo Altemps and Palazzo Massimo alle Terme. Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, Rome. Phone 06-378-0137 or 06-3996-7700. http://archeoroma.beniculturali.it/it/node/98.

Palazzo Barberini
Two rival baroque architects and sculptors, Bernini and Borromini, worked on this grand residence, which now shelters the Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Antica. Much of the building is undergoing restoration, so the collection of more than 1,500 paintings from the 12th to the 18th centuries is shown in rotation. You may see gems by Michelangelo da Caravaggio, Titian and Jacopo Tintoretto or the portrait of Henry VIII by Hans Holbein—but then again, you may not. You almost certainly will see the spectacular baroque ceiling fresco by Pietro da Cortona and the finest collection of El Greco's work outside of the Prado. Only a limited number of people can enter the palazzo each day, so make reservations. Open daily except Monday 9 am-7:30 pm. 5 euros. Reservation fee 1 euro. Via delle Quattro Fontane 13 (metro: Barberini), Rome. Phone 06-482-4184. For guided tours, call 06-2258-2493. http://www.galleriaborghese.it/barberini/en/einfo.htm.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
Part of the Museo Nazionale Romano, this restored palace displays a number of Roman paintings, coins, bronze statues, marble busts, floor mosaics and an entire frescoed room from Villa Livia. Open daily except Monday 9 am-7:45 pm. 7 euros; valid 3 days, includes admission to Terme di Diocleziano, Palazzo Altemps and Crypta Balbi. Call for reservations and to ask about guided tours. Largo di Villa Peretti 1 (across Piazza dei Cinquecento from the Terme di Diocleziano), Rome. Phone 06-3996-7700. http://archeoroma.beniculturali.it.

Terme di Diocleziano
These ancient Roman baths, part of the Museo Nazionale Romano, house an impressive collection of ancient Roman mosaics, coins, artifacts and statues. Open daily except Monday 9 am-7:45 pm. Ticket office closes at 7 pm. 7 euros; valid 3 days, includes admission to Palazzo Massimo alle Terme, Palazzo Altemps and Crypta Balbi. Entrance fee may vary when there are special exhibitions. Viale E. de Nicola 78 (at the Piazza dei Cinquecento), Rome. Phone 06-3996-7700. http://archeoroma.beniculturali.it.

Neighborhoods & Districts
Campo Marzio
This part of the historic center contains much that is great about Rome: the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, Campo di Fiori and Via Giulia. Bordered by the Vatican and the Tiber to the west, it's a dense cluster of ruins, churches, monuments, squares, alleys and shops. Rich in sights, much of the area is not the best option for dining ("tourist menus" and solicitors are common, as well as high tariffs for cafe seats). The best bets are on small side streets.

Jewish Ghetto
This neighborhood—tucked between Via Arenula and Via del Teatro di Marcello and bordered by Largo Argentina—was historically the ghetto of the Roman Jews. Today, its winding narrow streets retain more of the flavor of medieval Rome than any other part of the city. It also has a stunning synagogue on the bank of the Tiber, the best kosher Italian restaurants in the world (along Via del Portico d'Ottavia) and some of the trendiest nightspots in Rome.

L'Aventino
One of the seven hills on which Rome was founded is now one of the city center's most cosmopolitan residential areas, with fabulous villas and lush gardens. Legend says that Romulus chose the Palatine hill and his twin Remus chose the Aventine hill. Peek through the keyhole at the door to the Knights of Malta to see a perfect view of the dome of St. Peter's basilica, or catch a panoramic view of Trastevere from one of several lookout points. The neighborhood is a great place to stroll during the springtime when the scents of orange blossoms from Giardino degli Aranci and fresh roses from Roseto Comunale rose gardens offer a dizzying olfactory experience.

Monti
Ancient Rome's shantytown (Suburra) is now gentrifying under the design of artists and hipsters. Ethnic restaurants, galleries, bars and funky shops flank its narrow alleys. The area stretches east from the Forum between Via Nazionale and Cavour.

Parioli
Sheep pastures were interspersed among the medieval and Renaissance buildings in this area at the beginning of the 20th century. Now it's one of the most expensive and cosmopolitan suburban areas of Rome. Many foreign embassies and consulates are located there, along with some very fine restaurants. It lies just north of Villa Borghese and west of La Sapienza (Rome's central university).

Trastevere
Literally meaning "across the Tiber," this was Rome's first suburb, and many residents insist it's the "real" Rome. The district is a thriving tangle of charming medieval streets, vibrant outdoor restaurants and trattorias, intimate bars and cafes. Trastevere is home to an array of galleries and artisans' shops, plus the large Sunday flea market, Porta Portese. The Church of Santa Maria dominates the piazza of the same name. The steps of the central fountain there are a good place to watch the area's colorful characters. To the west rises the Gianicolo Hill, which offers magnificent views from a ridgeline park.

Parks & Gardens
Gianicolo (Janiculum Hill)
This long, thin hill near the west bank of the Tiber River has wonderful views—it's the highest spot in the city. To get there from the Centro Storico—a steep but pleasant walk—cross the river on Ponte Sisto and climb Via Garibaldi. At the top is an equestrian statue of Giuseppe Garibaldi and, farther north, another of his wife, Anita, on a rearing horse, brandishing a baby and a gun. The lovely Passeggiata del Gianicolo is lined with other statues of national heroes. Every day at noon, a cannon (a howitzer, no less) is fired from below the Garibaldi statue. On the hill between Piazza San Pietro and the Trastevere neighborhood.

Orto Botanico
Rome's botanic gardens are near the center of town, and their easy access makes them a relaxing break in what may be an otherwise crowded tourist schedule. They contain a wide variety of palms, a lovely terraced rose garden, enchanting stands of bamboo and a Japanese garden complete with pagoda. The gardens occupy part of Queen Christina of Sweden's former villa, of which there are a few deteriorated reminders: Look for the fragment of a monumental staircase next to a grand, 350-year-old plane tree. Also of interest is a small garden for the blind with plants noted for their distinctive aromas and textures. Open Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-6:30 pm; closed August. 4 euros. Largo Cristina di Svezia 24 (between the Gianicolo and the Tiber), Rome. Phone 06-4991-7107. http://www.ips.it/musis/muort_f0.html.

Roseto Comunale
Covering 2.5 acres/1 hectare of land between the Aventine and Palatine hills, Rome's communal rose gardens are among the best in Europe. Moer than 1,200 varieties of ancient, botanical and modern roses are divided into two sections—one for competition and another for collection. The gardens, which were built on the site of an old Jewish cemetery, are laid out in the shape of a candelabrum. Open daily 8 am-7:30 pm in May and June. Free. Via di Valle Murcia (Aventino), Rome. Phone 06-574-6810 to arrange a guided tour.

Villa Borghese
This large, peaceful city park has several museums, leafy walks, statuary, an artificial lake, stands of impressive umbrella pines and Rome's zoo, called Bioparco. Several foreign academies dot its boulevards. The park is a welcome reprieve from the noise and heat of the city. It's a favorite spot for strolling, jogging and walking dogs. In-line skates, go-karts and electric golf carts can all be rented there, usually near the main street that leads to the Pincio Gardens, which include the famous water clock and a fabulous view of Piazza del Popolo and St. Peter's Basilica in the distance (one the most famous spots in Rome to admire a summer sunset). In the triangle formed by Piazza di Spagna, Piazza del Popolo and Via Veneto.

Villa Doria Pamphilj
This large park is one of the best places for exercising or relaxing, and it is especially popular with joggers, although it can get crowded on Sunday afternoons. Each turn and corner offers a glimpse of a delightful garden, fountain or cluster of statues. A beautiful villa and private garden stand in the center of the park. South of the Vatican and west of Gianicolo: Enter through the gates near Porta San Pancrazio.

Recreation
Rome's mild climate permits year-round outdoor activity, but the city's recreational pickings are pretty slim. City parks, especially Villa Borghese, are the best spots for walking, running, in-line skating or biking. Tennis and golf are a bit more challenging: They're relatively expensive and inaccessible.

Out of the city, Lago Bracciano and the coastal town of Lido di Ostia are two good spots for watersports, and the thermal spa Terme dei Papi in Viterbo is a favorite getaway for Romans. On Sunday, Via Appia Antica is closed to traffic, and the Appia Antica Park becomes a wonderful place to picnic, stroll among the monuments and bike.

Bicycling
Rome has several cycling options, including the 9-mi/15-km track that runs from Ponte Castel Giubileo to Ponte Risorgimento at its south end. Some paths wind from Ponte Risorgimento through Villa Borghese, Villa Borghese to Villa Ada and, south of Rome, from Ponte Sublico to Ponte della Magliana. Another trail flanks the Tiber River, from Ponte Milvio to Prati, though potholes and debris can make this route challenging.

It is also pleasant to tour the city center on Sunday, when it's closed to automobile traffic. For a surcharge of 40 euros, bicycles are welcome on any regionale or diretto train (but not on the faster intercity or Eurostar trains), providing an excellent way to enjoy the Castelli villages near Rome, or Lago Bracciano to the north.

Bike rentals are available at different points across the city and within Villa Borghese Park. A good deal is found around the midpoint of the Via del Corso, near Largo San Carlo al Corso and Largo dei Lombardi: 3 euros per hour or 10 euros for the day. Along the Appia Antica, bike rental companies cluster around the Sede il Parco (Park Seat), which itself charges 10 euros per day or 3 euros per hour for the first three hours. Get there early for children's models. Daily 9:30 am-4:30 pm (5:30 pm in summer). Phone 06-513-5316.

To the east is the Largo Tacchi Venturi, Comitato per la Caffarella, which charges 10 euros per day or 3 euros per hour for the first three hours. Open Saturday and Sunday 10 am-4:30 pm (6 pm in summer). Phone 06-789-279. The same prices apply at the Catacombe di San Sebastiano, located to the south and open March-October Monday-Saturday 9 am-noon and 2-5 pm. Phone 06-785-0350. Baci & Bici
Located near Termini Station, this rental company allows you to reserve bicycles and scooters online. Bicycles 4 euros per hour or 11 euros for the day. Scooters start at 6 euros per hour. Via del Viminale 5, Rome. Phone 06-482-8443. http://www.bicibaci.com.

Roma 'n Bike
This pay-as-you-go self-service rental is the best biking deal downtown; it has 19 pick-up and drop-off points around the city center. Cost is 0.50 euros every 30 minutes. Purchase a bike-sharing card at ticket offices at the Lepanto, Spagna and Termini stops on the Metro A line, Monday-Saturday 7 am-8 pm, Sunday and holidays 8 am-8 pm. Drop off the bike at any of the parking stations. Phone 06-57003. http://atac-bikesharing.it.

Boating & Sailing
Battelli di Roma
This public-transport and tourist boat service is reviving the much-neglected Tiber, which winds through the city center. One vessel hosts tours and a dinner cruise. The other, with eight stops, is an ideal way to avoid rush-hour traffic. The boats depart from the pier at Sant'Angelo Bridge, in front of the castle. First departure is at 10 am, and the last departure is at 6:30 pm. Boats leave Isola Tiburina starting at 10:10 am; the last boat leaves at 6:10 pm. The tour has onboard commentary and lasts approximately one hour. The dinner cruise is for about two hours and departs from Sant'Angelo Bridge at 9 pm Thursday, Friday and Saturday mid-March to mid-November. Mid-November to mid-March the tour is offered on Friday and Saturday only. Tour: 15 euros adults, free for children younger than 5. Dinner cruise: 54 euros adults, 30 euros for children younger than 12. Via Tribuna di Tor De' Specchi 18a, Rome. Phone 06-9774-5498 for reservations. http://www.battellidiroma.it.

Golf
Golf courses aren't very accessible from Rome. Without a car and a good map, don't bother trying to find one. Be prepared to spend some time in traffic en route. Unless you're staying at a hotel adjoining the course, take along your home club membership card.
Circolo Golf di Roma
Roman pines and cypresses dot this pastoral setting along the Appian Way. The 18-hole course dates back to 1903. Home membership card required. Daily except Monday 8 am-8 pm. Greens fees for foreign guests are 100 euros Tuesday-Friday. Closed to nonmembers Saturday and Sunday. Golf cart 8 euros. Via Appia Nuova 716A, Rome. Phone 06-780-3407. http://www.golfroma.it.

Olgiata Golf Club
Amenities include a putting green, pro shop, bar, restaurant and swimming pool. The 18-hole course is outside the ring road, en route to Viterbo, so be prepared for a drive. Home membership card required. Daily 8 am-midnight. Greens fees are 80 euros Monday-Friday, 160 euros Saturday, Sunday and holidays. Largo Olgiata 15, Rome. Phone 06-3088-9141. http://www.olgiatagolfclub.it.

Sheraton Golf
This 18-hole, par-72 course is connected to the Starwood hotel called Parco de' Medici. Home membership card required. Daily except Tuesday 8 am-7 pm. Greens fees are 60 euros on weekdays and 85 euros on Saturday and Sunday. Golf clubs are available for rent: A full set costs 30 euros, a half-set is 15 euros. Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 39, Rome. Phone 06-65288. http://www.starwoodhotels.com.

Hiking & Walking
The parks Villa Borghese, Villa Pamphilj and Villa Ada (off Via Salaria) are good for in-town walks. More invigorating hikes, however, are outside the city. The lakes just north of Rome are great for hiking and are easy to reach by train.

Tiny Lago di Vico, surrounded by a nature preserve, is a good choice. Also nearby is the Riserva Statale Naturale del Litorale Romano (State Nature Reserve of the Roman Coast), a protected stretch of coastline that includes the pinewoods of Castel Fusano, where you can hike (or bike or ride horses) among pines, junipers and sand dunes. The area is just south of Lido di Ostia. Open Monday and Saturday 9:30 am-12:30 pm, Wednesday and Friday 9:30 am-12:30 pm and 3-6 pm. http://www.riservalitoraleromano.it.

Horseback Riding
The Gianicolo and Pincio parks both offer miniature-pony rides. Circolo Ippico Acqua Santa
Welcomes riders at Appia Antica Park. Centered on a 1904 manor hotel and holiday farm, the club has steeplechase fields, a pony club, jumping school and courses on equine therapy. Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm, Sunday 8 am-12:30 pm. Reservations required. Lessons are 20 euros per half-hour. Via di Vallericcia, Rome. Phone 06-7128-9148. http://www.circoloippicoacquasanta.it.

Maneggio Cavalieri dell'Appia Antica
Adults and children alike can trot there. Open Wednesday-Sunday, 9 am-1 pm and 3-6 pm in winter, 9 am-1 pm and 4-7 pm in summer. Also offers moonlight rides. Reservations required. 30 euros per hour; daily rates available by arrangement. Via dei Cercenii 15, Rome. Phone 328-208-5787. http://www.cavalieriappia.altervista.org.

Jogging
Joggers mainly avoid Rome's streets, which are narrow and often clogged with parked cars and elegant, disdainful pedestrians. Before the morning rush hour (about 9 am), running along the Tiber is pleasant, or try the Villa Borghese, Villa Pamphilj Circo Massimo or Villa Ada (off Via Salaria). At lunchtime, the path along Viale delle Terme di Caracalla (near Circo Massimo) is popular among joggers.
Spas and Health Clubs
Dabliu Barberini
Close to the Via Veneto and Piazza Tritone, this spotless club offers exercise classes that range from step to spinning. It stands behind the Bernini Bristol on the same street as Da Tullio, a great restaurant with a wood-burning oven. Various other locations throughout Rome. Monday-Friday 7 am-10:30 pm, Saturday 9 am-7 pm, Sunday 10 am-5 pm. Day fee is 15 euros. Via San Nicola Da Tolentino 30, Rome. Phone 06-4201-2515. http://www.dabliu.com.

Dok Bua City Retreat
Be pampered East Asian-style at this Thai spa, which offers some of the best relaxation in Rome. Enjoy massages from experts who learned their art at the Thai Spa Heritage in Bangkok. Try the "Surf of Sea" massages. Shiatsu, reiki, tansu, yoga and Pilates are also available. Massages start at 50 euros, always followed by a tea ceremony. Transportation is offered. Daily 11 am-9 pm. Villa Brasini, Via Flaminia 495a, Rome. Phone 06-333-9059. http://www.dokbua.it.

Moves
This small exercise gym is well-situated in the heart of the centro, near a beautiful street lined with antiques shops. It offers traditional exercise and weights, as well as yoga, aerobics and Pilates. Monday-Friday 9 am-9:30 pm, Saturday 10 am-4 pm, Sunday 10 am-1 pm. Day fee is 18 euros. Via dei Coronari 46, Rome. Phone 06-686-4989. http://moves-fitness.com.

Roman Sport Center
This giant sports center located in the Villa Borghese has just about everything a traveler may require: traditional club facilities, aerobics, yoga, spinning, squash, pools, steam room, massage, even parking and a pro shop. Open Monday-Friday 7 am-10:30 pm, Saturday 7 am-8:30 pm, Sunday 9 am-3 pm. Day fee is 30 euros. Via del Galoppatoio 33, Rome. Phone 06-321-8096. http://www.romansportcenter.com.

Swimming
Cavalieri Hilton
This hotel north of the Vatican allows nonguests to use its outdoor pool, which is heated—a rarity in Rome. You'll pay well for the privilege—45 euros per day Monday-Friday, 75 euros Saturday and Sunday. Closed in cold weather. Via Cadlolo 101, Rome. Phone 06-3509-2040. http://www.cavalieri-hilton.com.

Piscina delle Rose
The Piscina della Rosa offers a much-needed venue for cooling off during the summer months. Full Olympic swimming pool, plus health club and spa. Open daily mid-May to September Monday-Friday 10 am-10 pm, Saturday and Sunday 9 am-7 pm. Day pass 16 euros adults, 10 euros children younger than 12, free for children younger than 4. Viale America 20 (Metro stop: Eur Palasport), Rome. Phone 06-5422-0333. http://www.piscinadellerose.it.

Nightlife
Fellini's La Dolce Vita depicted a lifestyle of savoring the city's sidewalk cafes and nightclubs—a portrayal that's still very accurate today. A typical Roman evening begins with a late dinner, followed by the giro (a wander). This involves strolling through the piazzas of the city and stopping for coffee, gelato or a drink at a local pub or enoteca (wine bar). Nightclubs remain virtually empty until about 1 am. The majority of bars close at 2 am, with nightclubs shuttering around 4 am. However, this only means they stop entry. People already inside are permitted to stay until dawn, or even longer.

Nightspots are present throughout the city. The Centro Storico offers a wide range of bars, primarily filled with tourists (the Campo dei Fiori is especially popular). Trastevere is the spot for locals and students, with literally hundreds of bars and restaurants, dozens of movie theaters and a few nightclubs—all in an accessible, pedestrian-friendly area. Most clubs are in remote corners of the city. The Testaccio area near the Piramide metro stop is one exception. Late-night restaurants and bars flank some of the best dance spots. Avoid the centri sociali (partisan clubs)—and don't dally on the streets at night at the risk of being pickpocketed.

The city's live-music scene gets hopping late, with everything from South American rhythms to jazz.

Bars, Taverns & Pubs
Abbey Theater
Near Piazza Navona, this two-story Irish Victorian pub is popular both day and night—especially when there's a rugby match. Imported beer and whiskey are always on tap. It serves lunch and dinner, as well as Irish sausage, potatoes and beans for breakfast. Open daily noon-2 am. Happy hour Monday-Friday 3-8 pm. Via del Governo Vecchio 51/53, Rome. Phone 06-686-1341. http://www.abbey-rome.com.

Antica Enoteca di Via della Croce
Sit at the bar to sample delicious, freshly prepared appetizers and to drink Fragolino, a sparkling, berry-flavored wine, or one of the many other wines. This is also an ideal place to stop for lunch, dinner or an afternoon drink while shopping near Piazza di Spagna. The place can become touristy at times, however. Daily 11 am-1 am (packed from 5 pm until closing). Via della Croce 76, Rome. Phone 06-679-0896.

Antico Caffe della Pace
This place has an elegant, 19th-century interior (painted by Lucifero) and charming hanging-ivy exterior. A bit on the expensive side, and the swanky atmosphere only increases as the night wears on. The after-10 crowd mingles amid smoky mirrors, cool sofas and candlelight. By day, splurge for a drink at one of the outdoor tables: The view of the narrow piazza and an exquisite church, Santa Maria della Pace, is well worth it. Tuesday-Sunday 9 am-3 am, Monday 4 pm-3 am. In the evening, it gets going at about 10 pm. Via della Pace 3/7, Rome. Phone 06-686-1216. http://www.caffedellapace.it.

Art Cafe
This trendy nightspot is set among the tree-lined lawns of Villa Borghese park. During the day it serves as a center for cultural conferences and exhibitions. At night it becomes a hedonistic refuge for actors, models and other celebrities. Gazebos, tents, whirlpools and massage tables are spread out over the surrounding park during the hot summer months, when each night a different Asian culture is explored. Daily 9 am-3 am. Viale del Galoppatoio 33 (near the Via Veneto entrance to Villa Borghese), Rome. Phone 06-3600-6578.

Baladin
Shelves of beer bottles brilliantly line the walls at this low-key bar, which offers dozens of artisan beers, bottled and on tap. The staff is friendly, and the beer selection impressive; be aware that beer is the only beverage on the menu. A menu of small snacks is offered. Daily noon-2 am. Via degli Specchi 6 (between Jewish Ghetto and Campo dei Fiori), Rome. Phone 06-683-8989. http://www.openbaladin.com.

Cavour 313
One of Rome's original wine bars, unpretentious Cavour 313 (the name is simply the establishment's address) has avoided trends and stuck with what works: a solid menu of light foods, a diverse selection of wines (including two dozen available by the glass), a comfortable interior and a knowledgeable staff. Open daily 12:30-2:45 pm and 7:30 pm-12:30 am. Via Cavour 313 (between the Imperial Forum and Termini train station), Rome. Phone 06-678-5496. http://www.cavour313.it.

Cul de Sac
This historic wine bar is famous for serving more than 1,500 different wines, along with other drinks and Middle Eastern snacks. In the summer, sit on the patio and watch the tourists mix with movie stars and locals. Open daily noon-4 pm, nightly 6 pm-12:30 am. Gets busy after 9 pm. Piazza Pasquino 73 (just south of Piazza Navona), Rome. Phone 06-6880-1094. http://www.enotecaculdesac.com.

Jonathan's Angels
The bar's founder, an ex-circus star, decorated the place with hundreds of self-portraits in different costumes and periods. The elaborately decorated, exceedingly tacky neobaroque restroom is legendary (and somewhat overhyped), and there's usually a wait in line to see it. The bar is generally packed after 9 pm, and there's live music nightly after 11. Open Monday-Saturday 8 pm-2 am, Sunday 1 pm-2 am. Via della Fossa 16, Rome. Phone 06-689-3426.

Trinity College
This Irish pub is the most cosmopolitan bar in Rome, where tourists, expatriates and foreign students mix with xenophile Italians. Busy every night, it's packed Friday and Saturday evenings when DJs play. It is also a pleasant place to take a break from sightseeing in the afternoon or get a drink before dinner. Daily noon-2:30 am. Via del Collegio Romano 6 (just behind Palazzo Doria Pamphilj), Rome. Phone 06-678-6472. http://www.trinity-rome.com.

Vineria Reggio
Enclave of the bohemian set: Walls are lined with shelves of wine bottles, and the floor is scattered with sawdust. From May to September, this is the "in" place for young Romans and tourists, who sit outside for a drink under the statue of Giordano Bruno. Open Monday-Saturday 8:30 am-2 am. Campo dei Fiori, Rome. Phone 06-6880-3268.

Dance & Nightclubs
Alibi
This is the best-known, most elegant gay gathering place in Rome. Women won't feel very welcome there. A DJ spins dance music. Open Wednesday-Sunday 11:30 pm-5 am. Cover varies 6 euros-20 euros. Via Monte Testaccio 40, Rome. Phone 06-574-3448.

Alpheus
This cutting-edge club stages special events, including nights dedicated to jazz, international music, cabaret, live music and theme parties in three big rooms and a disco. Opening times vary from 9 am-midnight on Friday and Saturday; hours vary on other nights depending on concert schedules. Call after 4 pm for theme information and opening times. Cover 1 euro-20 euros, depending on the event. Via del Commercio 36 (near the Ostiense/Piramide metro stop), Rome. Phone 06-574-7826. http://www.alpheus.it.

Gilda
Still one of the liveliest places in Rome for the over-40 crowd, this place is so out of date that it is kind of in again. Famous local artists go to be seen, but there's also great dancing for commoners to enjoy. Elegant attire is mandatory to get past the snobby bouncers. Open Tuesday and Thursday-Sunday. Closed July-September. Cover 25 euros, includes one drink. For a table, the cost is 30 euros per person. Via Mario de' Fiori 97, Rome. Phone 06-678-4838. http://www.gildabar.it.

Goa
One of the trendiest clubs in Rome. Its interior sports candles, mirrors, incense, flowers and plasma screens that show the latest video art. Italy's best DJs make frequent appearances there. Fans of electronic music flock to the place on Thursday evening. Tough doormen, so show bella figura. Opens at midnight Thursday-Saturday. Via Libetta 13, Rome. Phone 06-574-8277.

Zoobar
This huge dance club has an enormous dance floor, as well as an outdoor area that is used for dancing in the summer. Open Thursday-Saturday nights. The fun rarely starts before midnight and lasts until 3:30 am. Cover starts at around 5 euros. Via Generale Roberto Bencivenga 1, Rome. Phone 339-272-7995. http://www.zoobar.roma.it.

Live Music
Alexanderplatz
Dinner is available in this well-appointed jazz club. Monday-Saturday concerts usually start after 10:30 pm; closes 3:30 am. Closed July and August. Reservations are highly recommended. Cover varies, depending on the act. Via Ostia 9 (in the Prati district), Rome. Phone 06-3974-2171. http://www.alexanderplatz.it.

Big Mama
Big names perform weekly in this internationally known club—Rome's Home of the Blues. Dinner is served from 9 pm. Walk there because almost no parking is available. Schedule varies weekly. Opens at 9 pm, acts begin around 10:30 pm, closes 1:30 am. 8 euros for a one-month membership; there can be an additional cover for big-name acts. Vicolo San Francesco a Ripa 18 (off Viale di Trastevere), Rome. Phone 06-581-2551. http://www.bigmama.it.

Casa del Jazz
A unique venue along the ancient Aurelian wall in central Rome that offers indoor and outdoor seating for 150 people, rehearsal rooms for private lessons, and a bookstore and minimuseum of jazz history. The annual summer concert series features well-known contemporary jazz greats as well as up-and-comers. Ticket office is open 7-10 pm on the days of shows; ticket prices vary. Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, Rome. Phone 06-704-731 for information. http://www.casajazz.it.

Fonclea
Most of the big names in Italian pop got started in this venue. It offers English country-pub decor in the pretty Prati district. The main room is reserved for nonsmokers. Light meals are served, as well as a lunch buffet. Open nightly 7 pm-2 am; till 3 am Friday and Saturday. Admission free, except Friday and Saturday (3 euros). Via Crescenzio 82, Rome. Phone 06-689-6302. http://www.fonclea.it.

Jazz Cafe
In a house confiscated from a mafia boss, this live-music and dance bar offers more than 200 cocktails, along with tasty food. Open nightly. DJs serve up tunes Friday and Saturday after 9:30 pm. Usually no cover charge. Via G. Zanardelli 12 (near Piazza Navona), Rome. Phone 06-6821-0119.

Performing Arts
Rome's greatest strength in the performing arts is perhaps in the theater, but almost all offerings are in Italian. (English-language productions are sometimes put on at Teatro Agora, Teatro dell'Arte and Teatro Ghione.) Rome's opera standards are also high, and dance companies, both classical and modern, perform to packed houses.

When it comes to classical music, Rome can't rival London or New York in terms of the sheer number of concerts, but the scene maintains high standards. Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia, the major hall in Rome, hosts many symphonic and chamber-music concerts, and Teatro dell'Opera also hosts well-known international dance companies. Concerts are also presented in churches and historic sites. Performing-arts schedules are promoted in local papers and billboards, and advertisements posted on buildings in the Centro Storico announce upcoming performances.

Nearby Cinecitta (Film City) has served as the studio for some great Hollywood epics, as well as for some Italian directors such as Fellini and Rossellini. Rome taps into the tradition with a large supply of cinemas, including several that screen movies in their original language. There are also a number of national and international film festivals in town. And during the summer months, two outdoor cinemas usually shine, each with a single screening just after sunset. One is near the Colosseum, and the other is on Tibertina Island. For more information, ask at the tourist information booths or check Roma C'e.

Film
Many Italian cinemas run films in original language (indicated by "v.o." in listings) several times a week. Check Roma C'e for complete movie listings. http://www.romace.it. Metropolitan
This movie theater usually presents an English-language film on one of its four screens. 7.50 euros; 5.50 euros for matinees Monday-Friday and all day Wednesday. Via del Corso 7 (next to Piazza del Popolo), Rome. Phone 06-320-0933. http://www.cinemadelsilenzio.it.

Nuovo Olimpia
This old cinema behind the Parliament is not particularly comfortable, and neither the sound nor the picture is of the quality of modern cinemas. However, it regularly presents English-, French- and Spanish-language films, with subtitles in Italian. 7.50 euros; 5.50 euros for matinees Monday-Friday and all day Wednesday. Via in Lucina 16/g (off Via del Corso, just north of Piazza Colonna), Rome. Phone 06-686-1068. http://www.cinemadelsilenzio.it.

Warner Village Moderno
One of the best movie theaters in Rome, both for comfort and the quality of sound and picture. It frequently shows English and Italian versions of films on separate screens. 8 euros. Piazza Repubblica 45 (at the metro stop Repubblica), Rome. Phone 06-892-111. http://www.warnervillage.it.

Music
Accademia Filarmonica Romana
The Teatro Olimpico hosts this group's chamber-music concerts and dance recitals during its October-May season. The box office at the theater is open 10 am-7 pm. Piazza Gentile de Fabriano 17, Rome. Phone 06-320-1752 for information. Phone 06-326-5991 for tickets. http://www.filarmonicaromana.org.

Orchestra dell'Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia
This resident ensemble performs symphonic concerts October-June in the Auditorium Parco della Musica. Concerts are sometimes held at the Baths of Caracalla as well. The box office is open Monday-Saturday 11 am-1 pm and 2-6 pm. Via Pietro da Coubertin 30, Rome. Phone 06-370-0106. http://www.santacecilia.it.

Teatro Palladium
Roma Tre university in central Rome continues to add interesting concerts to its annual schedule. The 1920s theater has been refurbished and the acoustics are superb. The box office is open Monday-Friday 9:30 am-1 pm and 2-6 pm and up until one hour before performances on scheduled days. Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8 (Garbatella), Rome. Phone 06-4555-3000. http://www.teatro-palladium.it.

Opera
Teatro Argentina
Rome's oldest opera house was inaugurated in 1732 and has hosted many operatic premieres including Gioachino Rossini's The Barber of Seville in 1816 and Giuseppe Verdi's I due foscari in 1844. More recently, the theater has hosted avant-garde opera performances and plays. The box office is open Monday-Saturday 10 am-2 pm and 3-7 pm. On days of performances 8-10 pm. Largo di Torre Argentina 32, Rome. Phone 06-684-000-346. http://www.teatrodiroma.net.

Teatro dell'Opera
Operas are performed mid-December to mid-June. The theater also hosts ballet and other performances. In summer, many performances are staged in the Terme di Caracalla. Buy tickets at the box office Tuesday-Saturday 9 am-5 pm, Sunday 9 am-1:30 pm. Piazza B. Gigli 1, Rome. Phone 06-487-003 or 06-481-601. http://www.operaroma.it.

Ticket Brokers
Genti e Paesi
Tickets for a variety of shows and sporting events, as well as to most theaters and museums. Monday-Saturday 9 am-7 pm. Via Adda 111, Rome. Phone 06-8530-1755. http://www.gentiepaesi.it.

Orbis
Offers tickets to museums, sporting events, theater productions and other shows. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-1 pm, 4-7:30 pm. Closed Saturday afternoons in summer. Piazza dell'Esquilino 37, Rome. Phone 06-474-4776.

Ticketeria
Reserved tickets for museums and concerts, with sales points throughout Rome. Monday-Friday 9 am-6 pm, Saturday 9 am-1 pm. Piazzale del Museo Borghese 5, Rome. Phone 06-32-810. http://www.ticketeria.it.

Venues
Auditorium Parco della Musica
This theater complex is the largest in Europe, with three main halls in varying sizes. Home to the Orchestra dell'Accademia di Santa Cecilia, it also presents a multitude of other performances, from dance to large rock concerts and cinema. In the winter months, the outdoor area is transformed into a snowy playland complete with an ice rink. The Auditorium—designed by superstar architect Renzo Piano—also serves as a venue for painting, sculpture and photography exhibitions. Check the online schedule for up-to-date information. Open daily 11 am-8 pm and one hour before concerts. Viale Pietro da Coubertin 30, Rome. Phone 06-892-982 for the box office. http://www.musicaperroma.it.

Spectator Sports
Romans are known for passionately following soccer, tennis, cycling and horse racing. Soccer, called calcio, is the Italian national sport, played September-June. Sunday afternoon is the traditional time for home games of the local contenders, Roma and Lazio. Horse races take place at Le Capannelle on Sunday. The Rome Marathon in March is picking up steam as an internationally recognized event. The city dresses for the occasion, and some of the best runners in the world compete.
Horse Racing
Le Capannelle
There's racing at Le Capannelle every Sunday and also on some weekdays. Your hotel's concierge or front-desk staff can get the timetable, which changes often. Entrance fee is 7 euros. Via Appia Nuova 1255 (south of the city), Rome. Phone 06-716-771. http://www.capannelle-galoppo.it.

Soccer
Roma and Lazio soccer teams
The Eternal City is blessed with two local teams: Roma and Lazio. Matches are generally held on Sunday afternoon at the Olympic Stadium, meaning there is a home game for one team or the other every weekend during the season. When these teams clash twice a year, the city erupts in a froth of air horns, graffiti and banners (Roma's is red and gold with a she-wolf; Lazio's, blue and white with an eagle). Note that both clubs are notorious for hooligans—racist outbursts and violent clashes with police can and do happen. Tickets cost 15 euros-100 euros. They can be purchased at the team stores or through your hotel concierge. AS Roma Store is located at Piazza Colonna 360. Open daily. Phone 06-678-6514. Lazio Point is located at Via Farini 34. Open Monday-Saturday. Phone 06-482-6768. Stadio Olimpico, Via Foro Italico, Rome. Phone 06-482-6688. http://www.asroma.it. http://www.sslazio.it.

Other Options
Campionato Internazionale di Tennis
If you're lucky enough to be in town for the Italian Open—and lucky enough to get a seat—you will be thrilled by the world-class competitors at this series. Tickets can be expensive; later-round tickets are almost impossible to acquire. The events take place in the Foro Italico in late April or early May. Viale dei Gladiatori 31, Rome.

Shopping
Rome's trendy stores with the latest fashions just might divert you from seeing one more museum. Fans of Prada, Fendi, Ferragamo or Gucci will have plenty to choose from. What's more, those famous brands, which are available around the world, will seem different: Even the designers known for the purity of their lines—Armani, for instance—seem to offer something a little more baroque in Rome. But the true joy of shopping in this city lies in discovering one-of-a-kind items in specialty shops. Hundreds of such stores sell goods, particularly shoes and clothing accessories, that are produced on-site, often using centuries-old techniques.

Beyond the world of high fashion, you can check out the upscale secondhand shops on Via del Governo Vecchio, the artisan studios of Trastevere and the galleries of Monti. Rome also has a handful of markets, each with a distinctive style. The colorful and inviting Campo dei Fiori offers cheeses, spices, some clothing, kitchenware and, of course, flowers (the name means field of flowers). The Sunday flea market at Porta Portese is not for the faint of heart—shoppers are packed in so tightly it becomes an effort just to stop or cross the street. Go early and beware of pickpockets.

Much of Rome—and indeed, Italy—shuts down for several weeks in the summer heat. This period, known as Ferragosto, can stretch from mid-July through August. The one advantage: superb sales beforehand.

Shopping Hours: Stores are generally open Monday-Saturday 9 am-1 pm and 4:30-7:30 pm. Most stores are closed all day Sunday, and some take Monday morning off, as well. The exception is the Centro Storico, where a seven-day shopping culture is emerging. In winter, many boutiques have reduced hours, although most open their doors until 8:30 or 9 pm two weeks before Christmas.

Antique Stores
Three streets—Via del Babuino, Via Coronari and Via Giulia—are lined with very good shops carrying English, French and Italian furniture, most of it from the 1700s and 1800s. Granmercato dell'Antiquariato, next to the Babuino fountain, has three floors for browsing. Other antiques shops and rigattieri (collectors) can be found on side streets near Campo dei Fiori, Via Panico and Via di Monserrato. In May and October, Via dell'Orso and Via dei Coronari have street fairs. Christie's, Sotheby's and several other houses hold regular auctions throughout the year.
Bookstores
Almost Corner Bookshop
This tiny shop (its previous location was on a corner) can be found down a picturesque street in Trastevere, just off the Ponte Sisto. Packed to the rafters with choice selections, it's open Sunday to boot. Monday-Saturday 10 am-1:30 pm and 3:30-8 pm, Sunday 11 am-1:30 pm and 3:30-8 pm. Via del Moro 45, Rome. Phone 06-583-6942.

Anglo American Bookstore
A great shop located near the Spanish Steps, the Anglo American offers a wide selection of English titles and travel books, as well as a good children's-book section. Open Monday 3:30-7:30 pm, Tuesday-Saturday 10:30 am-7:30 pm. Via della Vite 102 (near the Spanish Steps), Rome. Phone 06-679-5222. http://www.aab.it.

Feltrinelli International
Thousands of English titles to choose from: fiction, travel, cuisine and history. Feltrinelli's also stocks stationery, maps and literary souvenirs. There are other locations throughout the city, but they have smaller international selections. Monday-Saturday 9 am-8 pm, Sunday 10:30 am-1:30 pm and 4-8 pm. Via V.E. Orlando 84 (near Termini station, just off Piazza della Repubblica), Rome. Phone 06-487-0999. http://www.lafeltrinelli.it.

La Libreria del Viaggiatore
A vast selection of travel books in multiple languages including travelogues, maps and itineraries. Open Monday 4-8 pm, Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-2 pm and 4-8 pm. Via del Pellegrino 78 (Campo dei Fiori), Rome. Phone 06-6880-1048.

Lion Bookshop
The Lion has been around for a long time. It's a great old shop with a nice cafe. Daily 9:45 am-7:15 pm. Via dei Greci 36, Rome. Phone 06-3265-4007. http://www.thelionbookshop.com.

Touring Club Italiano
Produces driving maps and guides. Stop in before an automotive excursion. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-6:30 pm. Viale Giulio Cesare 100, Rome. Phone 06-3600-5281. http://www.touringclub.it.

Department Stores
COIN
Expect fashionable—but typical—men's and women's casual and dress wear and shoes, as well as glasses, cosmetics, perfumes and furniture. Branches dot the city. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-8 pm, Sunday 10:30 am-8 pm. Via Cola di Rienzo 173, Rome. Phone 06-3600-4298. http://www.coin.it.

La Rinascente
Classic men's, women's and some children's wear, as well as cosmetics and accessories are found there at moderate prices. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-9:30 pm, Sunday 10 am-9 pm. Piazza Colonna, Via del Corso, Rome. Phone 06-679-7691. http://www.rinascente.it.

Markets
Campo dei Fiori
At this white-tented market, vendors hawk beautiful flowers, fresh produce, spices and food delicacies, especially cheeses. The best bread-maker in all of Rome, Forno, is located there—try the pizza bianca, considered by Roman cognoscenti to be the best in the city. On Sunday afternoons, artists sell paintings in the square. The market is usually busy Monday-Saturday 7 am-1:30 pm. Campo dei Fiori (between the river and Corso Vittorio Emanuele II), Rome.

Porta Portese
Rome's flea market sells practically everything—from a doghouse and an 18th-century sofa to old and new pearls (strung in India) and icons of dubious heritage. Look through tables of used clothing, including the occasional vintage design. As a rule, the best and most interesting finds are in the stalls around Piazza Ippolito Nievo. Bargaining is half the fun—expect high drama when you offer a few euros less. Be extremely wary of pickpockets, because the aisles get crowded. Open Sunday 7 am-2 pm. In a warren of streets and alleys beginning at Ponte Sublicio (on the west side of the Tiber), Rome.

Via Sannio Market
This place sells new and secondhand clothes and shoes. Open Monday-Saturday 9 am-2 pm. Near Porta San Giovanni, Rome.

Shopping Areas
Galleria Alberto Sordi
Alberto Sordi was perhaps Italy's most popular comic actor. His death in 2003 led to more than two weeks of national mourning and dozens of monuments and dedications in his honor. The most famous of these was the reopening of the Galleria Colonna, rechristened Galleria Alberto Sordi. This beautiful building houses dozens of shops, a few cafes and Feltrinelli's enormous media shop. The Galleria has become one of the primary cultural focal points for the city, hosting concerts, poetry readings, charity rallies and art exhibitions. It has even replaced the Spanish Steps as the default meeting point for locals. Daily 10 am-10 pm. Piazza Colonna, Rome.

Via Cola di Rienzo
Starting at Piazza Risorgimento near the Vatican, this long, somewhat unprepossessing street is an excellent shopping area for nearly everything, especially for women's clothing and leather products. It's popular with locals.

Via del Corso
This central street, running from Piazza del Popolo to Piazza Venezia, has the best (and some of the most expensive) shopping in Rome. The east side of the street, near Piazza di Spagna, hosts upscale boutiques. Two cross streets, Via Frattina and Via Condotti, are a veritable who's who of designer names (with street vendors selling counterfeit wares right in front of the designers they're imitating). On the west side are more reasonably priced men's and women's clothes (still of exceptional quality). Near the Trevi Fountain, you may even be able to find some bargains, especially in shoes and leather goods.

Via Nazionale
This street, which stretches from Piazza Venezia to Piazza della Repubblica, is lined with small specialty fashion shops known for attractive sale prices in July and January. Most of the best shops are at the end closest to Piazza della Repubblica.

Specialty Stores
Most specialty shops are one-person or family operations, and their opening hours are completely dependent on the owners.
 Al Sogno
Tiny lead soldiers line up to protect unusual dolls and lifelike plush animals, all in a charming setting. The perfect place to buy a gift for a child. Daily 10 am-8 pm. Piazza Navona 53, Rome. Phone 06-686-4198. http://www.alsogno.com.

Andrea Gobbi
See the artist and his students at work in this dramatic atelier, which was renovated to reflect each show's theme. Via dei Lucani 33a, Rome. Phone 06-4434-0151. http://www.andreagobbi.com.

Antica Norcineria Viola
One of the best places in the Centro Storico to buy prosciutto and more than 100 different salamis produced in the city of Norcia in Umbria. Ever tried anise salami? Monday-Saturday 7:30 am-1:30 pm and 3:30-8 pm. Piazza Campo de' Fiori 43, Rome. Phone 06-6880-6114.

Borsalino
Borsalino has been in the hat-making business for more than a century, and that experience is reflected in its quality goods. The milliner carries a selection of stylish accessories, belts and gloves, too. Monday-Saturday 10 am-7:30 pm, Sunday 1:30-7:30 pm. Piazza del Popolo 20, Rome. Phone 06-3265-0838. http://www.borsalino.com.

Claudio Sano
This young designer sculpts Tuscan leather into futuristic yet functional pieces—from sleek attache cases to fish-shaped handbags. 67a Largo degli Osci, San Lorenzo, Rome. Phone 06-446-9284. http://www.claudiosano.it.

C.U.C.I.N.A.
What Italian kitchens are made of: gadgets, pans, odd little devices. This store has everything you need to stock the home kitchen and set the table. Open daily except Sunday 10 am-7:30 pm, Monday open 3:30-7:30 pm. Via Mario de' Fiori 65, Rome. Phone 06-679-1275. http://www.cucinastore.com.

Fornari & Fornari
Finest Italian designer kitchenware. This is the place to stock up on beautiful silverware, glassware, crockery and table-top accessories for your Italian cooking back home. Monday 3:30-7:30 pm, Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-7:30 pm. Via Frattina 133, Rome. Phone 06-678-0105. http://www.fornari1905.com.

Giorgio Sermoneta
Stars and fashionistas stock up on this shop's beautiful handmade leather gloves, lined with silk or cashmere. Chose a favorite fancy cuff and pick from a riot of colors. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-8 pm, Sunday 10:30 am-7 pm. Piazza di Spagna 61, Rome. Phone 06-679-1960. http://www.sermonetagloves.com.

Joseph Debach
These handmade shoes are works of art—some resemble sultans' slippers with curled-up toes. Don't bother visiting in the day, though. The shop is a fixture of Trastevere nightlife and never opens before 7:30 pm (though phone orders are accepted). Vicolo de Cinque 19, Trastevere, Rome. Phone 339-508-5810.

Polvere di Tempo, Guytamelli
This store specializes in archaic mechanisms for telling time. It has an impressive selection of handmade hourglasses, sundials, solar clocks, water clocks, candle clocks and other antique instruments, as well as a small collection of jewelry and leather goods. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-8 pm. Via del Moro 59, Trastevere, Rome. Phone 06-588-0704. http://www.polvereditempo.com.

Spazio Sette
For home furnishings, kitchenware and lighting, Spazio Sette offers the best in European design. Even the store is a work of art with frescoed ceilings above three floors of houseware heaven in a 17th-century palazzo near the Campo dei Fiori. Open daily except Sunday 9:30 am-1 pm and 3:30-7:30 pm. Closed Monday morning. Via dei Barbieri 7, Rome. Phone 06-686-9747.

TAD
Fabulous one-stop-shop with avant-garde fashion, footwear, furnishings, fragrances, rare flowers, music compilations, books and cult magazines. You can also get a fashionable haircut in this concept store, enjoy an hour of antistress therapy and the like, or have a lunch of Asian-Mediterranean fusion food in the TAD cafe. The abbreviation stands for tendenze e antiche debolezze (trends and old weaknesses). Sunday-Friday noon-7:30 pm, Saturday 10:30 am-8 pm. Via Del Babuino 155a, Rome. Phone 06-3269-5131. http://www.taditaly.com.

Trimani
This elegant wine shop is one of the best in Rome, offering a large selection of wines from Italy and France, as well as spirits and liquors. Monday-Saturday 9 am-1:30 pm and 3:30-8:30 pm. Via Goito 20 (near Termini), Rome. Phone 06-446-6961. http://www.trimani.com.

Valzani
This is one source of those lavish hostess gifts that Romans bestow, all gussied up with wrapping paper and ribbons. Valzani stocks handmade chocolate candies, nougat and traditional Italian treats. Its gorgeous Sacher torte is hard to resist. Why try? Open daily 10 am-8 pm; closed Monday and Tuesday mornings and during July and August. Via del Moro 37B, Trastevere, Rome. Phone 06-580-3792. http://www.valzani.it.

Volpetti
Savor the gourmet cuisine of Norcia, in Umbria, a region famed for its cheese, ham and sausages. The store overflows with delicacies such as wild-boar ham, Piedmontese cheese with white truffles (crutin), farmed Italian caviar (calvisius) and 200-euro bottles of 50-year-old balsamic vinegar (aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena). Open Monday-Saturday 8 am-2 pm and 5-8:15 pm. Via Marmorata 47, Testaccio, Rome. Phone 06-574-2352. http://www.volpetti.com.

Itinerary
Day Trips
Rome is in the center of the Latium (Lazio) region. Day trips can take in the rich offerings of the region, from the Mediterranean coast to antiquities in the hills around the city.

To Ostia Antica. Visit the well-preserved ruins of ancient Rome's port in a beautiful park of pines and cypresses less than 15 mi/24 km from Rome. The extensive excavations expose the empire's remarkable architecture—from houses and stores to temples. Practice your oratory in the perfect acoustics of the Roman theater that seats 3,000 and then wander the miles/kilometers of alleyways. Take along water and a picnic lunch. The museum closes 1:30-2:30 pm for lunch. And don't visit on a Monday—both the excavations and the museum are closed that day.

Nearby is the necropolis of Isola Sacra, the Castle of Pope Julius II in the borgo of Ostia Antica and the fishing port of Fiumicino. To reach the area by car (a 45-minute drive), take Via del Mare 14 mi/23 km from Rome. No turns—just follow the signs to Ostia Antica. Or even better, take the train (a 20-minute ride) from Termini or Ostiense stations (trains leave every 30 minutes). The train station is just across a footbridge from the excavations. Daily except Monday 8:30 am-5 pm (4 pm in winter). Admission 6.50 euros. Viale dei Romagnoli 717, Ostia, Rome. Phone 06-5635-8099. http://www.ostia-antica.org.

To the Castelli Romani (Colli Albani). These picturesque towns are scattered across isolated volcanic hills. The pope spends his summers at Castel Gandolfo high above Lake Albano, and from there he gives his Sunday blessing. Most of the towns have chestnut festivals in the fall. The slopes are planted with the vines that produce the famous Vini dei Castelli. Take Via Tuscolana in the direction of Frascati, 7 mi/11 km south of Rome. Or, to reach Frascati, the hub of the Albani region, take Metro A to Anagnina and then take a COTRAL bus. Trains leave Termini Station for Frascati roughly every hour; the ride takes 30 minutes.

To Tivoli. A popular day trip from Rome (about 45 minutes away) included in many tours. Visit lush Villa d'Este, a convent-turned-palace, complete with an aquatic pleasure park. Elaborate fountains and fishponds spout in its impressive gardens. Don't miss the miniature version of ancient Rome or the Organ Fountain, which once played music. The estate is open daily except Monday 8:30 am to dusk. Admission is 6.50 euros. Down the street from Largo Garibaldi. Phone 199-766-166. http://www.villadestetivoli.info.

The magnificent cascade of the Villa Gregoriana is also worth a stop. Admission 5 euros. Daily except Monday in March 10 am-2:30 pm, April-September 10 am-6:30 pm, October-November 10 am-2:30 pm. Open December-March by reservation. Phone 077-438-2733. http://www.villagregoriana.it.

To get to Tivoli by car, take the Via Tiburtina 20 mi/32 km southeast from Rome or take the highway (A24 for L'Aquila, and take the Tivoli exit). The most convenient way to get there, however, is by the train from Tibertina Station.

After the Villa d'Este, go on to Hadrian's Villa, the largest and richest estate of the Roman Imperial era. This staggeringly large residence of Emperor Hadrian is one of the most evocative classical sites still standing in Italy. Take a picnic (the tiny snack bar could be better). Local buses stop at the intersection for Hadrian's Villa, but be prepared for a walk. Open daily 9 am to one hour before sunset. 6.50 euros. An additional 2 euros is charged when there are exhibitions. Via Rosolino, 3 mi/5 km south of Tivoli. Phone 0774-382-733. http://www.villa-adriana.net.

To Viterbese or Tuscia. These areas north of Rome are still relatively unknown to international visitors. The sparsely inhabited hill towns are famous for their profusion of elegant Renaissance gardens, architectural masterpieces, cool lakes, crafts, extra-virgin olive oil and cooking. Magnificent fountain-filled gardens can be visited at Villa Lante at Bagnaia, a suburb of Viterbo. Open daily except Monday. 2 euros. Via Iacopo Barozzi 71, Bagnaia. Phone 0761-288-008.

Bomarzo village, 7 mi/12 km northeast of Bagnaia, contains the silly and sublime Monster Park (Parco dei Mostri—also called the Sacred Grove, Sacro Bosco). This surreal sculpture garden—sort of a 16th-century theme park—is one of northern Lazio's primary attractions. 8 euros. Daily 8:30 am to one hour before sunset. Localita Giardino, Bomarzo. Phone 0761-924-029. http://www.bomarzo.net.

Italy's best-preserved Renaissance parterre is at Principessa Claudia Ruspoli's family castello in Vignanello, a town famous for its wine. Another princess, Elika del Drago, gives spring and summer tours of her island's gardens on Isola Bisentina, located in Lago Bolsena. The largest of the area's three lakes, it's really a flooded volcanic crater. Tourists can rent boats at various locations around the lake; Capodimonte is a good base. Enjoy a fish lunch at one of the many lakeside restaurants in Capodimonte or Marta and then visit the medieval center of Bolsena (known for its catacombs and castle museum). This day trip is best undertaken by car.

Local Tours
Rome has no shortage of guides, running every type of tour imaginable. Yet the quality varies incredibly—even within a company—and some operate illegally. The city of Rome operates a Bus Turistico service, which offers inexpensive overviews of Rome. Qualified tour guides can only be located through Centro Guide Cast, Via Cavour 184. Phone 06-482-5698. http://www.cast-turismo.it.

If you want to splurge, hire a horse cab. The fare for a one-hour tour should be about 80 euros total—be sure to establish a fee before starting out. Drivers will take you wherever you wish. See your hotel's concierge or front desk staff to find the closest carriages.
110 Bus Turistico
Tours depart from the Cinquecento plaza in front of Termini station and have English-speaking guides. Tickets can be purchased at the ATAC information kiosk in front of the station. Tours depart daily every 20 minutes 8:30 am-8:30 pm, and last approximately two hours. A stop-and-go ticket is 20 euros (you can get on and off the bus as often as you like). Phone 06-684-0901. http://www.trambusopen.com.

Appianline
This local bus with guide takes larger groups; it is city-approved. The Ciao Roma tour runs two hours and costs 19 euros. Piazza dell'Esquilino 6, Rome. Phone 06-4878-6601. http://www.appianline.it.

Archaeobus
City-approved tour running from Piazza dei Cinquecento every half-hour 8:30 am-4:30 pm. Purchase tickets for the 90-minute tour onboard the bus, at the kiosk in Piazza dei Cinquecento or online (online booking offers a discount). 15 euros. Phone 06-684-0901. http://www.trambusopen.com.

City Fly
See the Eternal City from the air on this 20-minute tour in a plane that seats three to nine people. Flights depart from Aeroporto dell'Urbe, near the city center, 9:30 am to sunset June-August. Reservations required. 80 euros adults, 56 euros children. Via Salaria 825, Rome. Phone 06-88333. http://www.cityfly.com.

Context:Rome
Architects and historians offer walking seminars through this expat-owned company, which also designs private tours. Smart, fun and funny, these guides rank among the city's best. Other services include language workshops, yoga sessions and cell-phone rentals. Context:Rome's 3.5-hour Underground Tour is especially popular (60 euros, plus about 15 euros worth of tickets). Via Baccina 40, Rome. Phone 06-9762-5204. http://rome.contexttravel.com.

Through Eternity
Some of the most enjoyable niche tours of the city run the gamut from urban treks through the ruins to such esoteric outings as the Angels and Demons tour and the Feast of Bacchus wine-tasting tour. All tours are adaptable to visitors' wishes and historical knowledge. Phone 06-700-9336. http://www.througheternity.com.

Dining
Dining Overview
Each region of Italy boasts its own distinctive cuisine, and because Rome has become home to Italians from all over the country, the city's native, rustic cuisine has been influenced by many different sources. For a true taste of the indigenous cucina povera (food of the poor people) be sure to sample the food at a number of humble trattorias, not just the upscale restaurants. Classic dishes include spaghetti carbonara, bucatini all'amatriciana (straw-shaped noodles in a tomato and bacon sauce), l'abbacchio (roast lamb), carciofi alla giudia (deep-fried artichokes) and the most Roman of all: trippa (tripe).

Tuscan and Sicilian restaurants usually provide more elegant meals and refined dining. Begin with an antipasto of marinated vegetables, seafood, bruschetta or a selection of meats. Prosciutto crudo is often served with melon or figs in the summer. The first course is almost always a pasta dish, such as penne all'arrabiata (quills with a chili-tomato sauce), linguini con vongole veraci (linguine with clam sauce) or pasta e fagioli (short pasta cooked in a thick bean soup). For a second (main) course, try rombo (turbot), spigola (sea bass) or straccetti con basilico e parmigiano (thin-sliced beef topped with fresh rocket lettuce and Parmesan cheese).

Italian meals typically run five courses from antipasti to dolce (dessert), followed by coffee and a digestivo. Visitors are under no obligation to order all of them. However, two courses is the polite minimum at a busy establishment. Given the leisurely pace of dining, you've "bought the table for the evening"—don't abuse such hospitality by ordering only a salad. Light eaters should try fancier places for lunch—or retreat to a cafe, cafeteria (tavola calda), pizzeria or slice shop (pizza al taglio). The latter also can provide a great snack on the go; while you're there, sample the suppli (deep-fried rice balls with tomato sauce and a molten mozzarella core). Be aware that sitting at a tavola calda will increase the price of your meal; order your lunch portar via (to take away).

The region's most famous wines are the dry whites—Vini dei Castelli (Frascati, Genzano, Marino and Velletri). To accompany meat dishes, choose a full-bodied dry red from the regions of Tuscany or Piedmonte, or one of the reds from up-and-coming wine regions such as Sicily or Umbria. Romans typically order a carafe of house wine (vino della casa) usually from the countryside near Rome in the case of whites and from the adjacent region of Abruzzo for reds—selections are usually decent and reasonably priced. Be forewarned, however: The liter unit is 25% larger than a typical bottle—and public drunkenness is frowned upon (half- and quarter-liters are also available).

The main local beers are Peroni, Moretti and Nastro Azurro, which are well-made lagers on the lighter side—fans of heavier beers will have to opt for an import. Order acqua naturale (flat water) or frizzante (sparkling) with each meal. Other nonalcoholic treats include fresh-squeezed juice (spremuta) and lemonade (limonata).

Italian coffee is ubiquitous—and unmissable. Even those who normally dislike espresso may appreciate the smooth genuine version. Barristi brew dozens of variations of the simple shot (order un caffe and not un espresso in Rome). At more casual establishments, pay at the register (cassa), and then present the receipt at the counter, with a small coin (0.10 or 0.20 euros) on top as a tip. Table service can increase the price—by as much as 500% in a tourist hot spot. Also note that locals drink cappuccino only for breakfast—never in the evening or after meals. Gelato, the heavenly Italian ice cream, is appropriate any time of the day or night.

Modern life has trimmed the traditional five meals a day. Italians aren't generally big on breakfast (usually cappuccino with a sugar-glazed croissant or a cream-filled pastry), but brunch is popular. Lunch, around 1 pm, can consist of one course or several (restaurants close 3-7 pm, so don't wait). Dinner can be either a leisurely affair with several courses or just pizza and beer.

Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of dinner for one, not including drinks or tip: $ = less than 20 euros; $$ = 20 euros-35 euros; $$$ = 36 euros-65 euros; and $$$$ = more than 65 euros.

Tax is almost always included in the price of meals. The bill (conto) may feature pane e coperto (bread and a cover charge) or servizio (service). Tip 5% atop the coperto or 10%-12% otherwise (Italians offer less, but tourists are expected to be gracious).

Local & Regional
Agata e Romeo
What started in 1890 as a weekly dinner of roast pork at Agata's grandparents' house evolved over the years into one of Rome's finest dining experiences. The menu is created entirely by Agata, who is a local chef celebrity with her own cookbook line. Romeo (her husband) handles the extensive wine cellar and never misses when pairing wines to food. Ingredients are traditional Roman staples, but the creativity in preparation takes them far beyond. Staples include Agata's sformato di formaggio di fossa (a souffle-tart made with sheep's cheese that has been aged in special caves in northern Italy) and risotto with quail eggs, asparagus and crumbly prosciutto. Desserts include Agata's millefoglie chocolate invention. Open daily except Saturday and Sunday. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$. Via Carlo Alberto 45, Rome. Phone 06-446-6115. http://www.agataeromeo.it.

Ambasciata d'Abruzzo
This restaurant showcases fare from the mountainous Abruzzo region, east of Rome. The bruschetta appetizers are among the city's best, proving that toast-with-toppings can reach culinary heights. The maccheroni alla chitarra cacio e pepe (elbow pasta with sheep's cheese and pepper) is another standout. Porcini mushrooms and truffles feature heavily—never a bad thing. Open daily for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. Via Pietro Tacchini 26 (Parioli), Rome. Phone 06-807-8256. http://www.ambasciatadiabruzzo.com.

Ambasciata di Capri
This wonderful restaurant close to the Vatican serves delicious specialties from the island of Capri, including black ravioli with cuttlefish, and the pezzogna, a tender fish that only swims in the waters of the Gulf of Naples. But the dolci make the fame of this restaurant, and rumor has it that owner Mario Tarantino sends a selection of them to the pope once a month. Try the ricotta tart with pears, the tiramisu and the wonderful pastiera, a shortcrust cake with ricotta and buffalo-milk cheese. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Via E.Q. Visconti 52, Rome. Phone 06-8992-8793. http://www.ambasciatadicapri.com.

Asino Cotto
Tucked into a romantic back corner on the quiet side of Trastevere, this gourmet staple is really a showcase for master chef Giulianno Brenna. His creations transform seasonal ingredients into succulent dishes that he personally explains to diners with great care. Dishes—carre di agnello al te' verde, cedro e coriandolo (roasted rack of lamb with green tea, cedar and coriander)—are coupled with such desserts as mousse di cioccolato "Santo Domingo" con sedano sciroppato (Santo Domingo chocolate mousse with celery syrup). Don't be surprised if he comes out after you've eaten to see if you liked what he prepared. Gay-owned and gay-friendly, this is a restaurant for couples and not a place for children. Open Monday-Friday for lunch, daily except Monday for dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Via dei Vascellari 48 (Trastavere), Rome. Phone 06-589-8985. http://www.asinocotto.com.

Boccondivino
In the heart of the Campo Marte, the urban decor of this trendy restaurant defies its stoic 16th-century surroundings with zebraskin chairs and burlap table coverings. But the food sticks to its Roman roots as seasonal market offerings take shape in delicious risottos and colorful pastas. Seafood dishes—think salmon drizzled with citrus marinade—dominate the menu. The fixed-price menu for 18 euros is the best deal, and the restaurant is filled with politicians who work at the government complex nearby. Open daily for lunch and dinner. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Piazza Campo Marzio 6, Rome. Phone 06-683-08626. http://www.boccondivino.it.

Camponeschi
This upscale restaurant is near the Michelangelo-designed Palazzo Farnese, which now houses the French Embassy. Try the fusilli calabresi (corkscrew pasta with fresh tomatoes and eggplant sauce) or, if you favor fresh seafood, maltagliati all'astice (short, flat pasta with lobster sauce). For an entree, ask for rosette con carciofi (veal with artichokes) or agnello al rosmarino (lamb with rosemary). There's a wide selection of rich, creamy desserts. Open Monday-Saturday for dinner. The wine bar next door is open Monday-Saturday 7:30 pm-1 am. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Piazza Farnese 50, Rome. Phone 06-687-4927. http://www.ristorantecamponeschi.it.

Checchino dal 1887
Few restaurants can still claim to preserve—and serve—traditional Roman food as Checchino has been doing since 1887. Its claim to fame is the invention of la coda alla vaccinara—a distinctive dish made from less-popular cuts of meat. It carries the official cucinaromana designation. Excellent wine list. Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Closed in August and for a week around Christmas. Reservations required. No shorts or tank tops allowed. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Via Monte Testaccio 30, Rome. Phone 06-574-3816. http://www.checchino-dal-1887.com.

Colline Emiliane
Try the mouthwatering classic Bolognese dishes in this tiny, but very popular, family-run restaurant just off Bernini's Triton Fountain. Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for lunch only. Reservations required. $$$. Via degli Avignonesi 22, Rome. Phone 06-481-7538.

Dal Bolognese
This is one of a small handful of restaurants in Rome where the menu lives up to its chic reputation. Popular with Italian television and film stars as well as international gourmands. Try the misto di pasta (four kinds of pasta on one plate) as a first course, and graduate to any of the restaurant's signature veal dishes. Open daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. Closed for three weeks in August. Reservations required. $$$$. Piazza del Popolo 1, Rome. Phone 06-361-1473.

Enoteca Corsi
One of the best—and least pretentious—places to eat lunch in the normally pricey center. The look of the place is virtually unchanged since it opened its doors in 1943, and it is a favorite of local businesspeople and power brokers, as well as students and blue-collar workers. Prices are very reasonable, and the menu is limited to a few tasty choices each day, scrawled on wall-hung chalkboards (wonderful gnocchi and great saltimbocca alla romana). Go to the back and turn to the right for the wine store, which has a few extra tables in it and a still-more-charming atmosphere. Wine is also available to take away. Open Monday-Saturday noon-3:30 pm. The wine store is open Monday-Saturday 8:30 am-1 pm and 5-8 pm. Reservations not accepted except for large parties. $. No credit cards. Via del Gesu 88, Rome. Phone 06-679-0821.

Enoteca Ferrara
This enchanting enoteca in the heart of Trastevere started out as a tiny, backstreet hole-in-the-wall wine bar owned by two sisters and has grown to encompass most of the bottom floor of a medieval palazzo. View the expansive wine cellar from the glass floor in the main bar or head straight to the dining area where recipes inspired by the old tradition of the cucina povera ("poor man's kitchen") are reinvented into modern fare. Sicilian dishes (involtini of pesce spada, or swordfish rolls) and northern delights (thick vegetable soups) are the best offerings. Open daily, dinner only. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Entrances at Via del Moro 1a and Piazza Trilussa 41, Rome. Phone 06-5833-3920. http://www.enotecaferrara.it.

Felice a Testaccio
One of the tastiest and most colorful restaurants in the city center's working-class district. The restaurant is run by restaurateur Felice and his family, who are tempermental enough to deny a second course to diners who don't finish their first. But not finishing the first is tough: the pasta is to die for—try the simple and addictive Pasta al Felice (ricotta, tomatoes, mint and chili)—and the suckling lamb served in cooler months is unforgettable. Oscar-winning actor Roberto Benigni adores the restaurant so much he wrote a poem in its honor. Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for dinner (and subject to Felice's whims). Reservations are required and rarely accepted the day of the meal. $$. Visa and MasterCard accepted. Via Mastro Giorgio 29, Testaccio, Rome. Phone 06-574-6800. http://www.feliceatestaccio.com.

Gino al Villino
This small trattoria has been around since 1958, kept secret by its location just outside the city center. Don't expect the servers to speak English, but do look forward to some of the best Roman cooking possible. The menu changes daily, and the chef's inventions are always worth trying. However, staples include polenta con salsiccia (polenta and Roman sausages) and gnocci al parmigiano (potato-based dumplings in a parmigiana sauce). Adventurous diners sometimes continue with la trippa (tripe in a tomato and cheese sauce). Open daily except Wednesday for lunch and dinner. Closed for two weeks in August. $$. Most major credit cards. Largo Alessandrina Ravizza 12 (take Tram 8 to the Ravizza stop), Rome. Phone 06-582-33-977.

Giovanni
A kind and efficient family from the Marche region owns this pleasant, comfortable restaurant. The cuisine is delicate and simple. Ask for the traditional tagliolini al sugo di carne (homemade pasta with red meat sauce) or the lentil soup. For dessert, savor the millefoglie (multilayered, cream-filled puff pastry). Open Sunday-Thursday for lunch and dinner, Friday for lunch only. Closed August. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Via Marche 64, Rome. Phone 06-482-1834. http://www.ristorantegiovanni.net.

Hostaria Antica Roma
Dining on the Appian Way, you'll be surrounded by Roman ruins—one wall of a dining room is actually an ancient columbarium, which held ashes of the deceased. Hostaria Antica Roma is an ideal choice when visiting the Catacombs of San Callisto, but otherwise it's out of the way. On Tuesday or Thursday, the menu features traditional Roman specialties, as well as the standard fare. Open daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Via Appia Antica 87, Rome. Phone 06-513-2888. http://www.anticaroma.it.

Hostaria dell'Orso di Guantiero Marchesi
One of the icons of the Roman dining scene, the Hosteria dell'Orso is a gem located in an opulent 15th-century palace with a view of the Tiber. It has been a favorite of dignitaries ranging from Goethe to Clark Gable, and is known for its contrast of ancient architecture, modern furnishings and an unforgettable menu that includes a tasty seared scallop salad with ginger, and homemade tortelli with pumpkin and marjoram. The wine list is impressive. Monday-Saturday for dinner. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Via dei Soldati 25c, Rome. Phone 06-6830-1192. http://www.hdo.it.

Il Drappo
Long, flowing draperies give this gracious Sardinian restaurant in Centro Storico a homey touch. Try the zuppa di carciofi (artichoke soup), maialino arrosto (roast suckling pig) or calamari ripieni (stuffed baby squid). Top things off with the fruit pie. Dine in Il Drappo's garden or in the air-conditioned dining room. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended for dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Vicolo del Malpasso 9 (off Via Giulia), Rome. Phone 06-687-7365. http://www.ildrappo.it.

L'Antico Arco
This vine-swathed restaurant attracts foodies with its slightly nouvelle flavors, 400 wines and homemade Sicilian cassata dessert. The seasonal menu is graced by such delights as spaghetti cacio e pepe con fiori di zucca crocanti (spaghetti with aged cheese, pepper and fried zucchini flowers), carpaccio caldo con i carciofi (sauteed beef served on a bed of artichokes) and petti di faraona con tartufi (quail breasts with shredded truffle and a potato tart). The gracious 18th-century building stands on the hill above Trastevere, next to the renowned Bar Gianicolo and the Porta San Pancrazio, a pink and white triumphal arch. Open daily for dinner. Closed two weeks in August. Reserve a week in advance. $$$. Most major credit cards. Piazzale Aurelio 7, Rome. Phone 06-581-5274. http://www.anticoarco.it.

La Pariolina
This modern and stylish eatery specializes in gourmet pizzas—both the Roman thin-crust and the Neapolitan fluffy-crust varieties. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$. Viale Parioli 93, Rome. Phone 06-808-6002. http://www.lapariolina.com.

La Pergola
This may be one of the grandest restaurants in all of Italy, boasting a panoramic view of the city, a mouthwatering menu that changes seasonally and a world-class wine list. Every detail is considered: Flanders linen, fine porcelain and a well-trained waitstaff that works so seamlessly they've been compared to a Russian ballet. Everything is so well-done that it's possible for diners to close their eyes and simply point to the menu for an unforgettable choice, but the best option may be to ask the advice of the knowledgeable, friendly and multilingual staff. A five- or seven-course wine tasting menu is offered most nights. Open Tuesday-Saturday 7:30-11:30 pm. Reservations must be made at least a month in advance. Dress formally. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Via Cadlolo 101 (located inside the Cavalieri Hilton), Rome. Phone 06-350-9221. http://www.romecavalieri.com/lapergola.php.

La Taverna del Ghetto Kosher
In the heart of the Jewish Quarter, this restaurant serves typical Jewish-Roman dishes. Kosher Italian cuisine is not well-known outside of Italy, but many Romans consider it the best example of the city's culinary traditions. If they're serving tortino di alicotti all'indivia, be sure to try it. Open daily for lunch, Saturday-Thursday for dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. Via Portico d'Ottavia 8, Rome. Phone 06-6880-9771. http://www.latavernadelghetto.com.

La Terazza dell'Eden
The understated rooftop restaurant in the stylish Hotel Eden is an island of tranquility between the hustle and bustle of the Spanish Steps and the Via Veneto. Traditional Italian pastas, seafood and meat courses are prepared with a particularly delicate hand. Combined with a spectacular view of the city, La Terazza is a highlight of the Roman dining experience. Open daily for brunch, lunch and dinner. Most major credit cards. Via Ludovisi 49, Rome. Phone 06-4781-2752. http://www.edenroma.com/en/laterrazzadelleden.

Le Mani in Pasta
By far one of the best finds in Trastevere, this tiny restaurant specializes in food—basta. Le mani in pasta means "hands in the food"—the kitchen is in plain view to all the patrons, and the chef watches to make sure diners are happy. Dishes change with the seasons, but the mixed seafood antipasta is always a good way to start. Lobster linguine and thick cuts of grilled meat are also staples. Daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. Reservations required. $$. Most major credit cards. Via dei Genovesi 37, Rome. Phone 06-581-6017. http://www.lemaniinpasta.com.

Osteria Margutta
This impossibly romantic restaurant is located on a charming street. The all-red Ostaria Margutta serves specialties such as linguine and prawns, tortellini made in-house and baked turbot with potatoes, all in a candlelit setting. Changing art exhibits add to the decor. Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. Via Margutta 82, Rome. Phone 06-323-1025. http://www.osteriamargutta.it.

Palazzetto International Wine Academy
Go for the views of the Spanish Steps but stay for the gourmet cuisine served there in Rome's largest wine bar. The International Wine Academy has become the leading wine school in the city. Food is prepared to go with the wine, not the other way around. Open daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. Terrace bar open noon-7 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$. All major credit cards. Vicolo del Bottino 8, Rome. Phone 06-69934-1000. http://www.ilpalazzettoroma.com.

Piperno
This well-known destination in the old Jewish Quarter is famous for its beautiful carciofi alla giudia (deep-fried artichokes) and fritto misto (mixed fried meat, fish and vegetables). The wonderful and elegant cuisine is matched by the historically significant setting, secluded in a little piazza engulfed by the Palazzo Cenci. Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for lunch. Closed August. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Via Monte de' Cenci 9, Rome. Phone 06-6880-6629. http://www.ristorantepiperno.com.

Pizzeria La Montecarlo
In summer, the alley outside this pizzeria is filled with tables of boisterous Romans. In winter, the crowds move indoors, where the walls display hundreds of photos of Italy's most famous actors, singers, writers and politicians posing with the staff. The service is faster than it is polite, but the pizzas are great, the pasta is some of the best in Rome, and the price is fair for the quality. Start with a plate of fritti misti, which includes the most traditional Roman appetizers: fried zucchini flowers with anchovies, suppli (rice balls stuffed with mozzarella and tomato, breaded and fried) and olive ascolane (fried olives stuffed with pork). Then try the calzone (pizza folded over on itself and filled with ham, cheese and egg) or the best carbonara (pasta in an egg-and-bacon sauce, with lots of black pepper and Parmesan) in Rome. Finally, finish with tiramisu. Open daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. Closed for two weeks in August. $. No credit cards. Vicolo Savelli 13 (near Piazza Navona), Rome. Phone 06-686-1877. http://www.lamontecarlo.it.

Pizzeria Panattoni "Ai Marmi"
This pizzeria—probably the best-known in Rome—is commonly called l'obitorio, "the morgue," because of its minimalist interior. Rectangular marble tables fill the large, white room. Despite the simple decor, it's packed most nights with lively crowds, often including celebrities. The wood-burning oven is in the corner, so you can watch the hypnotizing pizza-making process. Open daily except Wednesday for dinner. Reservations not accepted. $. No credit cards. Viale Trastevere 53-59, Trastevere, Rome. Phone 06-580-0919.

Ristorante '34'
This small restaurant is tucked between the shops where big-name designers sell handbags and shoes. First-rate Roman dishes. Open daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. Via Mario de Fiori 34 (near the Spanish Steps), Rome. Phone 06-679-5091. http://www.al34.it.

Santopadre
The after-theater crowd gathers in this restaurant that's both rustic and elegant. Traditional Roman specialties include il cartoccio vegetale (seasonal vegetables baked in a bag) and tagliata di manzo (aged beef sliced and served on a bed of arugula and tomato wedges). Every Tuesday and Friday, fish selections augment the menu. Open Monday-Saturday for dinner. Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. Via Collina 18, Rome. Phone 06-474-5405.

Sora Lella
Founded by Italian showbiz giants Aldo Fabrizi and Sora Lella and run by their extended family, this restaurant is famous for its classic Roman cooking, though its prime location means prices are on the high side for what's offered. Try tonnarelli alla cuccagna (thick, twisted spaghetti with a vegetable and bacon sauce), gnocchi all'amatriciana (potato dumplings with tomato and bacon sauce) or coda alla vaccinara (stewed cow's tail). There are also several fresh-fish dishes. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Via di Ponte Quattro Capi 16 (on Tiber Island, between the synagogue and Trastevere), Rome. Phone 06-686-1601. http://www.soralella.com.

Taverna Giulia
This lovely, comfortable restaurant serves traditional Ligurian food on a quiet street at the north end of beautiful Via Giulia. At the top of the list are the dishes made with Genovese pesto, such as gnocchi and lasagna, as well as the delicate torta pasqualina, a vegetable dish with layers of pastry. Creme brulee is a favorite dessert. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Vicolo dell'Oro 23, Rome. Phone 06-686-9768. http://www.tavernagiulia.it.

Taverna Trilussa
This bustling Trastevere eatery is so Roman that the menu is written in the local dialect (a charmingly translated English-language version is available on request). A mix of Romans and occasional visitors make up the crowd served by an experienced and helpful waitstaff and a menu ranging from traditional pasta and meat dishes to signature local dishes. Try the ravioli mimosa, the taverna's signature dish. Second-course dishes can be made from imported beef, and the millefoglie dessert is delicious. There are two wine lists: one focusing on underrated regional bottles, another focusing on the rest of Italy and a few foreign choices. Open Monday-Saturday from 7 pm. $$. Visa and MasterCard accepted. Via del Politeama 23, Trastevere, Rome. Phone 06-581-8918.

Tram Tram
The name of this bustling little eatery comes from the tram that passes in front of the establishment and the old-fashioned wooden tram seats in the smaller of the two dining areas. In the traditional Roman neighborhood of San Lorenzo, Tram Tram's Puglian-inspired cuisine is loved by locals, but it's a little too far off the beaten track for most tourists. The restaurant is crowded and service is uneven at best, but the food is wonderful and the bill is refreshingly free of sticker shock. Try the pappardella Tram Tram—noodles in a sauce of lamb strips and roasted peppers. The wine list is ample with many unusual choices for the adventurous. Open daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. Via dei Reti 44, Rome. Phone 06-490-416.

Trattoria da Giggetto al Portico d'Ottavia
Just short of becoming a Rome cliche, this landmark eatery nevertheless features a tasty menu served with a breathtaking backdrop—the portico of Ottavia. Still family-run, still using authentic Jewish-Roman recipes, it bears the official cucinaromana designation. Open daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Via del Portico d'Ottavia 21 (near the Theater of Marcellus), Rome. Phone 06-686-1105. http://www.giggetto.it.

Cuisines
Asian
Jaipur
Rome has several Indian restaurants, but Jaipur is the largest and produces North Indian specialties in a clay tandoori oven. The prices, service, style and cleanliness also elevate it over its neighborhood competitors. Daily except Monday for lunch, daily for dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. Via San Francesco a Ripa 56, Rome. Phone 06-580-3992. http://www.ristorantejaipur.it.

Thai Inn
These Thai chefs would stand out in any city, as would the kindly, English-speaking staff. Christmas lights, blue lanterns, aquariums, bamboo matting, fake flowers and butterflies create a tranquil atmosphere. Daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. Does not accept American Express or Diners Club. Via Federico Ozanam 94, Monteverde (Bus 44 from Piazza Venezia—the stop before Via Nadina Helbig), Rome. Phone 06-582-03145.

Thien Kim
This first-class restaurant serves traditional Vietnamese dishes in a quiet nook near the bustle of the Lungotevere. Try the calamari with ginger and the frog legs in green coconut curry. The mixed starters and soups (pho) are renowned. Open Monday-Saturday for dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Via Giulia 201, Rome. Phone 06-6830-7832.

Zen Sushi
Pretty good sushi, sashimi and tempura served on a revolving carousel. For dinner, try the selection of fish brought on a wooden boat and finish it off with excellent coffee—this is Italy, after all. Daily except Monday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner only. $$$. Most major credit cards. Via degli Scipioni 243, Rome. Phone 06-321-3420. http://www.zenworld.it.

Vegetarian
Il Margutta
Vegetarian restaurants are sparse in Rome, but Il Margutta is a refined, haute option. Its cooks use only organic vegetables and wines for its contemporary dishes, prepared in a sleek, modern setting. Even carnivores are favorably impressed with the rich, complex offerings. You may recognize this lovely street, near the Spanish Steps, from the movie Roman Holiday. Jazz concerts are held most Tuesdays after dinner. On Sunday and holidays, the "festivity brunch" offers a buffet and live music for 25 euros. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Via Margutta 118, Rome. Phone 06-3265-0557. http://www.ilmargutta.it.

Breakfast & Brunch
Bibli
A relaxing cafe and bookstore in the Trastevere area, Bibli serves a light breakfast buffet on Saturday morning and a full brunch Sunday starting at 12:30 pm. It's small but comfortable if you can get a table. In the afternoons and evenings, there are poetry readings and live acoustic music. Open Tuesday-Sunday for lunch and dinner, Monday for dinner only. $. Most major credit cards. Via dei Fienaroli 28, Trastevere, Rome. Phone 06-581-4534. http://www.bibli.it.

Caffe Doney
Every Sunday, the Excelsior's restaurant hosts an elegant brunch that mixes live jazz with exquisite food and wines. Sunday 12:30-3:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Brunch is 50 euros (including a glass of spumante, but not wine). Most major credit cards. Via Vittorio Veneto 125, Rome. Phone 06-4708-2783. http://www.westin.com/excelsiorrome.

Chiostro del Bramante
The cloisters that surrounded a 16th-century church now serve as a venue for some of Rome's most exclusive exhibitions and conferences. This fabulous structure, complete with colonnades and Raffaelo's fresco Le Sibille, is interesting enough as a museum, but on Sunday (10 am-3 pm), it also serves one of the best brunches in Rome for 28 euros. $$. Most major credit cards. Via della Pace (the street leads to the front door; there is no number), Rome. Phone 06-6880-9035. http://www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

'Gusto
A leader in the multimedia trend, 'Gusto is a large space with shopping, a wine bar, a pizzeria, a restaurant and live music at night—and, of course, brunch. The fare is on the lighter side, with options ranging from soups and salads to pasta and couscous. Daily for lunch and dinner till 1 am. Live music after 11 pm Tuesday and Thursday. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9, Rome. Phone 06-322-6273. http://www.gusto.it.

Coffeehouses
La Casa del Caffe Tazza d'Oro
Some of the world's best coffee is worth the wait (up to 15 minutes in high tourist season). The capuccino is to die for. When lines are small, the staff can prepare a shakerato (iced coffee with sugar, shaken like a cocktail until it becomes thick and frothy). Coffee ground on-site is available for purchase and can be shipped worldwide. Open Monday-Saturday 7 am-8 pm. $. Most major credit cards, though there is a minimum charge of 5 euros. Via degli Orfani 84 (around the corner from the Pantheon), Rome. Phone 06-679-2768. http://www.tazzadorocoffeeshop.com.

Sant'Eustachio il Caffe
Since it opened in 1938, this cafe has become famous among Romans for its unique coffee. The baristi must sign an agreement not to divulge the secret of its preparation, and the position of the espresso machines hides the process from view. Ask for the zuccherato (with sugar). Beans ground on-site are available for purchase and can be shipped worldwide. Courses about coffee are also offered. Open daily except Monday 8:30 am-1 am (stays open slightly later on Friday and Saturday). $. No credit cards. Piazza Sant'Eustachio 82, Rome. Phone 06-6880-2048. http://www.santeustachioilcaffe.it.

Seafood
F.I.S.H.
Rome's Fine International Seafood House offers something for all seafood aficionados. On one side of the restaurant, French oysters and Japanese sushi dominate the raw menu. On the other side, Asian- and Mediterranean-inspired cooked seafood reigns. The house favorites are Tris Tar Tar, tuna spezzatino and the exotic fruit platter. Open daily except Monday for dinner. $$. Major credit cards. Via dei Serpenti 16, Rome. Phone 06-4782-4962. http://www.f-i-s-h.it.

La Rosetta
A famous restaurant just off the Pantheon, this place is considered by many to be the finest seafood restaurant in Rome. Go expecting a culinary treat and a lengthy meal. Dinner is expensive; the food at lunch is just as good and the price far more reasonable. Try the fish soup. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for dinner only. Reservations recommended. Dress up for dinner. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Via della Rosetta 8, Rome. Phone 06-686-1002. http://www.larosetta.com.

Pierluigi
A popular source for centuries-old Roman recipes, Pierluigi is as beloved as ever. Begin with one of the specialties: pasta e fagioli (pasta and beans) or minestra broccoli (broccoli soup). Follow up with spaghetti con frutti di mare (spaghetti and seafood sauce), and then proceed to pesce al sale (fish baked in a salt shell) or calamari e gamberi fritti (fried squid and shrimp). Be sure to dine outside in the warmer months—the location is beautiful. Open daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Piazza de' Ricci 144 (between Piazza Farnese and the Vatican), Rome. Phone 06-686-1302. http://www.pierluigi.it.

Quattro Mori
When Pope Benedict XVI was still Cardinal Ratzinger, he often walked five minutes from the Vatican to enjoy Rome's best Sardinian seafood: The scallops, scampi and swordfish are delicious. Try the pasta served with bottarga, a rich and intensely savory roe of either tuna or gray mullet. Very charming service and now almost always full. Daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Via Santa Maria al Fornaci 8a, Rome. Phone 06-639-0195.

Ristorante da Vincenzo
The friendly service at this seafood restaurant is surpassed only by the quality of the food. Begin the evening with a Sicilian or Sardinian dry white wine from Vincenzo's well-stocked cellar. Order the antipasto misto al mare (assorted marinated seafood). For the first course, ask for penne or linguine all'astice (short or long pasta with lobster sauce). Indecisive gourmands can request an assaggio (sampler) of at least three kinds. For the main course, choose between mazzancole alla griglia (grilled king prawns), rombo e patate al forno (baked turbot with potatoes) and spigola in acqua pazza (sea bass boiled in seasoned water). Let the server fillet the fish for you. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations necessary. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Via Castelfidardo 4 (near the Baths of Diocletian), Rome. Phone 06-484-596. http://www.ristorantidiroma.com/davincenzo/homeeng.htm.

Siciliainbocca
Sicilians prepare the best fish in Italy—and this charming restaurant showcases that skill. The fish arrives fresh daily from the channel between the island and Tunisia. Try the involtini di pesce spada (thin slices of swordfish wrapped around a traditional stuffing of raisins, pine nuts, bread crumbs and herbs) and one of the exquisite Sicilian wines from the cellar. Finish with cannoli or one of the other ricotta-based desserts. There is a second location in the Prati quarter on Via Faa di Bruno, and a third in Trastevere on Via Garibaldi. Open daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Does not accept American Express or Diners Club. Via Flaminia 390 (above Piazza del Popolo), Rome. Phone 06-324-0187. http://www.siciliainboccaweb.com.

Steak Houses
Al Girarrosto Toscano
This steak house in the Prati area specializes in steak fiorentina (prepared as in Florence), as well as other Tuscan dishes. It serves fried chicken and boasts that its meatballs were one of Fellini's favorites. Wide selection of wines. Finish off the meal with one of the desserts made in-house. Open daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Via Germanico 58/60 (a few blocks north of Piazza Risorgimento, near the Vatican), Rome. Phone 06-3972-5717. http://www.ristorantedaltoscano.it.

Caminetto
Great steaks (said to be a favorite among Italy's soccer players), wine and atmosphere, along with light Italian cooking. The restaurant also has excellent service—a rarity in even the best restaurants in Rome. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Viale Parioli 89, Rome. Phone 06-808-3946. http://www.caminettoroma.com.

Da Tullio
No one treats prime beef better than Tuscans—such is the case with the family that runs this homey and rustic, but stylish, restaurant just off the Piazza Barberini. Highlights include the long pasta dishes with truffle shavings or wild mushroom and parsley sauce. Cooked over an open fire, the tagliata (sliced beef grilled and garnished with basil and Parmesan cheese) will satisfy any craving for top-grade, aged meat. Superbly executed fish and seafood entrees are distinguished as well. Local gourmands crowd this place. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Via San Nicola da Tolentino 26, Rome. Phone 06-474-5560. http://www.tullioristorante.it.

Girarrosto Fiorentino
For more than 35 years, this steak house has been a solid favorite for dining just off the Via Veneto. It specializes in Florentine steaks and an assortment of fish and pasta. Great atmosphere for dining in the cooler months. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Via Sicilia 46, Rome. Phone 06-4288-0660. http://www.girarrostofiorentino.it.

Other Options
Gelato (ice cream) has a long tradition in Italy, and it still resembles the treats Michelangelo and Bernini might have enjoyed. A gelateria that calls its product artigianale crafts its wares in-house. Whether you take your gelato after a long walk in the blazing heat, after dinner or at 2 am between visits to bars, there's no better way to satisfy a sweet tooth.
Caffe Giolitti
The air-conditioned, pink- and green-marbled gelateria, with its fin-de-siecle ambience, offers a nice break from the busy streets outside. There's better gelato to be found, but this is Rome's most famous. Try zabaione or the champagne ice cream, and expect to meet Silvio Berlusconi, who loves this place. You can have excellent tea and coffee there, too. Daily 7 am-2 am. Via Uffici del Vicario 40, Rome. Phone 06-699-1243. http://www.giolitti.it.

Da Quinto Gelateria
This small ice-cream shop is right next to Piazza Navona, on a street full of Rome's best nightspots. Day or night, the line to buy ice cream flows out the door and tends to obstruct even the foot traffic along the road. The wait is well worth it, however. Many claim it's the best in Rome. Try the affogato (ice cream drowned in brandy or rum). Open 10 am to very late, almost until dawn in the summer. Via di Tor Millina 15, Rome. Phone 06-686-5657.

Gelateria della Palma
This colorful, chaotic gelateria, just behind the Pantheon, is always full of locals and tourists. The taste of the ice cream is exceptionally good, but this place is better known for its quantity of flavors. There are more than 20 flavors of chocolate alone and hundreds of others. Try kiwi, watermelon, wild strawberry, limoncello, sesame seed or honey. Open 8 am-midnight (sometimes later, depending on how busy it is). Via della Maddalena 20/23, Rome. Phone 06-688-06-752.

Gelateria di San Crispino
It's not hard to find great ice cream in the eternal city, but this gelateria is a cut above, specializing in meringue ice creams and fresh fruit sorbets. Open daily except Tuesday, noon-12:30 am (until 1:30 am Friday and Saturday). Via della Panetteria 42, Rome. Phone 06-679-3924. http://www.ilgelatodisancrispino.it.

Security
Etiquette
Contrary to the relaxed image many have of Italy, the Italian business world emphasizes formality and procedure. Get assistance from a local contact, go through proper channels, and always present yourself and your firm as polished and accomplished.

Appointments—Having an intermediary is essential. Without someone to make the appropriate contacts, you'll find it hard to get much done. A go-between can help schedule meetings, which should be set up well in advance. It is very difficult—nearly impossible, in fact—to call on a businessperson unannounced. Confirm your meetings a day or two before they're set to take place. Punctuality is expected throughout the country. Your Italian counterparts may or may not be as prompt: Those in the northern part of the country generally are; those in the south are less so.

Personal Introductions—Greet others with a handshake and a slight nod. Titles are important: Use any professional titles supplied on introduction or, better yet, ask for a list of the participants and their official titles in advance. Use the title and last name—plus the formal third-person address if you speak any Italian—until instructed otherwise. On a social level, Romans often bestow two cheek kisses to friends of friends. Be alert and follow cues.

Negotiating—The pace of negotiations is slow, and final decisions are not made by lower-level functionaries. The chain of command in Italian business is both vertical and horizontal, so decision-making can take a long time. Last-minute demands can be made by a person who enters the negotiations late in the game. In fact, this is sometimes used as a negotiating tool. Remain patient and calm at all times.

Business Entertaining—Business dinners are common, but will typically involve only a few key players. If you are hosting the dinner, ask your Italian contact whom to invite. Tip the waiter ahead of time and ask that the bill be quietly given to you, should you wish to pay. Otherwise, you will have to request the check; it will not be brought to you automatically.

Body Language—Italians typically converse while standing close together. Handshakes can extend longer than in other cultures, and locals tend to gesture when talking. The hand signs are continuous and nuanced, though none are likely to be made by a foreigner inadvertently. More often, visitors start to imitate the gestures without understanding the precise meanings—a practice we'd caution against.

Gift Giving—Small but high-quality gifts are appropriate in some situations: Ask your intermediary for advice. Take flowers, chocolates or lavishly wrapped pastries to someone's home. Exercise caution in giving wine: Many Italians are experts; if you're not, select a different gift.

Conversation—Very little is off-limits in Italian conversation, but avoid being critical of Italian society and culture, even if your host is. Soccer is a passion and an easy topic (though discussing individual players rather than teams may be safer), as are art, travel and Italian culture. The less-positive side of Italy, including racism charges, Mussolini, World War II and the Mafia, is probably better avoided.

Personal Safety
Rome, like any big city, has its fair share of crime. Fortunately, few incidents involve gangs or violence. Great progress has been made by Rome's mayor, Gianni Alemanno, to diminish petty crime but it has made those vagrants still out there more aggressive than usual. There are many more police officers patrolling tourist areas than in previous years, but one should still be cautious. The buses that connect to St. Peter's, the Colosseum, the Catacombs and Termini Station are crawling with pickpockets, as are the subway trains.

Don't tempt thieves with flashy, expensive jewelry, dangling or open purses, easily accessible wallets or unlocked cars. Don't leave handbags or backpacks open, and make sure your most valuable possessions are close to your body or back in the hotel safe. Hold on tightly to purses and briefcases, and avoid the side of the sidewalk nearest traffic (purse snatchers sometimes operate from the backs of motorbikes). Keep physical contact with your belongings, even when seated at a cafe table or outdoor restaurant (for example, handbags should loop over an ankle or knee, rather than a chair back).

Be alert. Make eye contact with potential pickpockets. Should an incident begin, shout and point while gripping your belongings. Don't be afraid of causing a scene: Locals and transit workers will quickly come to your defense.

Note: Street musicians—many of them classically trained Romanians or self-taught Roma—are largely innocent of such scams. Many support large families. Locals consider it bella figura (good style) to donate spare change to talented buskers and sincerely needy beggars.

Be wary of fast-talking "guides" or "hotel representatives" in the train station or at tourist sites. They are either swindlers or serving as a diversion, as another crook strips you of your possessions. You can appeal to the police if there is a dispute over the price for any type of service. Changes to the taxi charter have put caps on prices, so be sure you check the printed price list or ask for an estimated price before entering the cab.

A small percentage of Roman soccer fans are apt to become violent, but there is increasing violence by fans of visiting teams, especially England. Be attentive to which team the people around you support. Serious incidents are extremely rare, but it's better to stay on the safe side. Sporting the wrong jersey, or even wearing the wrong colors, can sometimes lead to problems. As a rule, it's advisable to leave the stadium early.

Women may endure more attention than at home. Flattering comments such as "bellissima" (most beautiful) are culturally acceptable—touching is not. Scream and slap; most Romans will leap to your aid.

In Rome, there are four different law-enforcement organizations: the city police, polizia municipale (in blue and white); the state police, polizia di stato (also in blue and white); the paramilitary police, carabinieri (in designer black and red); and the finance police, guardia di finanza (in brown and green). Although each has a specialization, they all cover the same jurisdiction. Appeal to any of them, regardless of the problem. All four types tend to speak at least basic English and are eager to ensure that tourists are not cheated (after all, tourism is Rome's biggest business). Finally, do not be alarmed by machine guns at the airport or in the hands of traffic cops: The heavy weaponry is routine.

In an emergency, phone 113 for the police, 115 for fire and 118 for medical assistance. For the latest information on travel safety, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.

Health
Medical facilities are generally very good, and the water, although heavily chlorinated, is safe to drink. Locals stick to bottled water, but it's a matter of preference—the tap water is fine. Rome can get particularly hot in summer—carrying a bottle of water can help prevent dehydration. Refills from the street nozzles are perfectly safe, but keep out of the fountains. Also, as everywhere, take your most comfortable pair of walking shoes, as Rome is a city best seen on foot.

Most pharmacies are open Monday-Friday 8:30 am-1 pm and 3:30-7 pm. They rotate night duty (7 pm-8:30 am), publishing the schedule daily in newspapers, such as Il Messeggero or Il Tempo. A list of 24-hour pharmacies is offered in A Guest In Rome tourism guide, available in all tourist offices. Many also post a sign outside, indicating the nearest open venue.

Pharmacists can sometimes aid travelers with basic prescriptions such as birth-control refills or medicine for conjunctivitis (pink eye); for a minor ailment, ask first before tracking down an English-language doctor. All medicine is given over the counter, so it helps to know the Italian name for your malady.

The two main hospitals in the city center are Policlinico Umberto I, located on Viale del Policlinco close to the Policlinco metro stop on the B line (phone 06-49971; http://www.policlinicoumberto1.it); and Ospedale San Giovanni-Addolorata, located on Via dell'Amba Aradam 9 (phone 06-77051; http://www.hsangiovanni.roma.it).

For more information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.

Disabled Advisory
As an ancient city with limited auto access, Rome can be difficult for disabled travelers to navigate.

The public-transit system and the train system both have special services for the disabled, but trams are the only sure bet. Otherwise, transportation must be reserved at least 24 hours in advance (a week ahead is best). There is an office at Termini Station, open daily 7 am-9 pm, that offers information on services for the disabled and helps to make special arrangements if contacted in advance. Phone 06-488-1726.

For up-to-date information on accessibility for trams, buses and subways, call ATAC Monday-Saturday 8 am-8 pm. Phone 800-154-451. http://www.trenitalia.it or http://www.atac.roma.it.

Clubs and restaurants are also becoming more aware of access issues. Listings for them in the local Roma C'e now include wheelchair accessibility.

Dos & Don'ts
Do feel free to drink the water from the many street nozzles. It's the same water drunk by astronauts in space and what is sold as bottled water throughout the world.

Do pack a good insect repellent. Large tiger mosquitos from Asia do not carry diseases but do plague the city in the summer months.

Don't bathe in the city's fountains. They are considered monuments, and you will risk being arrested or fined.

Do order a pizza with ham and figs or potatoes and rosemary—popular, traditional Roman snacks.

Don't expect to eat dinner in a local restaurant before 7:30 or 8 pm, and lunch is rarely served before 12:30 or 1:00 pm.

Do take time to admire the cobbled streets in the city center. Many of the city center's main traffic streets have already been paved with asphalt, but there is little chance they will disappear entirely.

Don't forget to look up when walking down Rome's quaint streets. Many old buildings have remnants of frescoes and original statues on the facades. And you might see wonderful Roman faces people-watching from the windows.

Hotels
Hotel Overview
Rome is a popular international business and vacation spot. Its accommodations cover every category, from small family-style pensions and bed-and-breakfasts to international luxury hotels. Most hotels are located in the city center or near the airport.

Hotels near the Forum tend to be noisy at night, and although the area near Termini station is cheap and convenient, it's not completely safe at night. For charm and convenience, look in the Navona-Pantheon areas. Younger visitors may prefer funky Monti or chic Trastevere.

Hotel Listings

Phone: (39) 06-678-4343
Fax: (39) 06-6994-0297
Toll Free: (39)
Albergo Del Senato
Piazza della Rotonda 73 00186
info@albergodelsenato.it  http://www.albergodelsenato.it
56 Guest Rooms • 1 Meeting Room
Location: Facing the Pantheon, in the very center of Rome
Nearby Points of Interest: Piazza Navona (Monument) - 500 mtr • Pantheon (Monument) - 10 mtr • Treni Fountain (Monument) - 500 mtr



Phone: (39) 06-322-3993
Fax: (39) 06-322-1435
Toll Free: (39)
Aldrovandi Palace
Via Ulisse Aldrovandi, 15 00197
hotel@aldrovandi.com  http://www.aldrovandi.com
132 Guest Rooms • 11 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s]
Location: Adjacent to Borghese Gardens; near Via Veneto & Spanish Steps
Nearby Points of Interest: Modern Art National Gallery (Museum) - 1 km • Villa Giulia Museum (Museum) - 1 km • Galleria Borghese Museum (Museum) - 1 km



Phone: (39) 06-47493
Fax: (39) 06-4743601
Toll Free: (39) 800-843-3311
Ambasciatori Palace Hotel
Via Vittorio Veneto, 62 00187
info@ambasciatoripalace.com  http://www.ambasciatoripalace.com
150 Guest Rooms • 10 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: Central downtown, in business and shopping area
Nearby Points of Interest:



Phone: (39) 06-328711
Fax: (39) 06-3600-3995
Toll Free: (39)
Art by the Spanish Steps
Via Margutta, 56 00187
info@hotelart.it  http://www.hotelart.it
46 Guest Rooms • Restaurant[s]
Location: Near the Spanish Steps/Piazza di Spagna
Nearby Points of Interest: Spanish Steps • Borghese Museum & Gardens - 100 mtr • Trevi Fountain - 700 mtr



Phone: (39) 06-489911
Fax: (39) 06-48991 700
Toll Free: (39) 800-843-3311
Hotel Artemide
Via Nazionale, 22 00184
info@hotelartemide.it  http://www.spacehotels.it
85 Guest Rooms • 4 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: Historical centre of Rome
Nearby Points of Interest: Opera Theater (Theater) - 100 mtr • Trevi Fountain (Main tourist sights) - 1 km • Spanish Steps (Main tourist sights) - 1 km



Phone: (39) 06-446-9908
Fax: (39) 06-445-3329
Toll Free: (39)
Hotel Astoria Garden
Via Vittorio Bachelet 8 00185
hotelastoriagarden@tiscalinet.it  http://www.hotelastoriagarden.it
35 Guest Rooms
Location: Near Piazza Repubblica
Nearby Points of Interest: Piazza Di Spagrna (Coloseum) - 8 blk • Trevi Fountain (Fountain of Majades) - 4 blk • Terme di Diocleziano (Shopping area) - 5 blk



Phone: (39) 06-687-3233
Fax: (39) 06-687-2300
Toll Free: (39) 800-862-038
Hotel Atlante Star
Via Giovanni Vitelleschi, 34 00193
info@atlantehotels.com  http://www.atlantehotels.com
80 Guest Rooms • 2 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: Near St Peters' Square (Vatican Museum) and Saint Angel Castle
Nearby Points of Interest: San Peter's Basilica - 100 mtr • Vatican Museum - 100 mtr • Saint Angel Castle - 50 mtr



Phone: (39) 06-485951
Fax: (39) 06-482-7492
Toll Free: (39) 800-223-9832
Atlantico Hotel
Via Cavour 23 00184
hb@bettojahotels.it  http://www.bettojahotels.it
68 Guest Rooms • 2 Meeting Rooms
Location: Downtown, between St Mary Major and Termini railway station
Nearby Points of Interest: Colosseum, Foro Romano (Monuments) - 800 mtr • Palazzo Massimo (Museum) - 200 mtr



Phone: (39) 06-487-2001
Fax: (39) 06-485994
Toll Free: (39)
Barocco Hotel
Piazza Barberini 9 Entrance: Via Purificazione 4 00187
info@hotelbarocco.com  http://www.hotelbarocco.com
40 Guest Rooms
Location: Downtown/Historical Centre
Nearby Points of Interest: Spanish Steps (Monument) - 300 mtr • Trevi Fountain (Monument) - 300 mtr • Colosseum (Monument) - 1 km



Phone: (39) 06-488931
Fax: (39) 06-482-4266
Toll Free: (39) 800-457-4000
Bernini Bristol Hotel, A SINA Hotel
Piazza Barberini, 23 00187
reservationsbb@sinahotels.it  http://www.berninibristol.com
127 Guest Rooms • 8 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: At the beginning of famous Via Veneto, near Spanish Steps
Nearby Points of Interest: Fontana de'Trevi (Monument) - 0.5 km • Via Veneto (Shopping) - 0.1 km • Colosseum (Monument) - 1 km



Phone: (39) 06-445-7770
Fax: (39) 06-445-0749
Toll Free: (39) 800-WESTERN
Best Western Hotel Canada
Via Vicenza 58 00185
info@hotelcanadaroma.com  http://www.hotelcanadaroma.com
70 Guest Rooms • 4 Meeting Rooms
Location: Central Rome, 1/4 mi from Termini Station
Nearby Points of Interest: National Museum of Rome (Museum) - .5 km • Colosseum/Roman Forum (Monument) - 1 km • Via Veneto and Spanish Step (Monument) - 1 km



Phone: (39) 06-476811
Fax: (39) 06-474-5125
Toll Free: (39) 800-WESTERN
Best Western Hotel Universo
Via Principe Amedeo 5/b 00184
universo@rhr.it  http://www.hoteluniverso.com
199 Guest Rooms • 12 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: In downtown Rome
Nearby Points of Interest: Terme Di Diocleziano (Museum) - 2 km • Museo Nazionale Romano (Museum) - 2 km



Phone: (39) 06-472861
Fax: (39) 06-482-4822
Toll Free: (39) 800-WESTERN
Best Western Mondial Hotel
Via Torino 127 00184
mondial.rm@bestwestern.it  http://www.hotelmondialrome.com
84 Guest Rooms • 2 Meeting Rooms
Nearby Points of Interest: km km



Phone: (39) 06-322-4042
Fax: (39) 06-322-7373
Toll Free: (39) 800-WESTERN
Best Western Rivoli Hotel
Via Torquato Taramelli 7 00197
info@hotelrivoliroma.com  http://www.hotelrivoliroma.com
54 Guest Rooms • Restaurant[s]
Location: In Parioli district
Nearby Points of Interest:



Phone: (39) 06-422901
Fax: (39) 06-4229-0000
Toll Free: (39) 888-626-7265
Boscolo Hotel Aleph
Via di San Basilio, 15 00187
reservation@boscolo.com  http://www.aleph.boscolohotels.com
96 Guest Rooms • 1 Meeting Room • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: In most exclusive part of the city; near Via Veneto
Nearby Points of Interest: Colosseo (Monumento) - 2 km • Piazza di Spagna (Monumento) - 1 km • Musei Capitolini (Museo) - 2 km



Phone: (39) 06-489381
Fax: (39) 06-489-3800
Toll Free: (39) 888-626-7265
Boscolo Hotel Exedra
Piazza della Repubblica, 47 00185
reservation@exedra.boscolo.com  http://www.boscolohotels.com
238 Guest Rooms • 3 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: Downtown, next to Diocletians Baths and near to railway station
Nearby Points of Interest: Fori Imperiali (Archeological site) - 1 km • Via Condotti (Shopping Area) - 2 km • Spanish Steps (Monument) - 1500 mtr



Phone: (39) 06-478719
Fax: (39) 06-47871800
Toll Free: (39) 888-626-7265
Boscolo Palace
Via Vittorio Veneto 70 00187
reservation@palace.boscolo.com  http://www.boscolo.com
94 Guest Rooms • 3 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: In the very hearth of Via Veneto, just few steps from Trevi Fountain
Nearby Points of Interest: Trevi Fountain (Monument) - 2 km • Circus Maximum (Monument) - 3 km • Navona Square - 2 km



Phone: (39) 06-488-3153
Fax: (39) 06-489-86316
Toll Free: (39) 800-843-3311
Hotel Britannia
Via Napoli 64 00184
info@hotelbritannia.it  http://www.spacehotels.it
34 Guest Rooms • Pets Allowed
Location: Near the train station
Nearby Points of Interest: Opera Theatre (Main Theatre) - 1 blk • Trevi Fountain (Monument) - 1 km • Colosseum (Monument) - 2 km



Phone: (39) 06-772801
Fax: (39) 06-7728-0801
Toll Free: (39)
Hotel Capo d'Africa
Via Capo d'Africa 54 00184
info@hotelcapodafrica.com  http://www.hotelcapodafrica.com
65 Guest Rooms • 3 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s]
Location: Heart of Imperial Rome, Colosseum, Domus Aurea, Roman Forum
Nearby Points of Interest: Colosseum - 2 blk • Roman Forum - 2 blk • Domus Aurea - 2 blk



Phone: (39) 06-675191
Fax: (39) 06-679-4496
Toll Free: (39)
Colonna Palace Hotel
Piazza di Monte Citorio 12 00186
http://www.itihotels.it
105 Guest Rooms • 1 Meeting Room • Restaurant[s]
Location: In the heart of Rome
Nearby Points of Interest: Vatican City • Colosseum • Roman Forum



Phone: (39) 06-488-3509
Fax: (39) 06-474-0209
Toll Free: (39)
Hotel Columbia
Via del Viminale 15 00184
info@hotelcolumbia.com  http://www.hotelcolumbia.com
45 Guest Rooms
Location: Main railway station Termini close to Opera House
Nearby Points of Interest: Rome (Historical city)



Phone: (39) 06-679-4661
Fax: (39) 06-679-0457
Toll Free: (39)
Hotel Condotti
Via Mario de' Fiori 37 00187
info@hotelcondotti.com  http://www.hotelcondotti.com
21 Guest Rooms
Location: Heart of Rome
Nearby Points of Interest: Piazza di Spagna (Monument) • Colosseum (Archaeolgical site) - 5 km • St Peter's (Basilica/Vatican) - 7 km



Phone: (39) 06-66420
Fax: (39) 06-663-7190
Toll Free: (39) 800-2-CROWNE
Crowne Plaza Rome-St Peter's
Via Aurelia Antica 415 00165
cpstpeters@hotel-invest.com  http://www.crowneplaza.com
321 Guest Rooms • 13 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s]
Location: Close to Vatican city and 4 km from the city centre
Nearby Points of Interest: Vatican City (Abbey) - 3 km • Villa Pamphili (Park) - 1 km • Historical city centre (Historical centre) - 4 km



Phone: (39) 06-6994-1505
Fax: (39) 06-6994-1501
Toll Free: (39) 800-44-UTELL
Hotel dei Borgognoni Roma
Via del Bufalo 126 (Piazza di Spagna) 00187
info@hotelborgognoni.it  http://www.hotelborgognoni.com
51 Guest Rooms • 2 Meeting Rooms • Pets Allowed
Location: City centre between Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain
Nearby Points of Interest: Trevi Fountain (Monument) - 2 blk • Spanish Steps (Monument) - 3 blk • Roman Forum (Monuments) - 5 blk



Phone: (39) 06-324771
Fax: (39) 06-3247-7801
Toll Free: (39)
Dei Mellini Hotel
Via Muzio Clementi 81 00193
info@hotelmellini.com  http://www.hotelmellini.com
80 Guest Rooms • 3 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s]
Location: Walking distance to Vatican City and Spanish Steps
Nearby Points of Interest: St Peter's Basilica (Church) - 1 km • Spanish Steps (Tourist attraction) - 1 km • Navona Square (Tourist attraction) - 1.5 km



Phone: (39) 06-679-2441
Fax: (39) 06-678-2400
Toll Free: (39)
Delle Nazioni Hotel
Via Poli 7 00187
nazioni@remarhotels.com  http://www.remarhotels.com
84 Guest Rooms • 1 Meeting Room • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Nearby Points of Interest: Trevi Fountain • Spanish Steps • Via Condotti



Phone: (39) 06-328881
Fax: (39) 06-3288-8888
Toll Free: (39) 800-223-6800
Hotel de Russie
Via del Babuino 9 00187
reservations.derussie@roccofortecollection.com  http://www.roccofortecollection.com
122 Guest Rooms • 6 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s]
Nearby Points of Interest: Spanish Steps (Monument) - 0.2 km • Fontana di Trevi (Monument) - 0.8 km • Vatican (Museum/Monument) - 3.8 km



Phone: (39) 06-478681
Fax: (39) 06-486998
Toll Free: (39)
Hotel Diana
Via Principe Amedeo 4 00184
info@hoteldianaroma.com  http://www.hoteldianaroma.com
170 Guest Rooms • 3 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: Downtown Rome
Nearby Points of Interest: Vatican City (Landmark) • Colisseum (Landmark) • Spanish Steps (Landmark)



Phone: (39) 06-699811
Fax: (39) 06-6992-2243
Toll Free: (39) 800-203-3232
Hotel D'Inghilterra
Via Bocca di Leone 14 00187
reservation.hir@royaldemeure.com  http://www.charminghotels.com/hoteldinghilterra
89 Guest Rooms • 4 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s]
Location: Set in a 17th-century building, near Spanish Steps
Nearby Points of Interest: Spanish Steps (Monument) • The Vatican (City) - 2 km • Fontana di Trevi (Monument)



Phone: (39) 06-367221
Fax: (39) 06-3600-4104
Toll Free: (39) 800-223-5652
The Duke Hotel
Via Archimede 69 00197
theduke@thedukehotel.com  http://www.thedukehotel.com
78 Guest Rooms • 3 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: Elegant residential area
Nearby Points of Interest: Contemporary & Modern Art (Museum) - 1 km • Auditorium of Rome (Park of music) - 1 km • Galleria Borghese (Museum) - 1 km



Phone: (39) 06-478121
Fax: (39) 06-482-1584
Toll Free: (39) 800-543-4300
Hotel Eden, a Royal Meridien Hotel
Via Ludovisi 49 00187
reservations@hotel-eden.it  http://www.hotel-eden.it
121 Guest Rooms • 2 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: Situated in central Rome, near shopping district
Nearby Points of Interest: Spanish steps (Monument) - 1 km • Trevi Fountain (Monument) - 2.5 km • Via Veneto (Street) - .5 km



Phone: (39) 06-421281
Fax: (39) 06-4212-8400
Toll Free: (39)
Empire Palace Hotel
Via Aureliana 39 00187
gold@empirepalacehotel.com  http://www.empirepalacehotel.com
110 Guest Rooms • 3 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s]
Location: City center; close to the famous via Veneto and near shopping area
Nearby Points of Interest: St Peter's Dome (Basilica) - 2 km • Colosseum (Monument) - 1 km • Spanish Step (Shopping area) - 1 km



Phone: (39) 06-678-7816
Fax: (39) 06-6919-0726
Toll Free: (39) 800-323-7500
Fortyseven Hotel Rome
Via Luigi Petroselli 47 00186
contact@fortysevenhotel.com  http://www.fortysevenhotel.com
61 Guest Rooms • 1 Meeting Room • Restaurant[s]
Location: City Centre
Nearby Points of Interest: Colosseum (Monument) - 100 mi • Roman Forum (Monument) - 100 mi • Bocca della Verita (Monument) - 10 mi



Phone: (39) 06-679-2446
Fax: (39) 06-678-6479
Toll Free: (39) 800-843-3311
Hotel Forum
Via Tor de' Conti, 25 00184
info@hotelforum.com  http://www.spacehotels.it
78 Guest Rooms • 1 Meeting Room • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: In the heart of the city between the Colosseum and Piazza Venezia
Nearby Points of Interest: Colosseum - Imperial Forum - .1 km • Spanish Steps - .5 mi • San Peters - 1.5 km



Phone: (39) 06-854-2141
Fax: (39) 06-8535-0037
Toll Free: (39) 800-8542-1411
Grand Hotel Beverly Hills
Largo Benedetto Marcello 220 00198
info@hotelbeverly.com  http://www.hotelbeverly.com
183 Guest Rooms • 5 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s]
Location: City Center 5 min from Via Veneto
Nearby Points of Interest: Galleria Borghese (Museum) - 3 blk • Spanish steps (Center) - 3 km



Phone: (39) 06-695201
Fax: (39) 06-679-4165
Toll Free: (39) 800-223-5652
Grand Hotel de La Minerve
Piazza Della Minerva 69 00186
minerva@hotel-invest.com  http://www.grandhoteldelaminerve.com
135 Guest Rooms • 4 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: Historical Centre
Nearby Points of Interest: Trevi Fountain (Monument) - 5 blk • Pantheon (Monument) - 1 blk • Via Condotti (Shopping area) - 1 km



Phone: (39) 06-854421
Fax: (39) 06-855-1758
Toll Free: (39) 800-323-7500
Grand Hotel Parco Dei Principi
Via Gerolamo Frescobaldi 5 00198
principi@parcodeiprincipi.com  http://www.parcodeiprincipi.com
183 Guest Rooms • 4 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: Near the Villa Borghese
Nearby Points of Interest: Via Veneto (Shopping District) - 2 km • Spanish Steps (Shopping District) - 3 km • Villa Borghese & Zoo (Borghese Gallery) - 500 mtr



Phone: (39) 06-6992-1111
Fax: (39) 06-6994-1575
Toll Free: (39)
Grand Hotel Plaza
Via Del Corso 126 00186
plaza@grandhotelplaza.com  http://www.grandhotelplaza.com
207 Guest Rooms • 7 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Nearby Points of Interest: Piazza di Spagna (Monument) - 0.2 km • Pizza Navona (Square) - 0.8 km • Pantheon (Monmument) - 0.4 km



Phone: (39) 06-699340
Fax: (39) 06-699-41607
Toll Free: (39) 800-223-6800
Hotel Hassler Roma
Piazza Trinita dei Monti 6 00187
booking@hotelhassler.it  http://www.hotelhasslerroma.com
95 Guest Rooms • 3 Meeting Rooms
Location: City center at the top of the Spanish Steps
Nearby Points of Interest: Spanish Steps (Square) • Trevi Fountain (Monument) - 1 mi • Colosseum (Monument) - 2 mi



Phone: (39) 06-482-6351
Fax: (39) 06-474-2583
Toll Free: (39)
Imperiale Hotel
Via Vittorio Veneto 24 00187
info@hotelimperialeroma.it  http://www.hotelimperialeroma.it
95 Guest Rooms • 1 Meeting Room • Pets Allowed
Nearby Points of Interest: Il colesseo (Monument) - 5 km • Museo mazionale (Museum) - 4 km



Phone: (39) 06-6992-5657
Fax: (39) 06-678-6470
Toll Free: (39)
Inn at the Spanish Steps
Via Dei Condotti, 85 00187
atspanishstep@tin.it  http://www.theinnatthespanishsteps.com
24 Guest Rooms
Location: Located at the Spanish Steps
Nearby Points of Interest: Piazza di Spagna (Square) - 100 mtr • Villa Borghese (Park) - 500 mtr • Roman Colosseum (Monument) - 1500 mtr



Phone: (39) 06-67331
Fax: (39) 06-678-4213
Toll Free: (39) 800-327-0200
InterContinental De La Ville - Roma
Via Sistina 67/69 00187
rome@ihg.com  http://www.interconti.com
192 Guest Rooms • 4 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: Spanish Steps, close to shopping district & embassies
Nearby Points of Interest:



Phone: (39) 06-6994-1823
Fax: (39) 06-678-4764
Toll Free: (39)
Hotel Internazionale
Via Sistina 79 00187
info@mygemhotels.com  http://www.mygemhotels.com
42 Guest Rooms • Pets Allowed
Location: Hotel Internazionale is located in downtown Rome.
Nearby Points of Interest: Spanish Steps (Monument) - 0,05 km • Trevi Fountain (Monument) - 0.2 km • The Pantheon (Monument) - 0.5 km



Phone: (39) 06-361-0841
Fax: (39) 06-321-5249
Toll Free: (39)
Hotel Locarno
Via della Penna 22 00186
info@hotellocarno.com  http://www.hotellocarno.com
68 Guest Rooms • 4 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s]
Location: Centrally located,within walking distance to all tourist attractions
Nearby Points of Interest: Piazza Del Popolo (Square) - 30 mtr • Piazza Venezia (Square) - 2 km • Piazza Di Spagna (Square) - 500 mtr



Phone: (39) 06-473871
Fax: (39) 06-474-6674
Toll Free: (39)
Londra & Cargill Hotel
Piazza Sallustio 18 00187
info@hotellondraroma.com  http://www.hotellondraroma.com
100 Guest Rooms • 2 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s]
Location: Overlooking ancient gardens
Nearby Points of Interest: Colosseum and Forum km • Spanish Steps km



Phone: (39) 06-322-0404
Fax: (39) 06-322-0405
Toll Free: (39)
Lord Byron Hotel
Via Giuseppe de Notaris, 5 00197
info@lordbyronhotel.com  http://www.lordbyronhotel.com
32 Guest Rooms • 1 Meeting Room • Restaurant[s]
Location: Residential area of Parioli, close to Via Veneto and Villa Borghese
Nearby Points of Interest: Villa Borghese (Museum) - 1 km • Via Veneto (Dolce Vita street) - 2 km • Piazza di Spagna (Shopping area) - 3 km



Phone: (39) 06-421441
Fax: (39) 06-488-0984
Toll Free: (39)
Hotel Majestic Roma
Via Vittorio Veneto 50 00187
info@hotelmajestic.com  http://www.hotelmajestic.com
98 Guest Rooms • 4 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s]
Location: City centre walking distance to major tourist attractions
Nearby Points of Interest: Trevi's Fountain (Tourist attraction) - 5 mtr • Villa Borghese (Museum & large park) - 5 mtr • City of Vatican (Tourist attraction) - 2 km



Phone: (39) 06-489929
Fax: (39) 06-4899-2796
Toll Free: (39) 800-228-9290
Marriott Grand Hotel Flora
Via Vittorio Veneto, 191 00187
http://www.marriott.com
155 Guest Rooms • 4 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s]
Location: on Via Veneto overlooking Villa Borghese Gardens
Nearby Points of Interest: villa Borghese (Art Galery) - 1 km • Spanish Step (Monument) - 1 km • Colloseum (Monument) - 1.5 km



Phone: (39) 06-4890-4040
Fax: (39) 06-481-7637
Toll Free: (39) 800-843-3311
Mascagni Hotel
Via Vittorio Emanuele Orlando, 90 00185
info@hotelmascagni.com  http://www.hotelmascagni.com
40 Guest Rooms
Location: Downtown in historic center
Nearby Points of Interest: Diocleziano Baths (Monument) - 100 mtr • Spanish Steps (Monument) - 1 km • Quirinale Palace (Presidential House) - 500 mtr



Phone: (39) 06-487-0270
Fax: (39) 06-482-7386
Toll Free: (39) 800-223-9832
Hotel Massimo D'Azeglio
Via Cavour 18 00184
hb@bettojahotels.it  http://www.bettojahotels.it
198 Guest Rooms • 1 Meeting Room • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: Downtown, between St.Mary Major and Termini railway station
Nearby Points of Interest: St Peter in Chains/Michelangelo (Monument) - 4 blk • Roman Forum (Landmark) - 1 km • Palazzo Massimo (Museum) - 1 blk



Phone: (39) 06-4470-2024
Fax: (39) 06-446-1354
Toll Free: (39)
Mecenate Palace Hotel
Via Carlo Alberto 3 00185
info@mecenatepalace.com  http://www.mecenatepalace.com
62 Guest Rooms • 1 Meeting Room • Pets Allowed
Nearby Points of Interest: Colosseum • Sta Maria Maggiore Basilica



Phone: (39) 06-4884051
Fax: (39) 06-4744105
Toll Free: (39) 800-223-9832
Hotel Mediterraneo
Via Cavour 15 00184
hb@bettojahotels.it  http://www.bettojahotels.it
261 Guest Rooms • 2 Meeting Rooms • Pets Allowed
Location: Downtown, walking to railway station, air terminal, landmarks
Nearby Points of Interest: Colosseum, ForoRomano (Monuments) - 1 km • Palazzo Massimo (Museum) - 2 blk



Phone: (39) 06-770021
Fax: (39) 06-700-5781
Toll Free: (39) 199-129999
Mercure Roma Delta Colosseo
Via Labicana 144 00184
mercureromacolosseo@accor-hotels.it  http://www.accor-hotels.it
160 Guest Rooms • 2 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: Next to the Coliseum
Nearby Points of Interest: Colosseum (Monument) - 200 mtr • Foro Romano (Historic) - 300 mtr • Domus Aurea (Historic) - 100 mtr



Phone: (39) 06-440741
Fax: (39) 06-4424-5461
Toll Free: (39) 199-129999
Mercure Roma Piazza Bologna
Via Reggio Calabria, 54 00161
mercurehotelsroma@accor-hotels.it  http://www.accor-hotels.it
113 Guest Rooms • 2 Meeting Rooms • Pets Allowed
Location: Near business and commercial areas
Nearby Points of Interest: Villa Massimo (Villa) - 800 mtr • Villa Torlonia (Villa) - 800 mtr • Villa Mirafiori (Villa) - 800 mtr



Phone: (39) 06-695001
Fax: (39) 06-678-6677
Toll Free: (39)
Nazionale Roma Hotel & Conference Center
Piazza Montecitorio 131 00186
info@hotelnazionale.it  http://www.hotelnazionale.it
101 Guest Rooms • 4 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: In the heart of Rome, in front of the Parliament House
Nearby Points of Interest: Trevi Fountain (Monument) - 3 blk • Pantheon (Monument) - 2 blk • Navona Square (Monument) - 4 blk



Phone: (39) 06-84951
Fax: (39) 06-884-1104
Toll Free: (39) 800-232-9860
NH Vittorio Veneto
Corso d'Italia 1 00198
roma_vittorioveneto@jollyhotels.it  http://www.nh-hotels.com
201 Guest Rooms • 7 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s]
Location: Via Veneto/Villa Borghese Park
Nearby Points of Interest: Galleria Borghese (Museum) - 2 blk • Via Veneto (World Famous Street) - 1 blk • Piazza di Spagna (World Famous Square) - 1.5 km



Phone: (39) 06-488-5441
Fax: (39) 06-481-7163
Toll Free: (39) 800-223-9832
Hotel Nord Nuova Roma
Via Giovanni Amendola 3 00185
hb@bettojahotels.it  http://www.bettojahotels.it
156 Guest Rooms • 1 Meeting Room • Pets Allowed
Location: Downtown, between St Mary Major and Termini railway station
Nearby Points of Interest: Colosseum (Monument) - 1 km • Foro Romano (Monument) - 1 km • Palazzo Massimo (Museum) - 1 blk



Phone: (39) 06-7759-1380
Fax: (39) 06-700-5638
Toll Free: (39)
Hotel Palazzo Manfredi
125 Via Labicana 00184
info@hotelpalazzomanfredi.it  http://www.hotelpalazzomanfredi.it
16 Guest Rooms • 1 Meeting Room • Restaurant[s]
Location: Heart of ancient Rome
Nearby Points of Interest: Colosseum - 50 mtr • Piazza Venezia - 1 km • Arco di Costantino - 100 mtr



Phone: (39) 06-328041
Fax: (39) 06-361-0597
Toll Free: (39)
Hotel Piranesi Palazzo Nainer
Via del Babuino, 196 00187
info@hotelpiranesi.com  http://www.hotelpiranesi.com
32 Guest Rooms • 1 Meeting Room • Restaurant[s]
Location: Close to Piazza di Spagna, Piazza del Popolo, in Via del Babuino
Nearby Points of Interest:



Phone: (39) 06-6938-0742
Fax: (39) 06-6919-0625
Toll Free: (39)
Portrait Suites
Via Bocca di Leone 23 00187
bookings@lungarnohotels.com  http://www.lungarnohotels.com
14 Guest Rooms • Pets Allowed
Nearby Points of Interest: Piazza di Spagna



Phone: (39) 06-4707
Fax: (39) 06-482-0099
Toll Free: (39)
Quirinale Hotel
Via Nazionale 7 00184
info@hotelquirinale.it  http://www.hotelquirinale.it
222 Guest Rooms • 4 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: In downtown
Nearby Points of Interest: Vatican City (Papal residence) km • Colosseum (Amphitheatre) km • Roman Forum



Phone: (39) 06-444841
Fax: (39) 06-4448-4397
Toll Free: (39) 800-333-3333
Radisson Blu Hotel Rome
Via Filippo Turati 171 00185
info.roma@radissonsas.com  http://www.radissonsas.com
235 Guest Rooms • 10 Meeting Rooms • Pets Allowed
Location: Near rail station, in front ot Fiumicion Terminal
Nearby Points of Interest: Colosseum (Monument) - 1 km • Piazza Venezia (Monument) - 2 km • Spanish Steps (Monument) - 2 km



Phone: (39) 06-682831
Fax: (39) 06-6878993
Toll Free: (39) 800-525-4800
Raphael Hotel
Largo Febo, 2 00186
info@raphaelhotel.com  http://www.raphaelhotel.com
48 Guest Rooms • 1 Meeting Room • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: City Centre-Piazza Navona
Nearby Points of Interest: Navona Square - 10 mtr • Spanish Steps - 1 km • Vatican - 1 km



Phone: (39) 06-421111
Fax: (39) 06-4201-2130
Toll Free: (39)
Regina Hotel Baglioni
Via Vittorio Veneto 72 00187
regina.roma@baglionihotels.com  http://www.baglionihotels.com
112 Guest Rooms • 2 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: In city center
Nearby Points of Interest: Piazza di Spagna (Monument) - 3 km • Borghese Gallery (Monument) - 2 km • Trevi's Fountain (Monument) - 2 km



Phone: (39) 06-488-0789
Fax: (39) 06-485721
Toll Free: (39) 600-860389
La Residenza Hotel
Via Emilia 22/24 00187
info@hotel-la-residenza.com  http://www.hotel-la-residenza.com
28 Guest Rooms
Nearby Points of Interest: Villa Borghese (Museum-Park) - 1 km • Piazza del Popolo-Sant Pietro (Cathedral) - 1 km • Il colosseo (Monument) - 4 km



Phone: (39) 06-6994-1256
Fax: (39) 06-6994-1454
Toll Free: (39)
Hotel Richmond
Largo Corrado Ricci 36 00184
reception@hotelrichmond.it  http://www.hotelrichmond.it
13 Guest Rooms • Pets Allowed
Location: Between Colosseum & Piazza Venezia
Nearby Points of Interest: Colosseum • Piazza Venezia • The Forum



Phone: (39) 06-58611
Fax: (39) 06-581-4550
Toll Free: (39) 866-EPOQUE1
Ripa Hotel
Via degli Orti di Trastevere 1 00153
reservations@ripahotel.com  http://www.ripahotel.com
170 Guest Rooms • 5 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: Trastevere, historical district of Rome, min from Vatican
Nearby Points of Interest: Vatican City (Papal palaces) - 3 km • Castel Sant'Angelo (Museum) - 3 km • Trastevere (Historical district) - 1 km



Phone: (39) 06-35091
Fax: (39) 06-3509-2241
Toll Free: (39) 800-445-8667
Rome Cavalieri
Via Cadlolo 101 00136
info@romecavalieri.it  http://www.romecavalieri.it
370 Guest Rooms • 4 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: 10 min to historic Rome center, near the Vatican
Nearby Points of Interest: Vatican City (Church & Museums) - 3 km • Piazza di Spagna (Main square) - 6 km • Castel Sant'Angelo (Castle) - 3 km



Phone: (39) 06-421741
Fax: (39) 06-481-5608
Toll Free: (39)
Rose Garden Palace
Via Boncompagni, 19 00187
info@rosegardenpalace.com  http://www.rosegardenpalace.com
65 Guest Rooms • Restaurant[s]
Location: In the city center
Nearby Points of Interest:



Phone: (39) 06-589-4626
Fax: (39) 06-589-4815
Toll Free: (39)
Santa Maria Hotel
Vicolo del Piede 2 00153
hotelsantamaria@libero.it  http://www.hotelsantamaria.info
18 Guest Rooms
Location: Travestere neighbothood
Nearby Points of Interest: Colosseo (Monument) - 1 mi • Fontana di Trevi (Monument) - 1 mi • Vaticano (Museum) - 1 mi



Phone: (39) 06-421551
Fax: (39) 06-4215-5555
Toll Free: (39)
Hotel Savoy
Via Ludovisi 15 00187
reservations@savoy.it  http://www.savoy.it
132 Guest Rooms • 4 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: Near the Via Veneto, Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain, Borghese Gardens
Nearby Points of Interest: Spanish Steps (Monument) - .6 km • Borghese Gallery (Museum) - .8 km • Trevi Fountain (Monument) - 1 km



Phone: (39) 06-6994-0896
Fax: (39) 06-6994-0598
Toll Free: (39)
Scalinata di Spagna Hotel
Piazza Trinita dei Monti 17 00187
info@hotelscalinata.com  http://www.hotelscalinata.com
16 Guest Rooms • 14 Meeting Rooms • Pets Allowed
Nearby Points of Interest:



Phone: (39) 06-65288
Fax: (39) 06-6528-7060
Toll Free: (39) 800-325-3535
Sheraton Golf Parco de' Medici Hotel
Viale Parco de' Medici, 167 00148
guest@sheratongolf.it  http://www.sheraton.com
622 Guest Rooms • 14 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: In the new business district, Rome-Eur
Nearby Points of Interest: Colosseum (Monument) - 15 km • San Pietro & Vatican (Church) - 16 km • Spanish Steps (Piazza) - 17 km



Phone: (39) 06-54531
Fax: (39) 06-594-0689
Toll Free: (39) 800-325-3535
Sheraton Roma Hotel & Conf Ctr
Viale del Pattinaggio 100 00144
res497.sheraton.roma@sheraton.com  http://www.sheraton.com
644 Guest Rooms • 25 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: In business heart of the Capital
Nearby Points of Interest: Vatican City - 9 km • Raman Forum (monuments) - 8 km • Trevi Fountain (monuments) - 9 km



Phone: (39) 06-478021
Fax: (39) 06-482-1019
Toll Free: (39) 800-221-4542
Sofitel Rome Villa Borghese
Via Lombardia 47 00187
H1312@sofitel.com  http://www.sofitel-rome-villaborghese.com
111 Guest Rooms • 3 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s]
Location: Just steps away from Via Veneto and from the Piazza di Spagna
Nearby Points of Interest: Piazza di Spagna (Monument) - 300 mtr • Galleria Borghese (Museum) - 150 mtr • Via Veneto (Famous Way) - 20 mtr



Phone: (39) 06-678-0441
Fax: (39) 06-6994-0689
Toll Free: (39)
Sole al Pantheon
Piazza della Rotonda 63 00186
info@hotelsolealpantheon.com  http://www.charminghotels.com/hotelsolealpantheon.com
33 Guest Rooms
Location: The hotel is located in front of the Pantheon, in the heart of Rome.
Nearby Points of Interest: Pantheon (Monument) km • Navona Square (Monument) - 1 km • Vatican Museum (Museum) - 3 km



Phone: (39) 06-421689
Fax: (39) 06-4216-8800
Toll Free: (39)
Splendide Royal
Via di Porta Pinciana, 14 00187
reservations@splendideroyal.com  http://www.splendideroyal.com
69 Guest Rooms • 3 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s]
Location: Central walking distance from Spanish steps, Via Veneto and Borghese
Nearby Points of Interest: Spanish Steps (main attraction) - .5 km • Borghese Gallery (Museum) - 1 km • V Veneto Shopping (Shopping) - .25 km



Phone: (39) 06-688-01602
Fax: (39) 06-683-08717
Toll Free: (39)
Saint Anna Hotel
Via Borgo Pio 133 00193
saintanna@travdel.it  
20 Guest Rooms • 1 Meeting Room • Pets Allowed
Location: 100 m from St Peter
Nearby Points of Interest: San Pietro (Monument) - 150 mtr



Phone: (39) 06-4774
Fax: (39) 06-474-0413
Toll Free: (39) 800-816-6001
Starhotels Metropole
Via Principe Amedeo, 3 00185
metropole.rm@starhotels.it  http://www.starhotels.com
236 Guest Rooms • 7 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: In the heart of the city, near Termini Railway Station & opera
Nearby Points of Interest: Colosseum (Historic site) - 1 km • Vatican (Historic site) - 5 km • Piazza Di Spagna (Historic site) - 1 km



Phone: (39) 06-398739
Fax: (39) 06-632359
Toll Free: (39) 800-8166001
Starhotels Michelangelo
Via Della Stazione di San Pietro, 14 00165
michelangelo.rm@starhotels.it  http://www.starhotels.com
179 Guest Rooms • 1 Meeting Room • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: In the heart of the city, walk to St Peter's Basilica
Nearby Points of Interest: Piazza S Pietro (Historic site) - 500 mtr • Vaticano (Historic site) - 500 mtr • Piazza Di Spagna (Historic site) - 3 km



Phone: (39) 06-686611
Fax: (39) 06-6866-1230
Toll Free: (39)
St George Hotel Roma
Via Giulia, 62 00186
stgeorge@hotel-invest.com  http://www.stgeorgehotel.it
64 Guest Rooms • 1 Meeting Room • Restaurant[s]
Location: In the city center
Nearby Points of Interest: Campo di Fiori - 0.5 km • Spanish steps - 2 km • Vatican City - 0.8 km



Phone: (39) 06-47091
Fax: (39) 06-474-7307
Toll Free: (39) 877-787-3447
The St Regis Grand Hotel
Via Vittorio Emanuele Orlando 3 00185
stregisgrandrome@stregis.com  http://www.stregis.com
151 Guest Rooms • 13 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: Financial/shopping districts
Nearby Points of Interest: Piazza di Spagna (Square/shopping) - 5 km • Villa Borghese (Gardens/museum) - 4 km • Via Veneto (Fashion street) - 5 km



Phone: (39) 06-361-1998
Fax: (39) 06-320-1558
Toll Free: (39) 199-190380
Hotel Valadier
Via della Fontanella 15 00187
info@hotelvaladier.com  http://www.hotelvaladier.com
70 Guest Rooms • 2 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s]
Location: Downtown Area between piazza del Popolo and Spanish steps
Nearby Points of Interest: Piazza Di Spagna (Monument) - 50 mtr • Colosseum (Monument) - 500 mtr • Fontana Di Trevi (Monument) - 500 mtr



Phone: (39) 06-473931
Fax: (39) 06-487-1890
Toll Free: (39)
Hotel Victoria
Via Campania 41 00187
http://www.victoria.hotelinroma.com
113 Guest Rooms • 1 Meeting Room • Restaurant[s]
Location: In the heart of Rome overlooking the Villa Borghesi Park
Nearby Points of Interest: Spanish Steps (Monument) - 1.2 km



Phone: (39) 06-322-6776
Fax: (39) 06-323-2720
Toll Free: (39)
Villa Laetitia
Lungotevere delle Armi 22/23
info@villalaetitia.com  http://www.villalaetitia.com
14 Guest Rooms • Pets Allowed
Location: Located in the Prati neighborhood
Nearby Points of Interest:



Phone: (39) 06-4890-7934
Fax: (39) 06-487-1409
Toll Free: (39)
Villa Spalletti Trivelli
Via Piacenza, 4 Via della Consulta , 50 00184
info@villaspallettitrivelli.com  http://www.villaspallettitrivelli.com
12 Guest Rooms • 1 Meeting Room • Restaurant[s]
Location: Located in the heart of downtown Rome
Nearby Points of Interest: Fontana di Trevi / Piazza di Spagna (Monuments) - 600 mtr • Quirnale / Banca D'Italia / Minister (Institution) - 150 mtr • Fori Romani / Colosseo/ Piazza Venezia (Monuments) - 900 mtr



Phone: (39) 06-47081
Fax: (39) 06-482-6205
Toll Free: (39) 800-WESTIN-1
The Westin Excelsior Rome
Via Vittorio Veneto 125 00187
http://www.westin.com
320 Guest Rooms • 7 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: On the famous Via Veneto
Nearby Points of Interest: Piazza di Spagna (Square) • Villa Borghese (Museum) • Via Veneto (Famous street)


Facts
Geostats
Passport/Visa Requirements: Citizens of Canada and the U.S. need only a passport. Check travel document requirements with your carrier before departing.

Population: 3,339,000.

Languages: Italian. English is widely spoken—if not perfectly, at least enough to communicate basic information.

Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman Catholic).

Time Zone: 1 hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+1 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the last Sunday in March to the last Sunday in October.

Voltage Requirements: 220 volts.

Telephone Codes: 39, country code; 06,city code;

Money
Currency Exchange
Banks, though ubiquitous, are concentrated on main drags such as the Via Veneto, Piazza San Silvestro and Via del Corso. ATMs, called bancomats, are available 24 hours a day outside almost all banks and at many other locations. They are the preferred way of getting cash, because they do not usually add the 2.5%-4% fees that credit cards charge for advances.

Cards with the Cirrus symbol are accepted almost anywhere. To change cash and traveler's checks, banks charge a commission of about 3 euros. Post offices charge a fee of 3.13 euros. Exchange rates are generally better at downtown banks and exchanges (ufficio di cambio) than at the airports or hotels. Cambio hours are generally 8:30 am-7:30 pm. At the airport, try to avoid changing more money than you may need to get into town. You'll also find 24-hour automated exchange machines dotting the city for extra convenience.

Bank hours are generally Monday-Friday 8:30 am-1:30 pm and 2:30-4 pm (with some variation), but some of the larger banks are open throughout the day. In winter, banks often have reduced hours.

Taxes
A value-added-tax (VAT, or IVA in Italy), anywhere from 3%-22%, can be refunded to non-European Union visitors. The amount added varies from country to country within the EU, and not all stores participate. Check first or look for the sign in the store window. In addition, only luxury goods—such as clothing and wine—are eligible. Refunds usually amount to about 13%-16% of the purchase price.

Present three things to the refund officer at the airport before departure: your purchase, the receipt and the customs division's stamped refund form (which must be picked up at the place of purchase). Without these, your refund will be denied. Note that only unused articles are eligible for a refund: If the article looks used, you won't get your money back. If everything is in order, the IVA refund officer will give you a final form to be mailed. (Ideally, jump through all these hoops before checking your bags and have your purchases in an easy-to-reach place.)

Some larger stores have a streamlined process: They handle most of the paperwork and then mail the refund to you, usually minus a fee. Private IVA refund services, located at the airport, also pay immediately minus a fee, usually a percentage of the refund. This is also possible at refund centers in the shopping district of Rome's Centro Storico and other large Italian cities. The two largest such services are Global Refund and Cashback; you'll see their signs in store windows. For more information, check Global Refund's Web site, http://www.globalrefund.com. It provides information, a tax calculator and a location map, showing its refund offices in 34 countries and all major exit points in Italy (airports, harbors and roads).

Tipping
Tipping is not mandatory. At times a service charge (servizio) is tacked onto restaurant bills. Don't confuse this with the cover (coperta), which is a charge for bread and table settings. If the service charge is included and you are pleased with the service, leave an additional 5%; if the service charge is not included, leave a 10% tip. Be aware that if you write your tip on the credit card, there is a good chance your waiter won't get the gratuity. It's always best to hand the tip directly to the person for whom it is intended.

Hotel staff typically receive 2.50 euros-5 euros. Tipping in taxis is not obligatory, either, but a tip of 1 euro or so is usually given to the driver.

Weather
May and June are the best times to visit, as far as the weather goes. Spring weather can be quite changeable, especially in March and April, with sunny skies in the morning and storms in the afternoon. May and June can be very pleasant, but temperatures often climb above 85 F/30 C in July and August. High humidity (around 85%) causes most locals to flee the city toward the end of summer. Fall remains sunny, with October and November quite mild but sometimes rainy. September-November is a nice time to visit—the weather's good for touring around, and you'll miss the early-summer crowds. Winters are generally mild, with January lows around 40 F/5 C.
What to Wear
As a rule, Italians are very conscious about clothes and fabric and have a highly developed sense of style. Casual dress is fine for most occasions, but a suit and tie are recommended for business meetings. Jackets for men and smart attire for women are wise for dining out. The only locals in shorts and T-shirts are construction workers or people playing soccer in the park; women rarely wear shorts. Bare feet are taboo except at the seaside or swimming pools.

When visiting the Vatican or any major cathedral, men should wear long pants and women should wear skirts or long pants. Sleeveless shirts and shorts are not permitted in churches or the Vatican, including the Vatican museums. Use a large scarf to cover exposed shoulders if no other covering is available.

Communication
Telephone
If you're calling a number in Rome from outside Italy, first dial your country's international access code and then Italy's country code, 39, followed by the city code, 06. Within Italy or Rome, you'll need to dial 06 and then the local number. Mobile numbers begin with 3 and have no city code (outside Italy, you still must dial the prefix 39).

Public phones are getting harder and harder to find (cell phones have taken over the country). Most accept only phone cards issued by Telecom Italia, the state-run company. Purchase these at newsstands, tobacconists (marked by a blue or black sign with a large white T), post offices and many bars. Ask for a carta telefonica. Tear the corner off, insert it into the phone, and dial away. International call cards can be purchased at most tobacconists and bars. Most offer about 300 minutes' worth of talk time for 5 euros. Actual cost-per-minute is determined by which country you are calling. Call the switchboard number—listed on the calling card—from any phone and they'll connect you to your desired number.

Cell phone coverage is variable. Don't expect to get any signal whatsoever when inside ancient buildings or ruins, and most restaurants in the city center have limited signals indoors. You can tell how good a restaurant's signal is by the number of people standing outside talking on their phones.

If you are traveling for an extended period of time and would like an Italian number, TIM and Vodafone stores, located throughout the country, sell SIM cards starting at 5 euros. SIM cards are compatible with most unlocked cell phones.

Internet Access
Internet cafes have become common in the center of the city. Many are extremely small, with no more than five computers, but prices tend to be very reasonable. If you're looking for ambience, check the centro areas around the Pantheon, Campo dei Fiori or Via Veneto.

The introduction of Wi-Fi has finally reached the Eternal City. Hot spots are now in major parks such as Villa Borghese and Villa Pamphilij and in almost all central cafes. Wi-Fi is free with registration; all you need is a cell phone to authenticate registration. If you travel with a laptop and need Internet access immediately upon arrival in Rome, the McDonald's restaurant in Termini Station offers free Wi-Fi. Bibli
A bookstore cafe and Internet site in hip Trastevere. Monday 5:30 pm-midnight, Tuesday-Sunday 11 am-midnight. Internet user fees are 2 euros per half-hour, 3.50 euros per hour. Via dei Fienaroli 28, Rome. Phone 06-588-4097. http://www.bibli.it.

News Cafe
In line with a growing trend to jazz up Internet cafes, News Cafe offers news via a small TV and offers a wide selection of free newspapers in up to 10 different languages. You can also surf the Internet. The bar sells beer and wine, and there's also light fare and good coffee. It's conveniently located near the Trevi Fountain, yet away from the crowds. Daily 8 am-2 am. Via della Stamperia 72, Rome. Phone 06-6992-3473. http://www.travelroma.com.

Mail & Package Services
Most tobacconists, in addition to the post office, sell stamps. If you're mailing something important, skip the post office and use a private delivery service. Federal Express, DHL and UPS all have outlets throughout the city. Mailboxes Etc. also has a handful of shops, and they will handle courier and mail services.
 Poste Italiane
All post offices accept international parcels, but packaging requirements apply. Padded envelopes are the safest bet. Boxes should be cleanly wrapped and sealed. Priority mail (posta prioritaria) and express mail (posta celere) have sped up Italy's infamously slow mail. The most central post office is Ufficio Postale di Roma Centro. Monday-Friday 8 am-7 pm, Saturday 8 am-1:15 pm. Piazza San Silvestro 19, Rome.

Vatican Post Office
Quicker and with more efficient service than its Italian counterpart; it also has multilingual clerks. Only mail with Vatican stamps will be accepted. The Vatican Post Office may close without notice because of increased security for special ceremonies. Monday-Saturday 8:30 am-6:30 pm. Piazza San Pietro, Vatican City.

Newspapers & Magazines
Il Messaggero, La Repubblica, Corriere della Sera and Il Tempo are Italian-language dailies that cover metropolitan news. Il Sole 24 Ore is the daily business newspaper.

Newsstands in the city center stock the International Herald Tribune, USA Today, The Wall Street Journal Europe, The Financial Times and many international magazines. British newspapers and some U.S. dailies are available at newsstands in Piazza di Spagna, in Piazza San Silvestro, on Via Veneto near the Excelsior Hotel, at Termini Station and at the airport.

Wanted in Rome is a bimonthly English-language publication sold at all newsstands. It has entertainment listings among other bits of information, and the Web site, http://www.wantedinrome.com, carries back issues. The section "What's On and Where to Go" is particularly useful. See also the multitude of entertainment options listed and advertised (in Italian) in "Trovaroma," the Thursday supplement published by La Repubblica and available throughout the city. The most complete listings are in Roma C'e, which has an English-language insert.

Transportation
Rome's downtown streets are narrow, scooters zip by everywhere, and Roman drivers are far from cautious. Before renting a car and braving the chaos, know that parking is difficult and that very few garages are available. We recommend that visitors walk as much as possible—nothing in the Centro Storico is more than a 30- to 40-minute stroll away. Taxis, buses and the metro can fill most gaps.
Air
Rome's main airport is Leonardo da Vinci, commonly called Fiumicino (FCO), about 16 mi/35 km southwest of Rome. Though quite large, with two of its three terminals dedicated to international travel, it manages to avoid confusion with clearly marked signs and a generous number of information booths, as well as interactive touch-screen kiosks that provide timetables, airport maps and more. Most U.S. destinations leave from Terminal 5. There is no shortage of ATMs, duty-free shops and restaurants, and there's a 24-hour cash exchange. For airport information, call 39-06-65951. http://www.adr.it.

A second airport, Ciampino, mainly welcomes international charters and budget airlines 8 mi/13 km southeast of Rome. Small but friendly, it offers a pint-sized selection of services normally found in the larger airports: a bank, post office, cash exchange (usually closing around 9 pm), a couple of information booths and a lounge. In addition, it has a smattering of snack bars and duty-free shops. The airport is being expanded, and though this doesn't affect flights or service within the airport, it will in the future mean quicker check-in times and controls, and the possibility of flights to more destinations. Phone 39-06-794-941. http://www.adr.it.

Connecting Transportation

Best way:

Trains run approximately every 30 minutes, between 6:30 am and 11:30 pm, from Fiumicino's train station either directly to Termini Station (about 30 minutes) or to a dozen stops along the way, including Stazione Trastevere, Stazione Ostiense and Statione Tiburtina (40 minutes).

The train costs 11 euros. Purchase tickets from station windows, vending machines or the newsstand. Don't forget to validate the ticket in a yellow machine before boarding (use a pen to write the time and date if you forget). http://www.trenitalia.it.

Ciampino's public transport links are trickier. COTRAL buses connect to the vast Anagnina Station, where you can then catch Metro Linea A to the central train hub, Termini (1 euro). http://www.metroroma.it and http://www.cotralspa.it.

Alternatively, take the bus to Ciampino station (1 euro) and get on the train to Termini station (1.30 euros). This is the fastest way to the city center. Trains run 5:24 am-11 pm.

Other options:

COTRAL night buses run 1:15 am-7 am (4.50 euros or 7 euros onboard). Fiumicino's stop is outside the arrivals hall. The bus ride to and from Termini takes around 30 minutes. Toll-free 800-174-471. http://www.cotralspa.it.

A taxi takes 45 minutes and costs 40 euros plus 2 euros per bag (always use the official white and yellow cabs at the stand; avoid the unauthorized touts). There is a surcharge of 10 euros 10 pm-7 am. Be forewarned that drivers tack on surcharges for almost anything, but regulations have helped tremendously. All legal charges are printed on a white card in multiple languages inside each licensed taxi.

A chauffeured shuttle service between Fiumicino Airport and your hotel costs approximately 40 euros. Book through one of the many booths in the terminal.

Many major hotels have courtesy vans. Let the concierge know your arrival time and flight details prior to traveling.

Branches of major rental car agencies have desks at the airport.

For Ciampino, some airlines run shuttles (around 20 euros return). A cab costs roughly 30 euros.

Car
We strongly advise against driving within Rome. For excursions, take the train out of the city first and then rent the car: The GRA (the freeway that encircles Rome) and its exits are notoriously bewildering for tourists and locals alike. Driving is on the right. There is no shortage of car rental agencies at the airport, train station or in town.
Public Transportation
The public transit system includes buses, trams and metro subway trains. Tickets are valid on all three forms of transportation, good for only one trip on the metro but unlimited transfers on buses and trams for 75 minutes after the time stamped on the ticket.

Buy tickets for many buses at tobacconists (marked with a black or blue sign with a large T), bars and newspaper kiosks, as well as at the green ATAC (the city transport authority) booths located on all the major squares. A single ticket is 1 euro and must be stamped in a validation machine onboard. Multiride passes are available for a day (4 euros), week (16 euros) and month (30 euros). Month-long passes can only be purchased at tobacconists.

The public transit Web site helps plan routes. Insert the starting destination address, and the site provides a printable page, complete with a map, of all possible transfers and (where applicable) alternative routes. http://www.atac.roma.it.


ATAC Buses
In general, this is a good way to get around, but familiarize yourself with the system first. Electric buses 116, 117 and 119 are a visitor's friend because they ply the pedestrian areas of Piazza del Popolo, Via del Corso and the Centro Storico, hitting the major sights along the way. Pickpockets operate on all buses, particularly on those around the tourist areas. Be aware of your wallet and bags at all times. Bus service is generally suspended between 11:30 pm and 5:30 am, except for autobus notturna (night bus) service—these buses run about once an hour, and the hub is Piazza Venezia. Stops with night bus services are indicated with a large owl, and the buses are marked with an N. They don't necessarily slow down at the stops, so flag ostentatiously. Phone 06-57003 for information.

Metro
There are two Metropolitana (subway) lines. The A line runs from Battistini to Anagnina, crossing the city from west to southeast. The B line runs from Laurentina (near EUR, south of Centro Storico) to Rebibbia and crosses the city from south to southeast. The two lines intersect at Stazione Termini. Stations are marked aboveground by a large red M sign. Work is under way on the new C line, but progress is slow. The subway runs daily 5:30 am-11:30 pm, and until 1:30 am Friday and Saturday. http://www.atac.roma.it.

Trams
These lines are the best ones for visitors: Tram 8 connects Centro Storico to Trastevere before terminating at Villa Pamphilj; Tram 19 runs from the Vatican around Villa Borghese; and Tram 3 runs from Villa Borghese to Stazione Trastevere, stopping en route at the Colosseum and Stazione Ostiense. Trams run 5 am-midnight, except for Tram 8, which runs until 2 am Sunday-Thursday and until 3:30 am Friday and Saturday.

Ship
Cruise ships dock at the port of Civitavecchia, a port city approximately 65 mi/105 km north of Rome. This rapidly growing port is one of the most popular destinations for ferry travelers in the Mediterranean. Popular destinations from the port include Sardinia, Palermo, Genoa and Barcelona.

The port itself is not very attractive. It is enormous; from the ferries to the port entrance is half a mile/kilometer, and shuttles are available. The train station is another 10-minute walk. Trains leave for Rome's Termini Station every 20 minutes and take about one hour and 15 minutes. Buses that leave from the train station also go to Rome. Trains do not run direct to Fiumicino Airport; travelers must go first to Rome, and transfer trains. Total travel time is at least two hours. Taxis are not always available. Private shuttle companies take travelers from Civitavecchia to Rome or the Fiumicino Airport. Popular companies include Rome Airport Transfers and Airport Connection Service.

Cruise ships also dock at Naples, about two hours south of Rome. This grand, sprawling port also welcomes ferries (traghetti) and hydrofoils (aliscafi). Routes web the Tyrrhenian Sea, linking Naples to Sicily, Sardinia, Capri, Ischia, Procida, the Pontine and Aeolian Islands, as well as international destinations such as Tunisia, Croatia and Greece. Naples and Rome are very well-connected by bus, train and even plane, but the train is best and takes less then two hours.

Taxi
Official taxis are white, carry a Commune di Roma plaque (inside the rear door on the left side), have meters and operate 24 hours. Cabdrivers are not accustomed to being hailed and may not stop. Instead, go to a taxi stand (marked with green signs) or order one by phone: 06-0609 (centralized service), 06-3570, 06-4157 or 06-4994.

Different fares are charged for travel outside and inside the GRA, a ring road around the city, inside and outside the ZTL (a limited traffic area in the center of the city) and for different times of day. Fares vary depending on traffic, and there is a supplement of 2.50 euros at night within the GRA. There are supplemental charges (usually about 1 euro) for ordering a taxi by phone, for late-night service and for Sunday and holiday service. Sometimes you'll be charged for luggage. Most taxi drivers don't speak English, so it's a good idea to have the destination address written down.

Train
Ferrovie dello Stato
The Italian national rail service is fairly cheap and reliable. Rome's primary stations are Termini (the main hub, connected to both metro lines), Trastevere (on the rail line between Termini and the airport) and Ostiense (in southern Rome on Metro Line B, with connections to Ostia and Naples). Termini has easy-to-use interactive kiosks where the traveler can choose a destination and print a ticket (reserve a seat on the faster, more expensive services, such as Eurostar).

Termini is the source of all schedule and train information as well, however frustrating and inefficient employees can be. Take with you plenty of patience and time. Be sure to validate your ticket using the yellow machines on the platform before boarding a train. Phone 892-021. You can also plan your trip and book tickets online. http://www.trenitalia.it.

For More Information
Tourist Offices
Chiamaroma is the new information line for the city of Rome, with service in English, and is open 24 hours a day. From any local phone, call 06-0608.
Tourist Information Board
Located inside Termini Station near track 24, the office provides maps, the helpful A Guest In Rome guide, the Roma Pass and other useful information. Daily 9 am-6 pm. The tourist kiosk located outside of Termini Station provides bus information exclusively.

Tourist Information Kiosks
Locations include: Fiumicino International Arrivals Terminal B, Termini station next to track 24, Castel Sant'Angelo, Via del Corso, the Imperial Forums, Piazza di Spagna, Piazza Navona, Via Nazionale (at Piazza delle Esposizione), Piazza Sonnino in Trastevere, Santa Maria Maggiore, the Trevi Fountain and Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano. Operators at the call center speak four languages. Daily 9 am-7 pm. Phone 06-0608. http://www.060608.it.

Events
Calendar
Visitors to Rome are awed by its majestic antiquities and museum treasures, but the city is still very much alive. Colorful religious traditions and processions mark many holidays, and an abundance of music thrives both within the city and at nearby festivals.

The Baths of Caracalla, ruins dating from the third century, provide a dramatic setting for outdoor performances in summer. During holidays and local festivals, businesses, shops and government offices close, so plan ahead.

General audiences with the pope are usually held Wednesday at 10:30 am in Vatican City. In winter, they take place either inside St. Peter's Basilica or in the Paul VI Audience Hall (capacity 7,000). In summer, they're held either in St. Peter's Square or at the pope's summer residence at Castel Gandolfo.

If you wish to participate in a general audience, write in advance to the Office of the Prefecture. Phone 06-6988-3114. Fax 06-6988-5863.

If you're Catholic, include a letter of introduction from your local parish priest. Appropriately modest dress is requested: Men should wear a jacket and tie; women should dress with arms and head covered.

For detailed information about upcoming events in the Rome area, contact the City of Rome's Tourist Information Service. Phone 06-0608. http://www.060608.it. The Municipality of Rome also has a Web site that offers information about events and sights. http://en.turismoroma.it.

Within the city, a good source for information about classical music performances is Thursday's edition of La Repubblica. The periodical Wanted in Rome lists happenings in English.

If you're calling the phone numbers in this calendar from outside Italy, you must first dial your country's international access code, then Italy's country code, 39, followed by a zero and then Rome's city code, 6. When dialing from within Italy and even from within Rome, you must dial 06 before the rest of the (four- to eight-digit) phone number. We've included the city codes in the phone numbers listed.

Information in this calendar is subject to change and should be confirmed.

September, 2010

21-30 Sep—Romaeuropa Festival This annual contemporary arts festival includes world-class music, dance and theater performances, and art exhibits and installations. Phone 4555-3000. http://www.romaeuropa.net. Continues through 2 Dec

30 Sep—Romics The Rome Comics and Cartoons Festival includes presentations of the newest international publications and a fair that allows fans to meet designers. It also features film previews and the presentation of the Golden Romics awards. Fiera di Roma, Via Cristoforo Colombo. Phone 06-9395-3069. http://www.romics.it. Continues through 3 Oct

Late September—Concert The Accademia Filarmonica Romana performs frequently at Teatro Olimpico. For tickets, call 06-326-5991. http://www.filarmonicaromana.org. Continues through late May 2011

Throughout September—Estate Romana The Roman Summer offers hundreds of events with thousands of artists. The varied program includes rock, symphonic, solo and ethnic-music performances, literary readings, film screenings, theater and international dancing. Venues throughout the Rome area. For information, call 06-3600-4399. http://www.estateromana.comune.roma.it. Concludes late September

October, 2010

Early-Late October—Performance Operas and ballets are staged frequently at Teatro del'Opera, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1. For information, call 06-481-601. For tickets, call 06-4816-0255 or 06-481-7003. http://www.operaroma.it. Continues through early August 2011

Mid-Late October—Concert Chamber-music and orchestra concerts. Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia, Via della Conciliazione 4. For information, call 06-8024-2501 or 06-6880-1044. For tickets, call 06-808-8352 or 800-907-080. http://www.santacecilia.it. Continues through late May 2011

1-3 Oct—Romics The Rome Comics and Cartoons Festival includes presentations of the newest international publications and a fair that allows fans to meet designers. It also features film previews and the presentation of the Golden Romics awards. Fiera di Roma, Via Cristoforo Colombo. Phone 06-9395-3069. http://www.romics.it. Concludes 3 Oct

4 Oct—Feast of St. Francis of Assisi Flowers are placed at the monument to St. Francis, near San Giovanni, Laterano.

Throughout October—Concert The Accademia Filarmonica Romana performs frequently at Teatro Olimpico. For tickets, call 06-326-5991. http://www.filarmonicaromana.org. Continues through late May 2011

Throughout October—Romaeuropa Festival This annual contemporary arts festival includes world-class music, dance and theater performances, and art exhibits and installations. Phone 4555-3000. http://www.romaeuropa.net. Continues through 2 Dec

November, 2010

1 Nov—All Saints' Day Public holiday. Many churches not usually open to the public may be open for visiting this day.

4 Nov—Unity Day Marking World War I and Armed Forces Day, a ceremony takes place at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier at Piazza Navona.

Throughout November—Concert The Accademia Filarmonica Romana performs frequently at Teatro Olimpico. For tickets, call 06-326-5991. http://www.filarmonicaromana.org. Continues through late May 2011

Throughout November—Concert Chamber-music and orchestra concerts. Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia, Via della Conciliazione 4. For information, call 06-8024-2501 or 06-6880-1044. For tickets, call 06-808-8352 or 800-907-080. http://www.santacecilia.it. Continues through late May 2011

Throughout November—Romaeuropa Festival This annual contemporary arts festival includes world-class music, dance and theater performances, and art exhibits and installations. Phone 4555-3000. http://www.romaeuropa.net. Continues through 2 Dec

Throughout November—Performance Operas and ballets are staged frequently at Teatro del'Opera, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1. For information, call 06-481-601. For tickets, call 06-4816-0255 or 06-481-7003. http://www.operaroma.it. Continues through early August 2011

December, 2010

1, 2 Dec—Romaeuropa Festival This annual contemporary arts festival includes world-class music, dance and theater performances, and art exhibits and installations. Phone 4555-3000. http://www.romaeuropa.net. Concludes 2 Dec

8 Dec—Feast of the Immaculate Conception Public and religious holiday. The pope or his envoy places flowers at the column of the Virgin in Piazza di Spagna. Statues are crowned with flowers, and civic bands and bagpipers perform.

24 Dec—Christmas Eve Public holiday.

25 Dec—Christmas Public holiday.

26 Dec—St. Stephen's Day Public holiday. Many Romans visit nativity scenes in churches throughout the city.

31 Dec—New Year's Eve Mass is held in churches throughout the city. Traditionally, broken crockery is tossed from balconies, and an all-night party rages in the Piazza del Popolo.

Throughout December—Concert The Accademia Filarmonica Romana performs frequently at Teatro Olimpico. For tickets, call 06-326-5991. http://www.filarmonicaromana.org. Continues through late May 2011

Throughout December—Concert Chamber-music and orchestra concerts. Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia, Via della Conciliazione 4. For information, call 06-8024-2501 or 06-6880-1044. For tickets, call 06-808-8352 or 800-907-080. http://www.santacecilia.it. Continues through late May 2011

Throughout December—Performance Operas and ballets are staged frequently at Teatro del'Opera, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1. For information, call 06-481-601. For tickets, call 06-4816-0255 or 06-481-7003. http://www.operaroma.it. Continues through early August 2011

January, 2011

1 Jan—New Year's Day Public holiday.

6 Jan—Epiphany Public and religious holiday, called Befana in Italian. An ordination of new bishops takes place in St. Peter's Basilica. An Epiphany fair is held in the Piazza Navona. Toys, candy and gifts are exchanged.

Throughout January—Concert The Accademia Filarmonica Romana performs frequently at Teatro Olimpico. For tickets, call 06-326-5991. http://www.filarmonicaromana.org. Continues through late May

Throughout January—Performance Operas and ballets are staged frequently at Teatro del'Opera, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1. For information, call 06-481-601. For tickets, call 06-4816-0255 or 06-481-7003. http://www.operaroma.it. Continues through early August

Throughout January—Concert Chamber-music and orchestra concerts. Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia, Via della Conciliazione 4. For information, call 06-8024-2501 or 06-6880-1044. For tickets, call 06-808-8352 or 800-907-080. http://www.santacecilia.it. Continues through late May

February, 2011

Throughout February—Concert The Accademia Filarmonica Romana performs frequently at Teatro Olimpico. For tickets, call 06-326-5991. http://www.filarmonicaromana.org. Continues through late May

Throughout February—Concert Chamber-music and orchestra concerts. Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia, Via della Conciliazione 4. For information, call 06-8024-2501 or 06-6880-1044. For tickets, call 06-808-8352 or 800-907-080. http://www.santacecilia.it. Continues through late May

Throughout February—Performance Operas and ballets are staged frequently at Teatro del'Opera, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1. For information, call 06-481-601. For tickets, call 06-4816-0255 or 06-481-7003. http://www.operaroma.it. Continues through early August

March, 2011

9 Mar—Ash Wednesday The pope, clad in purple and accompanied by members of the College of Cardinals, walks from the Basilica of Santa Sabina (Aventine Hill) to the Circus Maximus, where a ceremony takes place.

19 Mar—Feast of St. Joseph Celebrants congregate in the Trionfale Quarter.

Throughout March—Concert The Accademia Filarmonica Romana performs frequently at Teatro Olimpico. For tickets, call 06-326-5991. http://www.filarmonicaromana.org. Continues through late May

Throughout March—Performance Operas and ballets are staged frequently at Teatro del'Opera, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1. For information, call 06-481-601. For tickets, call 06-4816-0255 or 06-481-7003. http://www.operaroma.it. Continues through early August

Throughout March—Concert Chamber-music and orchestra concerts. Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia, Via della Conciliazione 4. For information, call 06-8024-2501 or 06-6880-1044. For tickets, call 06-808-8352 or 800-907-080. http://www.santacecilia.it. Continues through late May

April, 2011

22 Apr—Good Friday In the evening, the pope traditionally leads the Procession of the Cross from the Colosseum to the Forum.

24 Apr—Easter An outdoor Mass takes place Easter morning in St. Peter's Square. All 20,000 seats are reserved; Italians watch the Mass on TV. At noon, the pope blesses the crowds assembled in St. Peter's Square.

25 Apr—Easter Monday Public holiday.

Throughout April—Concert The Accademia Filarmonica Romana performs frequently at Teatro Olimpico. For tickets, call 06-326-5991. http://www.filarmonicaromana.org. Continues through late May

Throughout April—Concert Chamber-music and orchestra concerts. Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia, Via della Conciliazione 4. For information, call 06-8024-2501 or 06-6880-1044. For tickets, call 06-808-8352 or 800-907-080. http://www.santacecilia.it. Continues through late May

Throughout April—Performance Operas and ballets are staged frequently at Teatro del'Opera, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1. For information, call 06-481-601. For tickets, call 06-4816-0255 or 06-481-7003. http://www.operaroma.it. Continues through early August

May, 2011

1 May—Labor Day Public holiday.

1 May—May Day Music Festival International musicians perform to huge crowds at this annual rite of spring. This free, televised event is held at Piazza San Giovanni. http://www.primomaggio.com.

Throughout May—Concert Chamber-music and orchestra concerts. Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia, Via della Conciliazione 4. For information, call 06-8024-2501 or 06-6880-1044. For tickets, call 06-808-8352 or 800-907-080. http://www.santacecilia.it. Concludes late May

Throughout May—Performance Operas and ballets are staged frequently at Teatro del'Opera, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1. For information, call 06-481-601. For tickets, call 06-4816-0255 or 06-481-7003. http://www.operaroma.it. Continues through early August

Throughout May—Concert The Accademia Filarmonica Romana performs frequently at Teatro Olimpico. For tickets, call 06-326-5991. http://www.filarmonicaromana.org. Concludes late May

June, 2011

Mid June—Rome Chamber Music Festival at Villa Aurelia This annual event presents performances by world-class musicians. For more information, call 06-9761-7528. http://www.romechamberfestival.org.

19-27 Jun—Pesaro Film Fest Also known as the International Exhibition of New Cinema, this festival showcases works by new directors. This annual event also provides retrospectives of films by veteran directors from many countries. For information, call 06-445-6643 or 06-491-156. http://www.pesarofilmfest.it.

Late June—Spoleto Festival Founded by Gian Carlo Menotti in 1957, this festival presents world-class concerts, opera, dance, theater, film and visual arts. In Spoleto, 80 mi/130 km north of Rome. For information, call 07-434-5028. http://www.bellaumbria.net/Spoleto/spoleto_festival_eng.htm Continues through mid July

Throughout June—Performance Operas and ballets are staged frequently at Teatro del'Opera, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1. For information, call 06-481-601. For tickets, call 06-4816-0255 or 06-481-7003. http://www.operaroma.it. Continues through early August

July, 2011

Early-Mid July—Spoleto Festival Founded by Gian Carlo Menotti in 1957, this festival presents world-class concerts, opera, dance, theater, film and visual arts. In Spoleto, 80 mi/130 km north of Rome. For information, call 07-434-5028. http://www.bellaumbria.net/Spoleto/spoleto_festival_eng.htm Concludes mid July

Throughout July—Performance Operas and ballets are staged frequently at Teatro del'Opera, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1. For information, call 06-481-601. For tickets, call 06-4816-0255 or 06-481-7003. http://www.operaroma.it. Continues through early August

August, 2011

Early August—Performance Operas and ballets are staged frequently at Teatro del'Opera, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1. For information, call 06-481-601. For tickets, call 06-4816-0255 or 06-481-7003. http://www.operaroma.it. Concludes early August

15 Aug—Feast of the Assumption Public holiday.

Civitavecchia, Italy
Overview
Introduction
Located 43 mi/69 km west of Rome, Civitavecchia is one of the most popular destinations for ferry travelers in the Mediterranean. All major cruise lines begin and end voyages here or stop for shore excursions to see Rome and the Vatican.

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Port Information
Location
The port itself, however, is not very attractive. The port is enormous: From the ferries to the port entrance is 0.5 mi/0.8 km, and shuttles are available.

The train station is another 10-minute walk. Trains leave for Rome's Termini Station every 20 minutes and take about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Buses also go to Rome. Trains do not run direct to Fiumicino Airport; travelers must go first to Rome, and transfer trains. Total travel time is at least two hours.

Taxis are not always available.

Private shuttle companies take travelers from Civitavecchia to Rome or the Fiumicino Airport.

Sardinia, Italy
Overview
Introduction
Sardinia is a very striking island—the rocks are colored black from basalt, silver from granite, red from porphyry—and it has had great historic and strategic importance. Its location 150 mi/240 km southwest of Rome helps explain why every Mediterranean power has controlled the island at one time or another—Romans, Phoenicians, Spaniards, Turks, even a pope. The northern coast of present-day Sardinia is a favorite vacation spot of Italy's extremely wealthy (which explains the island's high prices).

The island has a multitude of attractions: wild horses, flamingos, nun seals, great fishing, mountain climbing, Roman ruins, sailing, reef diving, waterskiing, grottoes (the best is Grotta Nuova, near Cala Gonone on the east coast), and uncrowded sandy or rocky beaches. Must-sees include the pink sand at Porto Ferro, the typically Sardinian town of Nuoro, Oristano (ruins of the Phoenician city Tharros), the Goddess of Fortune Temple in Porto Torres, Cagliari (the island's capital and largest city, with a good archaeological museum) and Su Nuraxi Nuraghe (an impressive Nuraghic fortress, 40 mi/60 km north of Cagliari). The town of Olbia is the gateway to the exclusive Emerald Coast (Costa Smeralda), one of Europe's most important (and expensive) resort areas. It contains sites that span 3,000 years of history.

Shop for exquisite lace, wood carvings, carpets and bitter honey (harvested during autumn when the only flowers blooming contain bitter pollen). For dinner, try the traditional Sardinian dish, porceddu (roast suckling pig). If you are looking for something more exotic, order uova di ricci (raw sea-urchin eggs) or bottarga (salted and dried fish eggs, often grated over pasta). A good alternative to renting a car is to circle the island by boat over the course of two weeks, stopping in the small towns and coves along the way. If you're not yachting around the isle, plan a minimum of three nights. Also keep in mind that many hotels shut down in the fall and spring.

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Capri Island, Italy
Overview
Introduction
Once infamous as the "Island of Sin," the island of Capri, about 15 mi/25 km south of Naples in the Bay of Naples, is now known as a desirable place to visit and a romantic spot for honeymooners. (Its name literally means "goats," and you'll see plenty of them there.)

For centuries, Capri was a retreat of sorts. Pirates hid their loot there, and Emperor Tiberius used to hold orgies on the island. Visit the ruins of Villa Jovis, the first-century villa where he spent the last, debauched years of his reign, and the Salto di Tiberio from where he would fling to their death those who no longer pleased him. Read Robert Graves' I, Claudius to get an idea of what went on.

These days, Capri is a retreat for the youngish jet set and assorted Hollywood celebrities. Don't expect lush tropical scenery, but do expect old-world charm, gorgeous grottoes and silver- and rose-colored cliffs that plunge straight into clear blue water.

Also expect superb restaurants, good shopping, watersports, castles, churches and wonderful streets in which to stroll—and some of the highest prices in Italy.

The main village on the island, where most of the shops and restaurants are found, is also called Capri. It is very chic to have an after-dinner drink in the famous piazzetta, the small square in the center of town.

Higher up in the hills is another exclusive little village, called Anacapri. There you can take a chairlift to Mount Solaro, one of the island's highest peaks, and enjoy breathtaking, expansive views over the sea and the Bay of Naples. Also in Anacapri is the exotic Villa San Michele, which houses the art collection and spectacular garden of Swedish doctor Axel Munthe. (Read his wonderful autobiography, The Story of San Michele, for a good introduction to the island and the special significance of the villa itself.)

Visit and swim at the justly famous Blue Grotto and the Natural Arch. To visit Capri's lesser-known grottoes, hire a fisherman's boat from Marina Piccola. Although there are no sandy beaches on Capri, there are thin rocky strips at Marina Piccola and at the Faraglioni (picturesque rock formations off the eastern tip of the island, where the Romans would light beacons for sailors). At both places you can lie out on the rocks and swim safely.

Even though the people (called Capresi) have seen many tourists come and go, you'll find them surprisingly nice and helpful. Capri is informal, but not that informal—take a coat and tie if you plan to dine in the nicer restaurants. And, although there are topless beaches, total nudity is not accepted.

The best months to visit Capri are May, June and September. In July and August, the island tends to be overwhelmed by tourists, foreigners and Italians alike, especially huge tour groups. Though Capri can be seen on a day trip from the mainland, two nights are really preferable.

If you've already been to Capri, consider heading to its lesser-known but equally captivating sister island, Ischia. Both islands can be reached by ferry or hydrofoil from Naples or Sorrento.

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Sicily Island, Italy
Overview
Introduction
Sicily is a mountainous, arid island dotted with lemon, orange, almond and pistachio orchards—an extension of the Apennine Mountains separated from the mainland by the Straits of Messina.

Many powers have occupied this strategically important area 310 mi/500 km south of Rome: Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Phoenicians and, of course, the Mafia. Historical sites related to those powers are part of the island's attraction. (A Mafia tour visits sites of various family activities and the graves of infamous godfathers and victims.)

But there are many other reasons to visit Sicily: watersports, beaches of rock and sand (including black sand), rugged volcanoes and beautiful vistas, good food, prized ceramics and friendly people.

For touring, the island can be roughly divided into the north-shore and south-shore areas. The north shore has reefs, olive groves, secluded coves and countless seaside resorts, including Cefalu, a gorgeous Arab-Norman city with good beaches. Also on the north coast is Palermo, the ancient (and current) capital and the island's largest city. Be sure to visit vibrant Vucciria market and 12th-century Monreale Cathedral, which is 6 mi/8 km west of town (it has some of Italy's most impressive mosaics). Be especially on guard against street thieves and pickpockets in Palermo and other large towns.

About 50 mi/80 km west of Palermo lies the ancient village of Erice, atop a mountain: It still has remains of a temple dedicated to Venus.

The southern coast has an even milder climate, so there's swimming most of the year (although it can get cold there November-March). Among the areas not to be missed are Agrigento (to see the Valley of the Temples); Acireale (a lovely town known for its Carnevale celebrations in late winter as well as its puppet theater); and Taormina (a distinctive, beautiful town perched on cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean).

Mount Etna (10,902 ft/3,323 m) is an active volcano on the east coast—its crater is difficult to reach, so join a guided tour and dress warmly. (In April 1987, two people were killed when Etna erupted. Although it can erupt at any time, deadly incidents aren't common.) There are great ocean views from the mountain, and (depending on volcanic activity) it's possible to ski there in winter. You can also drive the 120-mi/200-km route around its base to see a wide variety of scenery.

Among the ancient Greek and Roman ruins on the island are Taormina's Greek theater, San Domenico Monastery near Messina, the Greek theater and several temples in Syracuse, the fifth-century BC Temple of Concord in Agrigento and the Casale Armerina (a mosaic-encrusted jewel of a Roman villa) in the town of Piazza Armerina, near Enna.

It's possible to visit various island groups that surround Sicily. The Aeolian Islands lie off the northeast coast, the Egadi Islands are to the west and the Pantelleria Islands and Pelagian Islands are to the south. Although rarely visited by North Americans, the Pelagian Islands are interesting: They offer a vacation that's nearly Arab in flavor, with one exception—many of the people on the uncrowded beaches are topless or nude.

Remote and mysterious Pantelleria is 45 mi/72 km off the coast of Tunisia and attracts high-profile celebrities who go there to get away from it all. (Giorgio Armani owns a house on this volcanic island.) There's enough on and around Sicily to keep you busy for eight days.

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Tunis, Tunisia
Overview
Introduction
Tunisia's capital and largest city doesn't offer the laid-back, beach atmosphere of the coastal resorts, but we think Tunis' cultural assets warrant at least a two-night stay. Avenue Bourguiba has the main monuments in the new part of Tunis (the ville nouvelle), but the most interesting sights are in the large and labyrinthine medina. We enjoyed strolling the many streets, watching the flow of people and looking at the architecture. If you want to escape the souvenir and perfume shops and see where some local people live, head to the northern edge of the medina, near Place Bab Souika. Walk along the streets, which are lined with stalls selling everything from camel meat and henna to stereos and dried lizards, and then settle into a cafe and enjoy a glass of coffee or tea.

The Zitouna Mosque (also called the Great Mosque) is the city's main congregational mosque. Non-Muslims may enter the courtyard but not the prayer hall. The medina's many other mosques and medersas (theological schools) serve as local landmarks, and their facades, at the very least, are worth taking note of. The former palaces of Dar Lasram, Dar Ben Abdallah and Dar Othman have been converted into museums or cultural centers—their architectural features are also very interesting. The 15th-century mausoleum complex of Sidi Qasim has also been restored. The former pilgrims' chambers now contain exhibits of ceramics and calligraphy. The country's most renowned museum, the Bardo Museum, has an excellent collection of mosaics and classical sculpture in addition to other Punic and Roman artifacts—it's a must-see.

Several day trips are possible from Tunis. The archaeological zone of Carthage is connected to Tunis by light rail. A bit farther on the same line is Sidi Bou Said, a relaxing seaside town of whitewashed houses with blue doors and climbing bougainvillea. North of Tunis are the remains of the ancient city of Utica, where you can see the ruins of Roman villas and Punic sarcophagi. On display in the museum there are funerary objects and jewels. (We think Carthage is far more interesing than Utica, and it's nearer to Tunis, too.) The ruins of the Roman city of Thuburbo Majus can also be seen on a day trip from Tunis.

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Valletta, Malta
Overview
Introduction
Valletta is Malta's delightful capital city and a World Heritage Site. During a visit in 1830, British Prime Minister Benjamin Disraeli described Valletta as "a city of palaces built by gentlemen for gentlemen." Indeed, what better place to construct lavish buildings and store valuable objects than in a well-fortified city? Although defense was foremost in their minds, the Knights of Malta couldn't have chosen a more scenic spot for their headquarters: The hilly peninsula between two large, natural harbors provides wonderful views in nearly every direction.

Most visitors make a day-trip to Valletta from the resorts, but the capital merits a longer stay or even repeat visits. Despite the relatively long list of sights to cover, take time to venture off the pedestrianized main street, Republic Street, and explore some of the side streets. When you're ready for a break, you'll find there are plenty of cafes and restaurants to choose from. Or just sit for a while in one of the parks that offer fantastic views, such as Upper Barakka Gardens, Lower Barakka Gardens and Hastings Gardens.

The highlight of Valletta's many museums and attractions is St. John's Co-Cathedral, the conventual church of the Knights of Malta. Its austere exterior masks lavish baroque decoration on the inside, in particular the paintings on the barrel-vaulted ceiling covering the nave, the colorful in-laid marble tombstones of the knights set in the floor, and the side chapels, each one decorated by a different langue (regional or language group) of the knights. The Oratory's altarpiece is considered the most significant work of art in the cathedral: Caravaggio's The Beheading of St. John the Baptist. The attached Cathedral Museum has more artworks on display (sacred vestments, Flemish tapestries, illuminated choral books). Audioguides are included in the price of admission.

A close second in terms of lavish ornamentation is the Grand Master's Palace. Although the building serves as the offices of Malta's president and parliament, on most days visitors can view several state rooms. The Armory (which can be visited separately or as part of a combo ticket) is definitely a highlight with its unrivaled collection of military hardware (16th-18th centuries). The Knights of Malta lived in palatial inns, called auberges, according to their various regional origins. The finest is the Auberge de Castille et Leon, now the office of the prime minister (and therefore not open to the public). Government offices also occupy the Auberge d'Aragon and the Auberge d'Italie—they're worth seeing at least from the outside. Fortunately, one of the auberges is open to the public: The Auberge de Provence houses the National Museum of Archaeology (interesting explanations of the various archaeological sites and displays of the artifacts unearthed there).

Another museum installed in a grand residence is the National Museum of Fine Arts. The core of the collection is formed by works previously displayed in the knights' palaces and churches. There are also pieces from subsequent periods by Maltese artists or artists somehow connected to Malta. Another favorite attraction is Casa Rocca Piccola, a 16th-century mansion that provides a fascinating insight into the lifestyle of the Maltese nobility. Performing arts are highlighted at two premier venues: the sumptuous Teatru Manoel (http://www.teatrumanoel.com.mt) and the St. James Cavalier Centre for Creativity (http://www.sjcav.org), housed in a cleverly converted military tower.

The 45-minute audiovisual show called the Malta Experience (http://www.themaltaexperience.com), available in 13 languages, provides a good overview of the islands' 7,000 years of history and culture. Heritage Malta offers two passes for the capital: the Valletta Museums Pass and the Discover Valletta Pass (includes an audioguide for the city). The Valletta Museums Pass can be purchased at any Heritage Malta site. The Discover Valletta pass can be purchased at the National Museum of Archaeology in Valletta or at any Heritage Malta site outside of Valletta.

Across the Grand Harbour from Valletta, on two narrow peninsulas, are the cities of Vittoriosa, Cospicua and Senglea, all of which predate Valletta (but were also heavily bombed during World War II). Locals call them Birgu, Bormla and Isla, respectively, and collectively they're referred to as the Cottonera (the Three Cities) because they are all enclosed on the land side by a double line of fortifications (the sharp angles of the bastions are clearly visible on Google Earth).

Of the three, Vittoriosa has the most to offer, including the Church of St. Lawrence, the Maritime Museum, Fort St. Angelo (a key defensive point during the Great Siege of Malta) and the Inquisitor's Palace. The Malta at War Museum documents the challenging ordeal Malta faced during World War II. All three cities have nice waterfronts with cafes and restaurants. Small boats can also be hired to ferry you back to Valletta.

Just outside of the gates of Valletta is the town of Floriana. Valletta's bus terminus is located there, as well as the Argotti Botanic Gardens—a nice place to stroll if you have some extra time. To the northwest of Valletta, across Marsamxett Harbour, are three sprawling suburbs of interest: Sliema, St. Julian's and Paceville (pronounced pa-che-ville). Sliema is good for shopping, and St. Julian's and Paceville constitute Malta's prime nightlife district. In addition to the many bars and nightclubs there, you'll also find high-end hotels, scores of restaurants and pleasant seaside promenades and yacht harbors. Ferries link Sliema and Valletta, and Sliema is also the departure point for most island cruises.

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Hotels
Hotel Listings

Phone: (356) -2122-5241
Fax: (356) -2123-5254
Toll Free: (356)
Hotel Phoenicia Malta
The Mall, Floriana FRN 1478
info@phoeniciamalta.com  http://www.phoeniciamalta.com
136 Guest Rooms • 6 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s]
Location: Overlooking the Grand Harbour
Nearby Points of Interest: St John's (Cathadral) - 500 mtr • Grand Harbour (Historic Harbour) - 1 km • Mediterranean Congress Ctr (Historic Conf Ctr) - 1 km


Olympia, Greece
Overview
Introduction
The site of the first Olympic Games (which ran from 776 BC to AD 393), Olympia, Greece, is located 180 mi/290 km west of Athens. Olympia still serves as the inspiration for the modern Olympics, which were started in 1896: The eternal flame of Altis, which dominates the site, is the source of the flaming torch carried to the current games.

Major structures include the Temple of Zeus (sixth century BC), the Temple of Apollo, Nero's Villa, the Altis Sanctuary and a museum (superb sculpture displays). The International Olympic Academy is headquartered in Olympia, and there's a Museum of the Olympic Games.

You can stay in Olympia, the nearby coastal town of Katakolon or in Pirgos (about 6 mi/10 km west of Olympia). Pirgos has beautiful architecture (particularly the market and the theater) and lots of little cafes and tavernas.

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Corfu, Ionian Islands, Greece
Overview
Introduction
Part of the Ionian chain, Corfu is one of Greece's most beautiful islands. Once renowned for its notorious nightlife (which is now mainly confined to rowdy Kavos on the south coast), it has rich scenery, numerous cypress and olive groves, rugged mountains, splendid hidden coves, and miles/kilometers of sandy beaches (the one at Paleokastritsa is the most scenic). Highlights include a boat ride into the green and blue grottoes, visiting the monastery, and wandering the narrow alleys of Corfu Town (also referred to as Kerkyra). The town has a wonderfully relaxing atmosphere: Walk through the Venetian quarter, shop for silver or sit in one of the numerous outdoor cafes.

If you have an itching need to do something educational, visit the island's proudest possession, the church of Agios Spiridon, which holds the remains of Corfu's patron saint. The gaudy Achillion Palace (3.7 mi/6 km south of Corfu Town) was built by Elizabeth of Austria in honor of her favorite Greek hero, Achilles. The ferry from Igoumenitsa takes only two hours to reach Corfu (compared with 7 hours for the boat from Patras), but the cross-country drive from Athens to Igoumenitsa is fairly grueling (though you could break the journey at Delphi along the way). It's also possible to fly to Corfu with frequent daily departures. 230 mi/370 km northwest of Athens.

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Dubrovnik, Croatia
Overview
Introduction
Like something out of a picture-perfect fairy tale, the Old Town of Dubrovnik, Croatia, is a walled medieval city, with drawbridges (used in the 1991-92 war) and 18-ft-/6-m-high gates guarding the main entrances. The entire city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but it's also very much a living, breathing city.

From the 1.2 mi/2 km of crenulated ramparts and watchtowers there are some perfect views of the city and the sea. Also, because the Old Town is blissfully free of traffic after 10 am, the main streets (Placa or Stradun), squares and alleyways are perfect for exploring the city on foot.

Most of the inhabitants of Dubrovnik live outside of the Old Town's city walls. However, inside those walls, the streets and alleyways are crammed with tiny shops, bars, cafes and restaurants that spill out onto the street at every conceivable point.

The serious damage from the Serbia-Croatian War has been completely repaired. Locals are still keen to point out the shrapnel and bullet damage that has been retained as a reminder of those dark days.

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Must See or Do
Sights—Views of the city and the sea from the city walls; religious relics and baroque architecture at the Dubrovnik Cathedral and Treasury; a tour of historic Fort Lovrijenac; a concert by candlelight in St. Saviour's Church; the view from Cafe Buza (the Hole in the Wall) and a jump off the cliff—if you dare.

Museums—The Cloister of the Franciscan Monastery and its paintings of the city from times gone by; the city's naval history at the Maritime Museum.

Memorable Meals—Dalmatian cuisine at Restaurant Mimoza; "black risotto" at Locanda Peskarija; the mixed seafood platter at Rozarij; palacinke at Dolce Vita.

Late Night—Live music and wine at Arsenal Taverna; International DJs at Club Lazerati; cool jazz at the outdoor Troubadour; hot disco at the EastWest Beach Club.

Walks—A walking tour of the Old Town; a stroll along Sunj Beach; a morning walk through the Farmers Market on Gundulic Square.

Geography
Dubrovnik is a coastal town overlooked by a range of mountains, the largest of which is Mount Srd. Just 3 mi/5 km across the mountains is Bosnia and Herzegovina, and 25 mi/40 km to the southeast is Montenegro's border. Westward across the Adriatic Sea is mainland Italy.

The old walled city is seated on a small peninsula. Residential and tourism development extends southeast (the Ploce District) along the coast for a short distance and northwest to the nearby port of Gruz. But most people live to the west of the Old Town on the larger bifurcated peninsula, where one part is called Lapad and the other Babin Kuk.

The wide, marble-paved Stradun runs from the Pile gate to the Ploce gate and separates the old city of Ragusa to the south from old Dubrovnik to the north. The Ragusa side has all the grand buildings, churches and squares; the other side has steep climbing paths and steps to the city walls.

Just 15 minutes by boat from the town harbor is the peaceful and undeveloped island of Lokrum, and 25 minutes northwest from the main port of Gruz are the beautiful Elaphite Islands.

The island-studded coast of Croatia is generally referred to as the Dalmatian coast.

History
The history of Dubrovnik is complex and checkered. Roman and Illyrian (from ancient Albania) remains have been found in Dubrovnik, but the site was more permanently occupied in the seventh century. People from the Roman city of Epidaurum, fleeing the invading Avars, settled on the rocky outcrop south of a marshy channel—this eventually was filled in to become the Stradun, the city's present-day main thoroughfare. On this site, they built a fortified city called Ragusa or Ragusium.

Croatian people who settled on the slopes of nearby Mount Srd and on the northern side of the Stradun called their city Dubrovnik. Over the years, the populations mixed, and the city was unified. The Stradun was paved in 1468, but the name Dubrovnik was not officially adopted until the early 20th century.

In the 11th century, Dubrovnik and most of Croatia fell under the dominion of Venice, the eastern Mediterranean's greatest maritime power. After 150 years of Venetian rule, Dubrovnik was transferred to the authority of the Hungaro-Croatian kings. As a republic, the city was left to run most of its own affairs.

General unrest in the Balkans forced Dubrovnik to develop into a maritime trading power that stretched from England to Goa, India. In 1588, the city sent ships to join Spain's "Invincible Armada," which was defeated by the English fleet (led by Sir Francis Drake) off the French coast. Dubrovnik sailors also accompanied Columbus on his journeys west to the New World.

In 1806, Napoleon Bonaparte arrived under the pretext of preventing a Russian invasion—but his troops stayed put. When Napoleon was defeated at Liepzig in 1813, the Austro-Hungarian Empire annexed Dubrovnik.

After World War I, Dubrovnik joined the Kingdom of Serbs, Croatians and Slovenes, which in 1929 became known as the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. In 1944, Joseph Broz Tito's Partisans liberated the city from German occupation.

In the aftermath of the war, Tito's dictatorship and particular brand of communist rule kept Yugoslavia united. His liberalized travel and economic policies provided Croats with a better quality of life than others in the Eastern Bloc. However, after Tito's death in 1980, and the fall of the Soviet Union a decade later, a power vacuum allowed ethnic and nationalistic disputes to take hold of the region.

Resisting President Slobodan Milosevic's attempts to keep a unified Yugoslavia with power centered in Belgrade, Croatia declared independence from Yugoslavia. Serbs within Croatia, who had the support of the Yugoslav People's Army, then declared their own borders within the Croatian state. These actions precipitated an invasion by the Yugoslav army.

Dubrovnik was not part of the Serb-Croat disputed territory but fell under siege from October 1991 to August 1992. The bulk of Yugoslav forces attacking Dubrovnik were from neighboring Montenegro. On just one day (6 December 1991), 5,000 shells rained down on the city. During the siege, snipers shot people in the streets, 70% of the city's buildings were damaged, and 200 defenders and 100 civilians were killed.

Today, Dubrovnik has been restored to its former glory. Five-star hotels have emerged to pamper travelers, an airport serves the city, and the only visible war damage was left there intentionally to remind people of what was lost in the war.

Port Information
Location
There are two options for incoming cruise ships. The main port for large cruise ships is called Gruz and is about 15 minutes by bus from the Old Town. However, almost half of all cruise ships anchor in the deepwater bay opposite the Old Town, and passengers from these ships are tendered to shore.

The port of Gruz is a busy shopping area featuring Dubrovnik's two main department stores, a fish market, a tourist information office, banks, taxis and a bus station. For docking boats, amenities offered at the port include access to fresh water, trash disposal, and connections to electricity and telephones. Additional information on the port can be obtained through the Dubrovnik Port Authority. Phone 020-313-333. http://www.portdubrovnik.hr.

Shore Excursions
Consider signing up for the excursions offered by your ship. They may not be the least expensive way to see the city, but you won't have to waste your limited time making arrangements yourself—and you won't have to worry about missing the ship. Shore excursions, which vary from cruise line to cruise line and usually are not included in the cost of your cruise, might include a guided walking tour of the Old Town; a folklore excursion to the village of Cilipi; a chance to see the Mediterranean gardens, oyster and mussel farms; the sea-salt production of Ston; a wine tour of the Peljesac peninsula or the island of Korcula; and an island-hopping cruise to the nearby Elaphite Islands, where the best beaches are located.
Potpourri
The city of Dubrovnik was named Ragusa until around 1918. At that time, the name Dubrovnik, which is derived from the Croatian word dubrava (for oak forest) became the city's official name.

Croatian-born actor Goran Visnjic, perhaps best known as Dr. Luka Kovac in the television drama ER, was the six-year reigning prince of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival for his lead in Hamlet before heading to Hollywood.

According to local history, Richard the Lionheart gave funds to the city of Dubrovnik to build its cathedral after he found refuge in the city from a storm during his return from a crusade.

The winds through the Adriatic have names, habits and even moods. Maestral is the light summer daytime breeze from the northwest; from the north comes the bora, which is cold and dry but considered good; the jugo blows warm and moist from the southeast and puts the locals in a bad mood.

The main streets of Dubrovnik are paved with shiny, pale-colored marble, which gives the city a refined and elegant appearance.

Near Dubrovnik is the island of Mljet, considered by some to be the location of Calypso's island, where Odysseus was held captive by the sea nymph.

Dubrovnik's city walls represent some of the most durable fortress walls in the region. They encircle the city with a length that spans 6,365 ft/1,940 m.

Fort Lovrijenac is perched on a high steep cliff that is actually an Eocene thrust fault—there's a visible rusty red fault line rolling up the cliff face. The fort was damaged in the earthquake of 1667, along with many other parts of Dubrovnik.

See & Do
Sightseeing
The walled city of Dubrovnik's Old Town is about 1 mi/2 km in circumference, but there is no motorized transport within it, so you'll need comfortable footwear for your explorations. Most of the main sites can be seen without negotiating the steps and steep alleyways leading off the main street. Ploce gate allows access to the city without entrance steps.

Walking around the wall battlements will provide a good overview of the city's main sights, which are all within minutes of each other. However, if you're visiting in July and August, especially during the Summer Festival (mid-July to late August), be sure to get an early start, because this is the busiest season.

Perhaps the most enjoyable time in Dubrovnik is spent strolling through the alleyways peeking in the little shops, stopping in tiny bars and absorbing the medieval atmosphere of a walled city and its well-preserved architecture.

Casinos
Golden Sun Casino Dubrovnik
Located inside the Rixos Libertas Hotel and open 24 hours, the Golden Sun Casino Dubrovnik has more than 70 slot machines, plus 14 tables for roulette, blackjack and poker. The beachfront hotel, about a 20-minute walk or short taxi ride from the Old Town, also has a cocktail bar that features live music. Liechtensteinov put 3, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-638-588. http://www.major.hr.

Historic Sites
Church of St. Blaise
St. Blaise is the patron saint of Dubrovnik (his statue is found all around the town). When the original church dedicated to him burned down, a silver statue of him was the only item not destroyed. The present baroque church was completed in 1717, and the saint's head is stored in a silver box in the cathedral treasury. Daily 8 am-8 pm. Free. Pred Dvorom at the Ploce gate end of the Stradun, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-411-715.

City Walls
A walk along the city's ramparts is the most iconic sightseeing experience in Dubrovnik. The 1-mi/2-km walk along the top of the walls offers the best possible rooftop and sea views and affords great photo opportunities. The main access points are the Pile or Ploce gates or the entrance beside the aquarium. Daily 9 am-6:30 pm. 15 HRK adults, 5 HRK children. Phone 020-425-942.

Dubrovnik Cathedral and Treasury
Richard the Lionheart supposedly paid for the original Romanesque cathedral when he was shipwrecked in 1192 on his way back to England from the crusades. After it was severely damaged by earthquake in 1667, it was rebuilt in the baroque style and is now officially called Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin (Velika Gospa). The Treasury contains more than 100 priceless relics, allegedly including one of John the Baptist's hands, the arms and legs of various saints, part of Christ's crucifix and St. Blaise's head. These items aren't as gory as they sound, because they are all encased in gold. Monday-Saturday 8 am-8 pm, Sunday 11 am-5:30 pm. 5 HRK adults, 3 HRK children. Kneza Damjana Jude 1, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-323-459.

Fort Lovrijenac
You have to climb steep stairs and cross a drawbridge to enter this great defensive structure. It sits above a steep cliff, facing the sea to the west with its 39-ft-/12-m-thick walls. In summer, it's used as a performance stage for plays, notably Shakespearean plays during the Summer Festival. Fee included with the City Wall ticket. Pila district, Dubrovnik.

Onifrio's Great Fountain
This magnificent multifaceted fountain was built in 1444 as an integral part of the city's plumbing system. During the 1991-92 war, it enabled the city's residents to withstand the siege after their water supply was cut off. Just inside the Pile gate at the end of the Stradun, Dubrovnik.

Rectors Palace
You enter this 15th-century building through a beautiful loggia (covered archway with seating). It was the seat of government, a courthouse and prison for the old city of Ragusa. It houses the artifacts from the Dubrovnik Republic era—furnishings, paintings, clothing, coins, stamps and so on. The Gothic and Renaissance inner atrium is a regular musical venue during the Summer Festival. There are dungeons in the basement and state apartments upstairs. In winter, open Monday-Saturday 9 am-1 pm; in summer, open Monday-Saturday 9 am-1 pm and 4-5 pm and Sunday 9 am-1 pm. 15 HRK adults, 10 HRK children. Pred Dvorom 3, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-321-422. http://www.mdc.hr/dubrovnik/eng/kulturnopovijesni/fsdvor.html.

Sponza Palace (Dogana)
This old customs house was built in 1522. It has a beautiful arched portico, Venetian Gothic stonework and Renaissance windows. There is also a memorial room to the defenders and civilians killed during the 1991-92 siege of Dubrovnik. Closed Sunday. Free. At the end of the Stradun near the Ploce gate, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-321-032.

Museums
Dominican Monastery
Napoleon's troops occupied this monastery in 1808, and you can still see where they hacked out horse troughs around the stunning courtyard, which is now filled with orange and lemon trees. The museum holds a great Renaissance library with an 11th-century Bible and a painting of old Ragusa. There is also a marvelous altarpiece by Titian and a room full of votive (religious) gold. Daily June-September 9 am-6 pm, until 3 pm October-May. 10 HRK adults, 5 HRK children. Svetog Dominica 4 by the Ploce gate, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-321-423. http://www.dominikanci.hr (Croatian-language only).

Franciscan Monastery
Rebuilt after the Great Earthquake of 1667, this masterpiece of Romanesque-Gothic style is a regular concert venue during the Summer Festival. It houses what is billed as the oldest public pharmacy in the world (1348), some fascinating paintings of the city and the resting place of Ivan Gundulic, a local poet. The cloisters are beautiful and a peaceful respite from the busy city in high summer. Daily 9 am-6 pm. 6 HRK adults, 4 HRK children. Placa 2 (Stradun by the Pile gate opposite Onofrio's Great Fountain), Dubrovnik. Phone 020-321-410.

Icon Museum
This small upstairs museum has an impressive collection of 15th- to 19th-century religious icons from Russia and elsewhere. Monday-Saturday 9 am-1 pm. Adults 10 HRK, children 5 HRK. Od Puca 8 (next to the Orthodox Church), Dubrovnik. Phone 020-426-260.

Maritime Museum
This museum is housed on the upper level of St. John's Fortress. Because Dubrovnik was once a major maritime power in the Mediterranean, the museum is a vital part of the city's history. Its holdings include a number of maps, old photographs, models and miscellany from the days of sail and steam. In winter, open 9 am-2 pm; in summer, Tuesday-Sunday 9 am-6 pm. Closed holidays. Adults 35 HRK, children 15 HRK. St. John's fortress at the end of Kneza Damjana Jude (beside the harbor), Dubrovnik. Phone 020-323-904. http://www.mdc.hr/dubrovnik/eng/pomorski/index.html.

Museum of Modern Art
Housed in a beautifully restored villa with walkways and gardens, this museum features modern Croatian artists represented in its permanent collection from the fin-de-siecle period as well as other feature exhibitions. Open Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-8 pm. 15 HRK adults, free for children. Outside the city walls, near the Banje Beach, Put Frana Supila 23, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-426-590. http://www.ugdubrovnik.hr.

Neighborhoods & Districts
Gruz
More business than tourist, the Gruz neighborhood is about a 25-minute walk, or a short bus trip, from the Pile gate to Old Town. Gruz is a transportation and shopping hub and has the busy commercial and tourist port, a bus station, and a number of shops, budget hotels and restaurants.

Lapad
Lapad is a green neighborhood north and west of the Old Town. It is an area of excellent hotels, restaurants and beaches.

Old Town Harbor
The harbor is always full of fishing and pleasure boats, and huge celebrity yachts arrive regularly in the summer. A busy fish market springs to life early in the morning.

Recreation
Recreation opportunities are limited within the old walled city of Dubrovnik. In the greater Dubrovnik area, however, there are a number of traditional seaside activities and some reasonable hiking trails around the Babin Kuk Peninsula and up into the forest starting at the Dubrovnik Palace Hotel. It's also possible to walk up the quiet switchback road to the top of Mount Srd for fabulous views of the city.

Boat hire is available at Dubrovnik Marina, but it's probably easier if you ask your hotel to arrange it. Kayaking, horseback riding and snorkeling are available at Lapad Bay, and opportunities for swimming in the sea or in pools are widespread. A number of hotels have their own tennis courts, and public ones are also available at Lapad. There are no golf courses in the area, but discussions have been under way for some time to build one.

Beaches
Dubrovnik is known for its rocky shores and pebble beaches. Except for a few high-end hotels that have managed to close off access to their beach fronts, the coast of Croatia is public domain. Sunbathers there are used to lying on this rugged terrain or on nearby concrete sunbathing areas.

For sandy beaches, you'll have to head to some of the nearby islands in the Elaphite archipelago. However, the swimming is good, and the water is exceptionally clean and clear. Nude bathing, as indicated by the sign "FKK," is permitted on Lapad Beach and some island beaches.
Banje Beach
The small city beach of Banje, just beyond the Ploce gate, is well-known for its pebble beach. There are restaurant, bar and snack facilities in the summer, and chairs and parasols can be rented. Various watersports are available in the summer. Free. Frana Supila (just outside the Ploce gate), Dubrovnik. http://www.croatia-beaches.com/best/dubrovnik_banje_beach.htm.

Lokrum Beach
The short boat ride to the island of Lokrum brings you to its rocky shores and swimming coves (for more advanced swimmers), and a shallow sea lake (called the Dead Sea) for those who want easier access. Lokrum is also popular with nudists; on its eastern shores you can bathe without any swimming attire. There are a few tourist sites, cafes and a restaurant on the island. It’s also a great opportunity to view Dubrovnik from the sea. The ferry leaves from the Old Harbor every half hour from 9 am. Adult tickets are 20 HRK each way. For more information on ferries, contact Javna ustanova Rezervat Lokrum. Od Bosanke 4, Dubrovnik. Phone 385-20-427-242. http://www.croatia-beaches.com/naturist_nudist_FKK/dubrovnik_lokrum_beach.htm.

Sunj Beach
Located on Lopud, one of the Elaphite Islands, this beach is reputedly one of the loveliest in the Adriatic. The beach can be reached by ferry ride from Gruz to Kolocep Island and then on to Lopud. For information on ferry schedules and fares, see http://www.jadrolinija.hr/default.aspx?lang=2.

Boating & Sailing
Adriatic Croatia International Club (ACI Marina)
This yacht club has a range of small craft for hire as well as larger charter options. Open year-round. Fees vary. Dubrovnik Marina (2 mi/3 km north of the Gruz port), Dubrovnik. Phone 020-455-020. http://www.aci-club.hr.

Elite Travel
Among a number of other recreational options, this touring company offers cruises and other boating excursions depending on the season. 500K. Vukovarska 17, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-358-200. http://www.elite.hr.

Scuba & Snorkeling
Diving Center Blue Planet
Training, equipment rental and a variety of dive tours are available through Blue Planet, located in the Hotel Dubrovnik Palace. Popular dives include a sunken ship from World War II and a number of caves. Reservations may be made via the Web site, by phone or in person—stop in about 24 hours in advance to ensure equipment availability. Open year-round, but make phone reservations in advance for diving during October-May. Prices vary depending on services provided. A children's scuba-diving program is also available. Masarykov put 20, Dubrovnik. Phone 091-899-0973. www.blueplanet-diving.com.

Nightlife
Dubrovnik's nightlife scene is mostly limited to a Mediterranean cafe or bar lifestyle. There are a few nightclubs, a hotel casino and a cinema, but most of the evening action is centered on the city's cafes and bars. Sometimes these establishments have live music, and seasonal music bars and occasional discos are open on the Lapad Peninsula. The larger hotels often have a piano bar, lounge or nightclub located in their facility. There is a limited gay and lesbian scene in or around Dubrovnik, and most places aren't particularly gay-friendly. However, the Cafe Troubadour is a popular meeting spot for the gay community.
Bars, Taverns & Pubs
Cafe Buza
Loosely translated as "hole in the wall," Cafe Buza is just that—a quick turn off the wall of St. Stephen leads to this terrace on the cliff. Simple drinks, amazing views, and who can resist the freedom to jump into the blue sea. Buza beach is right below the bar. Daily 10 am-2 am. Crijevicava 9, Dubrovnik. Phone 098-361-934.

Orlandinjo Club
A popular late-night bar in a convenient and safe location, in the Dubrovnik Palace Hotel. Tuesday-Saturday 10 pm-4 am. Masarykov put 20, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-430-000. http://www.dubrovnikpalace.hr.

Dance & Nightclubs
EastWest Beach Club
Dancing, drinks, a trendy restaurant, a beach bar during the day—there's much that makes the EastWest Beach Club the hip, hot spot that it is. You can reserve a table in the nightclub. There's no dress code, but most guests look pretty snazzy. Daily 10 pm-5 am. Cover charge is 50 HRK. Frana Supila bb, Dubrovnik. Phone 385-20-412-220. http://www.ew-dubrovnik.com.

Klub Lazareti
The cellar of the Lazareti complex is a nightclub that often features top European and international DJ acts. Daily 10 pm-4 am. General entrance is 30 HRK; entrance to a live act can be more. Frana Supila 8, Dubrovnik. http://www.lazareti.com.

Live Music
Arsenal Taverna
Part of a group that also owns other local restaurants and a wine shop, this restaurant has a rustic, nautical interior and a large terrace that overlooks the old city port. Dalmatian cuisine is served, and live music and musical shows are offered in the evenings. No cover charge. Pred Dvorom 1 (part of City Cafe complex), Dubrovnik. Phone 020-324-747. http://www.mea-culpa.hr.

Cafe Troubadour
Described as a "hard jazz cafe," this bar has a great collection of jazz that it plays when jazz musicians aren't on stage during the summer. A great place to hang out. No cover charge. Buniceva Polijana 2, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-323-476.

Performing Arts
The Summer Festival is the best opportunity to see traditional performing arts in Dubrovnik. The city doesn't have a concert hall, so theater, opera, orchestra and ballet performances are scattered around town in forts, palaces, monasteries and in open-air venues. The festival is a truly unique spectacle where the environment is as exciting and interesting as the performances. http://www.dubrovnik-festival.hr.

The Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra performs in the 16th-century Fort Revelin where the acoustics are amazing, or at the Rector's Palace. It's worth your time to attend one of the concerts, if possible. http://www.dso.hr.

Concerts by Candlelight, a classical-music concert series, occur year-round in St. Saviour Church. The church is known for its wonderful acoustics. In summer, the concerts are Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 9 pm. Stradun 2, Dubrovnik.

The glorious little Marin Drzic Theatre located at Pred Dvorom 3, is full of gilt stucco, velvet curtains and lined with theater boxes in classic 18th- and 19th-century style. Unfortunately for the visitor, most of the performances are in Croatian. Nevertheless, it is still worth a visit to admire the theater's old-world charm and decor. Phone 020-321-006. http://www.kazaliste-dubrovnik.hr.

The Lindo Ensemble, a famous Dubrovnik folk-dance troupe, performs at various events and cultural celebrations. During the tourist season, they also perform on Monday and Friday at 9:30 pm in Lazareti. Look for posters or inquire at the tourist office for specific details.

Spectator Sports
There are limited spectator-sport opportunities in and around Dubrovnik. Water polo is the big local game, and the spot to see a game is at the beach in front of the Hotel Bellevue. Minor-league football (soccer) can be seen at the stadium in Lapad on Saturday morning.

Professionally organized beach football is played 20 July-10 August, and visiting players are welcome to join in.

Tennis is also a popular sport in Dubrovnik, with international tournaments hosted at the Tenis Klub Dubrovnik, Setaliste Kralja Zvonimira bb. Phone 020-416-315.

Shopping
Dubrovnik is not a great shopping city; however, you will find many souvenir and other shops that sell Dubrovnik mementos throughout the city. There are two department stores at the port of Gruz and another rather ordinary shopping precinct on the Lapad Peninsula.

On Stradun, Old Town's main street, you'll find banks, bookshops and clothing stores, but Od Puca, which runs to the south, has a number of small shops that sell jewelry, watches, photographic equipment and other merchandise. There are also several butchers, bakers and a minimarket. Silver filigree, linens and lace are local crafts specialties.

Shopping Hours: Shopping hours are not consistent from shop to shop and vary throughout the year. Small shops may shut down during the day while the owner goes out for a coffee or an extended lunch break. Generally these shops open around 7:30 am and close around 4 pm, but bigger stores and supermarkets stay open all day and into the early evening.

Bookstores
Algoritam
Sells books, videos and CDs. English-language books are readily available, plus a wide selection of travel guides, cookbooks and photography books. Monday-Saturday 9 am-11 pm, Sunday 10 am-1 pm and 6-10 pm. Placa 8, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-322-044. http://www.algoritam.hr.

Galleries
Galerie Sebastian
A private gallery featuring established and new artists from the region. Most artwork is for sale. Monday-Saturday 9 am-7 pm. Svetog Dominika 5, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-428-326.

Lobel Galerija
A top-notch, quality furniture shop that specializes in individual architectural designs. It also offers free interior-design assistance and assistance with shipping. Monday-Saturday 9 am-3 pm. Od Domina br. 1, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-324-940. http://www.lobelgalerija.com/index.php?furniture=dubrovnik_designersarchitects&lobel=en.

Photo Gallery Carmel
Exhibits and sells the work of talented local and international photographers. Dubrovnik images by Lana Obad Slezic, a Canadian of Croatian heritage, are as striking as the city itself. Monday-Saturday, 9 am-4 pm. Zamanjina 10, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-321-222. http://www.photogallerycarmel.com/home.htm.

Romana Milutin Fabris
Renowned painter of Dubrovnik scenes and buildings in larger-than-life color and size. Monday-Friday 10 am-1 pm and 5-9 pm, Saturday 10 am-1 pm and 6-9 pm. Marojice Kaboge bb, Dubrovnik. Phone 91-501-3318. http://www.romana-milutin.com.

Markets
Farmers Market
The Farmers Market has fresh vegetables and fruits, homemade jams and honey, olive oil, wine, brandy, bread and pastries, and more of what grows fresh and plentiful. Look for figs, pomegranates and oranges when they are in season; otherwise dried figs and candied orange peels are available, too. Monday-Saturday 7 am-1 pm. Gundulic Square, Dubrovnik.

Shopping Areas
DOC Shopping Center
This small above- and underground shopping mall has a large supermarket, shoe shops, clothing stores, souvenir shops, a cafe and more. Monday-Saturday 8:30 am-8:30 pm. Kralja Tomislava 7, Lapad, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-438-092.

Specialty Stores
Aromatica Dubrovnik
At once an ancient art and a current trend, the products in Aromatica are herbal-based remedies and beauty treatments. Scented oils, herbal extracts, creams, soaps, salt scrubs and sea sponges are all produced from local natural ingredients and plant resources. Daily 10 am-10 pm. Zlatarska 3, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-321-270. http://minishop.t-com.hr/aromatica-vet-mm/FeaturedProducts.asp.

Boutique Croata
The cravat and its derivative modern-day necktie were invented in Croatia, so this is the place to get them. Beautiful women's scarves are sold as well. Monday-Saturday 9 am-9 pm, Sunday 9:30 am-12:30 pm. Open till 8 pm, closed Sunday in the off-season. Pred Dvorom 2 (Stari Grad), Dubrovnik. Phone 020-323-526. http://www.croata.hr.

Djardin Gallery
Handmade modern jewelry that uses the treasures of both land and sea—coral, stones, crystals and other materials. Daily 9 am-10 pm. Miha Pracata 8, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-324-744.

DM Drogerie Markt
Part of an international drugstore chain that offers everything from cosmetics and toiletries to health foods, small gifts and other everyday items. Although you can pick up some health-related items there, prescription and other medicines can be obtained only at a pharmacy. Multiple locations throughout Dubrovnik, including one in the DOC Shopping Center. Monday-Friday 9 am-9 pm, Saturday 8 am-2 pm. Vukovarska 13, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-362-6097. http://www.dm-drogeriemarkt.hr.

Foto Studio Placa
Film and digital processing, batteries, memory cards, film, Internet and Internet phone calls, and general accessories. Open Monday-Friday 9 am-9 pm, Saturday 9 am-7 pm. Dropceva 3, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-321-366.

Ronchi Hat Factory
A great place to purchase unique, handmade hats at a good price. Exceptional quality and craftsmanship ensure you a durable hat that is also fun to wear. Monday-Friday 9:30 am-1 pm and 6-8 pm, Saturday 9:30 am-1 pm. Lucarica 2, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-323-699. http://www.dubrovnik-online.com/ronchi.

The Wine Shop
Specialty local wine and liqueur shop that is located across from St. Blaise Church in the City Cafe. There you can select from more than 250 different wines, most of which are produced in Croatia. Pred Dvorom 1, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-321-202. http://www.mea-culpa.hr.

Turbo Limac
A fair-sized toy store with the usual range of children's goods. Monday-Friday 9 am-8:30 pm, Saturday 9 am-2 pm. Domovinskog rata 34, Dubrovnik. Phone 062-062-062. http://www.turbolimac.com.

Itinerary
Day Trips
To Cilipi. The locals from this pretty village often dance and play folk music in traditional costume on the main square on Sunday. Buses run from Dubrovnik directly to Cilipi and take less than an hour.

To the Elaphite Islands. The Elaphite Islands to the north of Dubrovnik can be seen from the Lapad Peninsula or via a ferry from the Gruz port. The ride takes 25 minutes to Kolocep, the nearest island. Lopud is an additional half-hour trip. Once on Lopud, it is a half-hour walk across the island to Sunj Beach, described as one of the loveliest beaches in the Adriatic. Sipan island is farthest away (two hours by ferry from Gruz), but it's the most attractive for hiking. There are also Roman ruins, summer residences and 13th-century churches.

To Korcula Island. The Nona Ana fast catamaran to Korcula Island departs early and returns in the afternoon. The old town of Korcula is said to have been the birthplace of Marco Polo. It is another breathtaking old town, with sweeping stone staircases, walls, towers and alleyways. The Cathedral of St. Marco is the focal point of the town. Korcula is packed with restaurants, cafes and bars.

To Mljet. The entire western part of this island is a national park (admission 90 HRK; http://www.np-mljet.hr). There are two small saltwater lakes (Great Lake and Small Lake), a church and monastery from the 12th century, and plenty of hiking trails. The island used to be infested with snakes, but since the Indian mongoose was introduced in 1911, the snakes are now almost gone.

In summer, the catamaran Nona Ana makes the 90-minute crossing from Gruz to Mljet, departing in the morning and returning in the afternoon. The ordinary ferry is less expensive but does not return the same day, making an overnight stay necessary. Mljet is the perfect getaway for the naturalist, but a city-phile may feel a bit stranded.

Local Tours
Walking tours of the city's historical sites are the most popular group tours by far. However, excursion tours to the nearby islands and to other towns and cities nearby can be easily arranged. Atlas Travel Agency
This full-service travel agency offers guided tours to the famous wine-growing region island of Korcula (considered the birthplace of Marco Polo), to the Elaphite Islands to visit ancient ruins and to the Peljesac Peninsula's wine region. Tours can include wine-cellar visits and tastings, light lunches and a chance to stroll through peaceful island landscapes. They also provide ferry tickets, and yacht and sailboat charters. Vukovarska 19 (down some steps just outside the Pila gate), Dubrovnik. Phone 385-20-442-222. http://www.atlas-croatia.com.

Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board
The Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board offers guided walking tours of the Old Town that cover the main sights, as well as other specialized excursions including wine tasting and adventure travel. For schedules and pricing, contact them directly. Vukovarska 24, Dubrovnik. Phone 385-20-324-999. http://www.visitdubrovnik.hr.

Dubrovnik Walks
Offers guided 90-minute walks of the city's walls May 1-October 15. Daily at 9:30 am and 5:30 pm in July and August, and at 9:30 am and 3:30 pm at other times. 140 HRK (includes ticket to enter the walls). Phone 95-806-4526. http://www.dubrovnikwalks.com.

Kompas Zagreb d.d. Tourist Agency
This agency is part of a larger, international travel group. They offer tours and cruises in Croatia and can also arrange accommodations in Dubrovnik and other Croatian cities. Agency headquarters are at Teslina 12, 10000 Zagreb. Phone 385-1-488-2500. http://www.kompas.hr.

Dining
Dining Overview
The local food, known as Dalmatian, is classic Mediterranean cuisine, which means that it's mainly seafood: red snapper, squid, cuttlefish, octopus and shellfish. The most popular meat dishes are pork, lamb and veal. Just about every restaurant seems to have a special risotto dish.

You'll find restaurants all over the city, but the Prijeko (a thoroughfare running parallel to the Stradun) is packed with tables and chairs during the summer.

There are very few international restaurants in Dubrovnik. The big luxury hotels, such as the Hilton Imperial, Dubrovnik Palace, Grand Villa Argentina and the Excelsior, offer multiple restaurant options and a broader range of international cuisine. But all offer fish and other local specialties in a more elegant and refined (and more expensive) atmosphere.

In true Mediterranean style, opening hours are variable and inconsistent; if business is quiet, an eatery may close early, or it may stay open later if it's busy.

Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than 80 HRK; $$ = 80 HRK-200 HRK; $$$ = 201 HRK-300 HRK; and $$$$ = more than 300 HRK.

Local & Regional
Locanda Peskarija
This restaurant is very popular with locals and serves mainly seafood. There's a small bar downstairs with additional tables upstairs and outside in summer for views of the harbor. This is definitely the place to try "black risotto," a local seafood specialty consisting of rice cooked with cuttlefish, colored and flavored with its own ink (hence its black color). Daily noon-midnight. $$. Most major credit cards. Na Ponti (harbor front), Dubrovnik. Phone 020-324-750. http://www.mea-culpa.hr.

Maestoso
Grilled meat and local vegetables—as well as fish—are the specialties at this popular restaurant. It has views of the harbor and city walls, but the busy road nearby makes dining on the terrace somewhat off-putting. Daily 10 am-1 am. $$. Most major credit cards. Hvarska bb (just outside the Ploce gate), Dubrovnik. Phone 020-420-986. http://www.restaurantmaestoso.hr.

Proto
A stylish fish restaurant, open since 1886, with a popular terrace and a waitstaff in traditional dress. Daily 11 am-11 pm. Reservations recommended in summer. $$$. Most major credit cards. Siroka 1, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-323-234. http://www.esculap-teo.hr/restaurant_proto.html.

Restaurant Konavoka
Family-oriented restaurant that specializes in regional seafood and meat platters. Also popular are its dessert crepes filled with fruit, nuts and ice cream. Daily noon-midnight. $$$. Most major credit cards. Setaliste Kralja Zvonimira 10, Lapad, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-435-105. http://www.dubrovnik-online.com/konavoka.

Restaurant Mimoza
Established in 1953, this long-standing restaurant offers a variety of local specialties as well as traditional favorites, including pasta and pizza. Along with great food, the spacious restaurant is conveniently located. Daily 11 am-midnight. $$$. Most major credit cards. Across from the Hilton Imperial Hotel, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-411-157. http://www.esculap-teo.hr/restaurant_mimoza.html.

Rozarij
For genuine local cooking and Dalmatian specialties served in a small, homey atmosphere, try this local favorite. Its signature dish is a mixed seafood platter. Daily 11 am-midnight. Reservations recommended in summer. $$. No credit cards. Prijeko 2 Zlatarska 4 (near the Dominican Monastery), Dubrovnik. Phone 020-321-257.

Taverna Maslina
Set inside a five-star hotel, this restaurant offers stunning sunset views inside and outside on the terrace, and serves local cuisine with an international flair. Attentive and informative staff. Daily 11 am-midnight. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Dubrovnik Palace Hotel, Masarykov Put 20, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-430-000. http://www.dubrovnikpalace.hr.

Wanda
Popular Mediterranean restaurant that offers both indoor and outdoor dining options. Grilled fish and meat dishes are available along with local and international wines. Complete meals for a fixed price are also on offer there. Daily for lunch 11 am-3 pm and dinner 6 pm-midnight. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Prijeko 8, Dubrovnik. Phone 098-944-9317. http://www.wandarestaurant.com.

Cuisines
Italian
Mea Culpa
Using a wood-fired oven, this cafe and bar serves the best pizza in town. There's outside seating in summer. Daily 8 am-midnight. $. Visa and MasterCard only. Za Rokom 3, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-323-430. http://www.mea-culpa.hr.

Spaghetteria Toni
Friendly, simple and informal, this Italian restaurant serves good pasta and lasagna. Daily noon-11 pm or later; closed January. Reservations not accepted. $$. No credit cards. Nikole Bozidarevica 14, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-323-134.

Breakfast & Brunch
Dolce Vita
Palacinke, thin crepes filled with fruits, nuts, chocolate or vanilla cream—or all of the above—are just right for breakfast, a between-meal sugar boost, or as a sweet end to the day. This is the place to try them; they also have drinks, ice cream and other sweets. Daily 9 am-midnight. $. Cash only. Neljeskoviceva 1-A, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-321-666.

Cafes & Tearooms
Cafe Festival
This local cafe is a great spot to grab a quick bite. Light fare, including salads, omelettes and pasta, is available, along with homemade pastries. Daily 10 am-midnight. $. Placa 28, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-420-888.

Gradska Kavana (City Cafe)
This atmospheric cafe is part of a group that also owns other local restaurants and a wine shop. The cafe has a big terrace out front and a two-level bright and spacious interior. You can order coffee and teas there, as well as a variety of alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks. Try one of their specialty pastries, or have an ice cream dish or fruit cup. $$. Most major credit cards. Pred Dvorom 1 (between the theater and cinema), Dubrovnik. Phone 020-321-202. http://www.mea-culpa.hr.

Seafood
Kamenice
This small, simple cafe serves local seafood and, as the Croatian name suggests, it has an oyster bar that's very popular with the locals, especially during market hours. The tables outside are the best place to sit. February-October daily 8 am-midnight, November-January daily 8 am-3 pm. Reservations not accepted. $$. Visa, MasterCard and American Express only. Gunduliceva Poljana 8 (beside the Pucic Palace Hotel in the market square), Dubrovnik. Phone 020-323-682.

Nautika
A step up on the dining ladder, Nautika has great sea-view terraces, and uniformed waiters graciously attend to your needs. The kitchen serves mostly seafood and meat seasoned with Dalmatian herbs. Daily noon-midnight. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Brsalje 3 (located just outside the Pile gate), Dubrovnik. Phone 020-442-526. http://www.esculap-teo.hr/restaurant_nautika.html.

Other Options
Fresh
An alternative restaurant with very healthy fruit smoothies and veggie wraps by day, and very large, inexpensive drink specials by night. There are happy hour specials, Wi-Fi and a small tourist guide on the Web site. Daily 10 am-2 pm. $. Vetraniceva 4, Dubrovnik. Phone 385-91-896-7509. http://www.igotfresh.com.

Mrvica
Though there are no tables, this takeout eatery serves burgers, hotdogs, pies, pizza and more. And it's not fast food—everything is cooked to order. Monday-Saturday 8 am-2 or 3 am in summer; 8 am-midnight in winter. $. No credit cards. 2 Kunica (just off the Stradun), Dubrovnik. Phone 020-321-521.

Security
Personal Safety
Crime is not much of an issue in Dubrovnik, perhaps because it's a bit like an island with only three narrow exit points. There are no neighborhoods to avoid, although the alleyways leading off the Stradun do seem dark and creepy at night. Plenty of people are always nearby even in the relatively quiet winter period.

However, as with most busy tourist areas, pickpockets are present: Be sure to use commonsense precautions, especially during the crowded Summer Festival.

In an emergency, dial 92 for the police; 93 for a fire. You can also dial 112 for any emergency situation.

For the latest information, contact your travel-advisory agency.

Health
Dubrovnik's General Hospital is on the Lapad Peninsula, about a 15-minute drive from the old city. It has a 24-hour accident and emergency service. Phone 385-20-431-777 or 94 for an ambulance.

There are plenty of pharmacies in greater Dubrovnik—three are located on the Stradun. Hours are generally Monday-Friday 7 am-8 pm, Saturday 8 am-2 pm. There is also an off-hours pharmacy system, which alternates locations between the Stradun and the port of Gruz.

The city water is safe to drink, and the produce also is safe. Summer days are hot, and it's important to use hat, sunglasses and sunscreen lotion against the heat of the day. Be sure to drink plenty of water to stay hydrated.

Disabled Advisory
Dubrovnik's facilities for disabled travelers are generally limited. Higher-end hotels and a few hostels have facilities that are accessible to the disabled. Most of the city's monuments can be reached from the level main street (Stradun), with entry through the Ploce gate. However, inside buildings, it's a different story. As well, the city's byways and alleyways can be steep or have steps.

No electric wheelchairs or any other specific assistance for the disabled is officially available. However, Dubrovnik Hospital has been known to loan ordinary wheelchairs to disabled visitors, and hotels, travel agents or tourist offices are the best resources for making a request.

For additional information on disabled access in Croatia, contact the Croatian Union of Physically Disabled Persons Association (CUPDPA). Phone 385-1-4812-004. http://www.hsuti.hr.

Dos & Don'ts
Do shop for handmade tablecloths and other linens when in Dubrovnik. The craftsmanship is top-notch, and the cloths reflect local patterns and customs.

Don't be afraid to ask locals for directions if you are lost or looking for a site. Croatians are very friendly and often speak other languages fluently.

Do reserve hotel or other accommodations well in advance of your visit to Dubrovnik, especially if you plan to visit in the summer. Rooms are frequently booked solid during peak tourist seasons and accommodations are hard to find without prior reservations.

Don't forget to stop in one of the many smaller cafes that line the alleyways of Dubrovnik. These cafes offer a glimpse into Dubrovnik's local culture, and you can taste some great coffees and other local drinks there.

Do learn a few phases of Croatian to speak with the locals, such as zdravo (hello) and hvala (thank you). The townsfolk will appreciate your efforts immensely.

Hotels
Hotel Overview
There are only two hotels (the boutique hotel Pucic Palace and the cozy, eight bedroom Stari Grad Hotel) within the city walls, so virtually all visitors stay in one of the outer districts. However, there are several hotels within a few minutes walk from the city gates, and others are served by a very regular bus service, which is modern, inexpensive and reliable.

A few hotels have private boat services that operate in the old city harbor. The city has plenty of five-star and international hotels, as well as more basic options for budget travelers. Apartment rentals, ranging from private rooms or full apartments to deluxe villas, are also available.

Hotel Listings

Phone: (385) 20-430333
Fax: (385) 20-430100
Toll Free: (385)
Dubrovnik Palace Hotel
Masarykov Put 20 20000
info@dubrovnikpalace.hr  http://www.dubrovnikpalace.hr
308 Guest Rooms • 10 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s]
Location: On the Lapad peninsula, overlooking the sea
Nearby Points of Interest:



Phone: (385) 20-353353
Fax: (385) 20-353555
Toll Free: (385)
Excelsior Hotel & Spa
Frana Suplia 12 20000
info@hotel-excelsior.hr  http://www.hotel-excelsior.hr
164 Guest Rooms • 5 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s]
Location: On hillside above sea, in the Ploce District
Nearby Points of Interest: Old Town Dubrovnik (Museums, Monuments)



Phone: (385) 20-440555
Fax: (385) 20-432524
Toll Free: (385)
Grand Villa Argentina
Fran Supila 14 20000
sales@gva.hr  http://www.gva.hr
169 Guest Rooms • 8 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s]
Location: 20 km of Dubrovnik airport & easily accessible by road or sea
Nearby Points of Interest: Old city of dubrovnik (historical city) - 1 km • churches & monastries (museums) - 1 km • Cavtat - 15 km



Phone: (385) 20-320320
Fax: (385) 20-320220
Toll Free: (385) 800-HILTONS
Hilton Imperial Hotel Dubrovnik
Marijana Blazica 2 20000
http://www.hilton.com
147 Guest Rooms • 8 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: Adjacent to the walls of the old city
Nearby Points of Interest:



Phone: (385) 20-433500
Fax: (385) 20-433510
Toll Free: (385)
Hotel Komodor
Masarykov put 5 20000
sales_komodor@hotelimaestral.com  http://www.hotelimaestral.com
64 Guest Rooms • 1 Meeting Room • Restaurant[s]
Location: In the Bay of Lapad, which is the greenest part of Dubrovnik City
Nearby Points of Interest: Old City of Dubrovnik (Museums & Monuments) - 4 km • Surrounding Rural Areas (Rural Way of Living) - 25 km • Adriatic Islands (Undisturbed Nature) - 4 km



Phone: (385) 20-326200
Fax: (385) 20-326223
Toll Free: (385)
The Pucic Palace
Ulica Od Puca 1 20000
reception@thepucicpalace.com  http://www.thepucicpalace.com
19 Guest Rooms • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: Overlooking Gundulic Square
Nearby Points of Interest: Old City Walls (monument) - 1 blk • Rectory Palace (museum) - 1 blk • Sponza Palace (museum) - 1 blk



Phone: (385) 20-433560
Fax: (385) 20-433570
Toll Free: (385)
Hotel Splendid
Masarykov Put 10 20000
sales_splendid@hotelimaestral.com  http://www.hotelimaestral.com
59 Guest Rooms • Restaurant[s]
Location: In the area of Lapad Bay, which is the greenest area of Dubrovnik
Nearby Points of Interest: Old City of Dubrovnik (Monuments & Museums) - 4 km • Surrounding Rural Areas (Ruray Way of Living) - 25 km • Adriatic Islands (Undisturbed nature) - 35 km



Phone: (385) 20-322244
Fax: (385) 20-321256
Toll Free: (385)
Hotel Stari Grad
Od Sigurate 4 20000
hotelstarigrad@yahoo.com  http://www.hotelstarigrad.com
8 Guest Rooms
Location: In the heart of historic Dubrovnik
Nearby Points of Interest:



Phone: (385) 20-433580
Fax: (385) 20-433590
Toll Free: (385)
Hotel Uvala
Masarykov put 6 20000
sales_uvala@hotelimaestral.com  http://www.hotelimaestral.com
51 Guest Rooms • 2 Meeting Rooms
Location: Overlooking Lapad Bay
Nearby Points of Interest:



Phone: (385) 20-422933
Fax: (385) 20-423465
Toll Free: (385)
Villa Dubrovnik
Vlaha Bukovca 6 20000
info@villa-dubrovnik.hr  http://www.villa-dubrovnik.hr
56 Guest Rooms • Restaurant[s]
Location: Lovely, peaceful area, yet just short stroll from the medieval city
Nearby Points of Interest: Medieval City Dubrovnik (Museums/Architecture) - 1200 mtr • Franciscan Monastery - 1200 mtr • Rectors Palace - 1200 mtr



Phone: (385) 20-433555
Fax: (385) 20-433550
Toll Free: (385)
Vis Hotel
Masarykov Put 4 20000
sales_vis@hotelimaestral.com  http://www.hotelimaestral.com
152 Guest Rooms • Restaurant[s] • Pets Allowed
Location: In the Bay of Lapad, which is the greenest part of Dubrovnik City
Nearby Points of Interest: Old City of Dubrovnik (Monuments & Museums) - 4 km • Surrounding rural areas (Rural way of living) - 25 km • Adriatic Islands (Undisturbed nature) - 35 km


Facts
Geostats
Passport/Visa Requirements: Passports, but not visas, are needed by citizens of Australia, Canada, the U.K. and the U.S. for stays of up to three months. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier before departure.

Population: 26,452.

Languages: Croatian. However, English, Italian, German and other languages are spoken, especially in tourist-oriented locations.

Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman Catholic, Eastern Orthodoxy).

Time Zone: 1 hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+1 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the end of March to the end of October.

Voltage Requirements: 220 Volts, 50 Hz.

Telephone Codes: 020, Dubrovnik; 385, Croatia;

Money
Currency Exchange
The local currency is the kuna (HRK), which is divided into 100 lipa. It is a stable currency, but as a conveninece prices often are quoted in both kunas and euros, which are widely accepted. Paying for goods and services in U.S. dollars may result in an unfavorable exchange rate for the purchaser. Therefore, using U.S. dollars in Dubrovnik is not recommended.

Most large hotels will change any foreign currency into kunas, and surprisingly, they offer excellent rates. ATMs are widespread, including one at the airport, and are the second-best way to exchange currency. Changing traveler's checks is not a problem in banks or exchange bureaus.

Bank hours vary, but they are generally open 7 or 7:30 am until 7 or 8 pm week days.

Credit cards are widely accepted in hotels and larger restaurants. Cash is best for general day-to-day transactions.

Taxes
The value-added tax (VAT) is 23%, but this is usually included in the price of goods and services. There is a city accommodation tax per night of 1 euro for each adult and 0.50 euro per child age 12-18.

The VAT is redeemable on purchases larger than 500 HRK, but as with most European countries, it's not an easy process. Make sure the store fills out the appropriate tax reclaim form, called a porezni cek, and get the form stamped by a customs official before departure (at the port or airport). The refund should arrive some months later in the mail.

For tax refund inquiries, contact the Croatian Customs Administration. Phone 385-1-610-2333. http://www.carina.hr.

Tipping
Tipping is informal, and it's not universally expected. Usually rounding up with some small change is sufficient. You should tip taxi drivers and other service personnel whose service was exemplary—10% is considered generous. In a nice restaurant with a significant level of personal service, 10% would also be appropriate.
Weather
The weather is typically Mediterranean, with mild, wet winters and hot, dry summers. Snow is very rare, and the temperature rarely drops below 40 F/5 C. Heat can be a problem in high summer, but the mercury rarely exceeds 85 F/30 C (although the temperature can be magnified if you're strolling inside the city walls). Spring and autumn are the best months to explore the city unless you're there for a sun-and-sea vacation. It can rain at any time during winter, and you will often need to wrap up in warm layers or a lightweight winter jacket.
What to Wear
Hats and sunscreen are the most important accessories to wear in the summer months; a light sweater might be needed occasionally in the evenings, especially in spring and autumn. Swimming shoes make the pebble beaches more accessible. Comfortable, even sturdy, footwear is recommended for the many steps and the stone-paved streets. T-shirts and shorts are acceptable around town in the daytime, but showing too much flesh is considered disrespectful when visiting religious buildings. Don't wear swimsuits in town or to cafes. Women do dress fashionably, and businessmen wear suits and ties but can dress casually at times. Croatians are very easygoing, and even very stylish restaurants are happy with casual wear.
Communication
Telephone
Small hotels have direct-dial telephones, and European-banded cell phones work throughout the city (though they're an expensive way of making calls). Your mobile provider can assist you with rate plans prior to your trip and can let you know how (or if) your device will work while traveling.

Phone cards are required for public phones. You can buy them at post offices and at newspaper kiosks. For an international operator, dial 901; for an international directory, dial 902; for general information, dial 981.

Internet Access
Small hotels usually have an Internet corner for guests, and many have dial-up or broadband connections in rooms. Larger hotels invariably have Wi-Fi in some public areas. Internet cafes are everywhere in the Old Town and around greater Dubrovnik. They are well-advertised and impossible to miss.

Users of laptops and hand-held devices equipped with wireless LAN cards can connect to DubrovnikHotSpot and purchase Wi-Fi internet access in one-, three- or seven-day increments. This transaction can occur in their Wi-Fi zones at the port, in the vicinity of the Pile gate or along the Strandun. 50K-150 HRK. Prepaid HotSpot cards are available at the Dubrovnik Internet Centar, Branjtelja Dubrovnika 7, opposite the Hilton, Phone 095-940-3666. http://www.dubrovnik-hotspot.com.

Mail & Package Services
Post Office (Main Office)
Monday-Friday 7 am-8 pm and Saturday 8 am-3 pm. Vukovarska 16, Dubrovnik. Phone 020-362-067. http://www.posta.hr.

Newspapers & Magazines
Few English-language newspapers are available for sale in winter, but in summer you can find papers that are only a day or two old, for sale at small kiosks set up around the city. The larger hotels often print out the Internet edition of American and British newspapers every day. Events calendars, brochures and visitor guides are available through hotels and tourist offices.

Another good source for Croatian news in English can be found in the News section of the Croatian Information Centre's Web site. http://www.hic.hr/english.

Transportation
Dubrovnik Airport (DBV) is located 12 mi/20 km from the city in Cilipi. The relatively small facility is being expanded to double its current capacity for travelers, with additional amenities. The road to and from the airport is in good condition, but it's only one lane in each direction. Phone 385-20-773-100. http://www.airport-dubrovnik.hr.

For 35 HRK, you can take an Atlas bus from the airport into the city. Public buses are also available to ride into Dubrovnik and to other towns nearby.

A taxi from the airport costs about 250 HRK. If you book in advance, you may be able to obtain a discounted fare price. There are taxi ranks at the Pile and Ploce gates, or you can have a taxi pick you up where you're staying. Meters are used for fares, but it's good practice to ask what the fare will be before starting the journey. A dependable taxi service is Taxi and Transportation Service, Dubrovnik. Phone 098-725-769. http://www.taxiservicedubrovnik.com.

Driving is on the right side of the road in Croatia. It is illegal to use a handheld cell phone while driving. Once in the city, however, Dubrovnik's Old Town can only be explored on foot, and all delivery traffic is banned daily after 10 am. If you are driving and encounter any problems, dial 987 for roadside assistance. You can also contact the Croatian Automobile Club (HAK) at 385-1-661-1999 for help. http://www.hak.hr.

The bus network extending from the bus station (not an actual building, just an area) outside the Pile gate is substantial and easy to use. The fare is a flat rate of 10 HRK from the adjacent Libertas kiosk or at travel offices and hotels. You can travel any distance within an hour of stamping the ticket in the machine beside the driver, and no destination in greater Dubrovnik is more than an hour away. http://www.libertasdubrovnik.hr.

The 15-minute ferry from the Old Town Harbor to Lokrum Island is 20 HRK each way. It runs every half-hour in summer. For more information, contact Javna ustanova Rezervat Lokrum. Od Bosanke 4, Dubrovnik. Phone 385-20-427-242. For additional information on ferry schedules and fares, see http://www.korculainfo.com/ferries-korcula.htm or http://www.jadrolinija.hr/default.aspx?lang=2.

For More Information
Current traffic and sailing conditions are broadcast daily in English on Croatian Radio's
Channel 2.
Tourist Offices
Croatian Angels
Via telephone only, this tourist-oriented group provides visitors with information about Dubrovnik in English and other languages. The service operates April-October. Phone 385-62-999-999.

Croatian National Tourist Board
This is the main headquarters of Croatia's tourist board. Lots of valuable information about Dubrovnik can also be obtained from the Web site. Iblerov trg 10/IV, 10000 Zagreb, Dubrovnik. Phone 385-1-469-9333. http://www.htz.hr.

Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board
It provides information about the county and can recommend accommodations in the area as well as provide other travel services. Vukovarska 24, Dubrovnik. Phone 385-20-324-999. http://www.visitdubrovnik.hr.

Dubrovnik Tourist Office
There are several location for the Dubrovnik Tourist Office: Branitelja Dubrovnika 7 (located outside the Pile Gate), phone 385-20-427-591; Siroka 1 (located in the Old Town), phone 385-20-323-587; Obala S. Radica 32 (located in Gruz harbor), phone 385-20-417-983. Hours vary depending on the location and season when visiting. http://www.tzdubrovnik.hr.

Events
Calendar
A number of cultural events and festivals occur throughout the year in Dubrovnik.

Parades and special events honor the city's patron saint on St. Blaise's Feast Day, celebrated on 3 February.

In the summer, the Libertas Film Festival Dubrovnik attracts some celebrities despite its small size. http://www.libertasfilmfestival.com/v2/en.

The Summer Festival (10 July-25 August) is a major cultural event that always draws huge crowds. http://www.dubrovnik-festival.hr.

All sorts of Nativity events (parades, singing, etc.) lead up to Christmas throughout the month of December.

For a listing of daily events occurring in Dubrovnik, visit http://www.dubrovnik-online.com/calendar or http://www.visitdubrovnik.hr/events.

Venice, Italy
Overview
Introduction
Venice, Italy, is romance: a bridge arching over a canal, a gondola gliding by, the moon reflecting off water. Venice is history: the Palazzo Ducale (Doge's Palace), Piazza San Marco, the Grand Canal, great art and great museums. Venice is modern: the headline names and paparazzi of the Venice Film Festival, the vibrating excitement of Carnival in the 10 days before Lent begins.

Venice has a plethora of world-famous museums and artistic treasures. The Basilica of San Marco, with its spectacular Golden Altar; the Bridge of Sighs, where prisoners could enjoy one last glimpse of the beautiful city before entering the dark jail; the Gallerie dell'Accademia, with its collection of art of the 14th-18th centuries; the Peggy Guggenheim Collection of 20th-century art—the list is long. Pick and choose to visit in depth, or just skim over the surface and soak up the atmosphere.

Venice is set on islands connected by bridges, with the Grand Canal as its main street, and traffic moves by boats that range from the traditional gondolas to refuse barges. The absence of automobile noise means you can hear the laughter of children from your window, as well as footsteps seemingly just around the corner. But what makes Venice so unique also challenges its existence. The rising sea levels of global climate change threaten the city, and even now high tides from the Adriatic Sea can flood whole sections of the city.

Although the resident population in Venice has declined as many young people have moved to the mainland, where real-estate prices and the cost of living are lower, the city continues to draw tourists. In fact, the central areas can be packed, people may be brusque and prices are high. Even so, Venice remains a treasure to be savored.

Must See or Do
Sights—Basilica San Marco, Piazza San Marco and the Palazzo Ducale (Doge's Palace); the Grand Canal by boat or gondola.

Museums—Gallerie dell'Accademia; Museo Correr; the Peggy Guggenheim Collection.

Memorable Meals—Ca' d'Oro (Alla Vedova) for cicheti and baked mussels; risotto alla Torcellana at Locanda Cipriani; sea bass with asparagus and radicchio at Casin dei Nobili.

Late Night—Hanging out in Campo Santa Margherita; people-watching at Centrale; strolling the Piazza San Marco under a full moon or on a foggy night.

Walks—Crossing the Rialto Bridge; getting lost in Sestiere di San Marco; wandering down Via Garibaldi.

Especially for Kids—Dressing up for Carnival and parading around town; traghetto rides; exploring the prisons and armory of the Palazzo Ducale (Doge's Palace).

Geography
Venice sprawls over hundreds of low-lying islands in a lagoon in the northern crescent of the Adriatic Sea. A single bridge links it to the mainland city of Mestre. Traffic ends at Piazzale Roma, making the city serenely free of buses, cars and motorcycles—not even bicycles are allowed.

The city's main thoroughfare is the Grand Canal. The islands are also crisscrossed by 177 smaller canals and connected more than 400 pedestrian bridges. Streets are narrow and winding—some little more than sidewalks between buildings. The city is divided into six sestieri (districts): Cannaregio, San Polo, San Marco, Dorsoduro, Castello and Santa Croce.

A map of the city resembles a labyrinth, but surprisingly, it is not too difficult to find your way to the main attractions. Yellow signs are posted on the buildings at most major intersections, with arrows directing you to Piazzale Roma, Ferrovia (the train station, Santa Lucia), Rialto Bridge, Accademia Bridge and Piazza San Marco. Specific addresses, however, can be hard to find, as many streets are so small they aren't on maps. Phone directories usually list addresses by the name of the sestiere and the number of the building, with no reference to a street. Often the easiest way to find a shop or restaurant is to ask—most people are helpful, and many speak English. Hotel employees and shopkeepers are usually quite knowledgeable about their neighborhoods.

Several islands in the lagoon are also part of the city area or connected to the city by regular public boats. In addition to Giudecca (the large island across from the Zattere) and Lido (where you'll find beaches), the best known are the glassmaking island of Murano, colorful Burano and the lagoon's original seat of power, Torcello. The airport is on the mainland, north of Mestre.

History
As invaders swept down from the Alps in the fifth century AD, the farmers and fisherfolk living along what is now Italy's northeastern coast sought refuge on nearby scrub-covered islands. From the safety of their lagoon in the Adriatic, Venetians began building a powerful trading empire. By the ninth century, religious and political power had moved from Torcello to the island of Rivoaltum, where the Venetian leaders began clearing the land and driving wooden piles into the mud beneath the water—laying the foundations of modern Venice. The city's merchants and traders (including Marco Polo's relatives) amassed huge fortunes, which were invested in the city. The fortunes built grand palaces and huge churches, and funded precious art collections (some of which still adorn the Basilica di San Marco and the Doge's Palace).

At its peak in the 1400s, the Repubblica Serenissima (the Most Serene Republic, as it was known) ruled the Adriatic and eastern Mediterranean—its democratic-style government served as an international model for centuries. But the republic soon began to decay, weakened by expansion wars, famines, plagues and finally by invading French troops, led by Napoleon in 1797. French control ended when Venice was ceded to the Hapsburg Empire a few years later. In 1866 it switched hands again, joining the Kingdom of Italy.

Today, Venice is the capital of Italy's Veneto region and one of the country's most-visited cities. Its watery setting and tourism-based economy bring modern challenges, such as structural erosion caused by motorboat wakes and a steadily decreasing population as younger generations move to less-expensive cities with more job opportunities. The proud Venetians are not ones to give in easily, though, and as measures are being taken to protect this fragile city, more travelers from around the world will have the opportunity to discover the treasures hidden within it.

Port Information
Location
The Venice Cruise Terminal (Terminal Venezia Passeggeri) has two main docking areas, San Basilio pier in the Giudecca Canal and the Stazione Marittima, the largest of the two areas and where the biggest ships dock. There's a free shuttlebus to Piazzale Roma, the gateway to Venice, Saturday-Monday for cruise passengers. Alternatively, the Paizzale Roma is only a 15-minute walk from the terminal. Another option is the Venice People Mover, a cable-operated tram system.

San Basilio is just a short walk from the Gallerie dell'Accademia. It's more than 30 minutes to walk from the terminal to the Stazione Marittima and is not recommended. Instead take a water taxi.

Because Stazione Marittima and San Basilio are part of the Terminal Venezia Passeggeri (Venice Cruise Terminal), they have tourist information, duty-free shops and refreshment facilities. All have water taxis. http://www.vtp.it.

Shore Excursions
Consider signing up for the excursions offered by your ship. They may not be the least expensive way to see the city, but you won't have to waste your limited time making arrangements—and you won't have to worry about missing the ship. Shore excursions—and their prices—vary from cruise line to cruise line. Outings include walking or boat tours of San Marco, a few churches and museums, and gondola rides.

Private tour companies may offer day tours, walking tours, gondola trips, excursions to the glass factories and many more, Inquire about pickup from where the cruise ship is docked.

Potpourri
A traditional gondola is 36 ft/11 m long and weighs 1,325 lbs/600 kg. They are almost always painted black.

In the 16th century, an anonymous writer published an escort guide for visitors that listed the names, addresses, looks, skills and costs of the most beautiful courtesans in Venice. In 1509, about 11,500 working girls are said to have offered their services in Venice, which had a population of 170,000 at the time.

Amaretti (dome-shaped cookies) were first made in Venice during the Renaissance period.

St. Mark is the patron saint of Venice. His symbol of a winged lion holding a book can be seen on many of the older buildings. If the book is open, Venice was at peace when the building was erected; if closed, Venice was at war.

Casanova made the city synonymous with lovers. Once imprisoned in the Doge's Palace, he escaped by fleeing across the rooftops.

City-son Marco Polo is attributed with introducing both pasta and window blinds to Italy from the Far East.

The still-standing "Bridge of the Tits" in San Polo was named after the working girls who displayed themselves on the bridge and in the windows of the nearby houses in a "tempting state of undress" while the light from oil lamps illuminated the spectacle. In the 16th century, this practice was actually encouraged by the city to lure suspected gays back to the straight pleasures of life.

See & Do
Sightseeing
The best introduction to Venice is a boat ride on the Grand Canal, and it doesn't really matter whether the vessel is a velvet-cushioned gondola or a utilitarian vaporetto (public water-bus). The S-shaped canal slices the city in half: Lining each side is an astonishing collection of 12th- to 18th-century buildings. Some of the baroque palaces look as elegant as they did when the doges ruled the city, though other architectural gems are crumbling into the murky water.

As you travel along Venice's Grand Canal, you'll also see what life is like in a city without automobiles. Cargo barges ply the narrow waterway along with police and fireboats. Classic wooden cabin cruisers take tourists to luxury hotels, and skilled gondoliers negotiate their sleek black vessels under bridges and around bends. Venice's canals are a visual parade.

Once you have oriented yourself to the waterways, set out on foot. Pick up a map, but expect to get lost—it's an inevitable part of the experience. Streets meander across canals, through campi (squares) and around buildings—often changing names as well as direction. If that isn't confusing enough, some streets are flooded in the winter because of aqua alta—high water.

You'll want to spend most of a day visiting the sites close to the Piazza San Marco. The Doge's Palace offers a fascinating look at how the city's leaders lived and managed the republic, and the colorful religious mosaics at the San Marco's Basilica are some of the most stunning in the world. Take in the view from the top of the Campanile if it's a sunny day. From the piazza, it's an easy walk to the Rialto Bridge, where you can browse the shops and enjoy views of the Grand Canal.

Across the Grand Canal from San Marco, via the timber Accademia Bridge, is Dorsoduro, where you'll find two very different museums. The Gallerie dell'Accademia is the city's signature art repository, containing the best works of the prolific Italian Renaissance painters. A few blocks away (but worlds apart) is the Guggenheim Collection, a canal-front palazzo that was fashioned into a modern and avant-garde art gallery by an American heiress.

There's a host of other spots to visit—from the Jewish Ghetto and the city's many ornate churches to the islands of Murano and Burano. A moonlit walk along a canal or an early-morning stroll through the winding streets of a secluded residential area can prove just as illuminating as a tour of the city's major attractions.

Note: The Venice Card, the multipurpose tourist card covering municipal museum entrance fees, tickets on public water buses (vaporetti) and use of public restrooms, has been replaced by the Venice Connected, which has an exceedingly complicated structure of pricing and the type of services you want it to cover. Full details available on the Web site. http://www.veniceconnected.com.

Visitors can also take advantage of the Chorus Pass Intero, a card that gives a single user unlimited entrance to Venice churches for a period of up to one year. It's definitely worth the price just for visiting San Marco several times. Offered by the Venice Church Association, the card costs 10 euros. A Chorus Pass Family (for two adults and children younger than 18 years of age) offers the same plan as the Chorus Pass Intero and is available for 20 euros. Chorus—Associazione per le Chiese del Patriarcato di Venezia, San Polo 2986, Venice. Phone 041-275-0462. http://www.chorusvenezia.org.

Historic Sites
Basilica di San Marco
San Marco's Basilica embodies Venice's historical role as a bridge between East and West. Its five cupolas laid out in a cross pattern are strikingly Byzantine, though details both inside and out reflect the Romanesque and Renaissance periods. Under the overlay of mosaics, patterns of colorful marble and innumerable carvings, the main architectural influences are Gothic. Have a look at the 13th-century carvings on the central doorways, representing the Labors of the Month. Don't wait for your neck to start aching before you pass up the exterior mosaics and move to the gold-lined interior of the basilica. You'll find this structure filled with artistic decorations that were used to awe the public with the might of the church, as well as teach the stories of the Bible and saints. The mosaics of the Central Dome of the Ascension and the Dome of the Pentecost are particularly stunning.

Among the treasures within the basilica are more than 500 columns adorned with sculptures, puzzle-work floors made from Egyptian marble, walls covered with allegorical mosaics, Gothic arches and extravagant bronze lamps. Behind the altar is the Pala d'Oro, a screen of precious stones, gold and enamel objects dating to AD 976. The Tesoro (treasury) contains items stolen from Constantinople in 1204, including several gem-studded gold and silver caskets. Also located at St. Mark's Museum are tapestries, paintings and the original bronze horses that adorned the church's facade. They were trophies from the Fourth Crusade (the ones over the portal on the Loggia dei Cavalli are copies).

Avoid the crowds by visiting early in the morning or in the evening, although the mosaics will only reveal their full splendor when the church is fully illuminated (approximately Monday-Friday 11:30 am-12:30 pm, Saturday 11:30 am-4 pm, Sunday 2-4 pm). Dress modestly (knees and shoulders should be covered) and check in larger bags around the corner at the Ateneo di San Basso. The Basilica is open 9:45 am-5 pm, St. Mark's Museum till 4:45 pm. The Pala d'Oro and the Tesoro are open 9:45 am-4 pm. The Pala d'Oro and the Tesoro are open 9:45 am-4 pm (5 pm Easter-November). Sunday and public holidays open 2-4 pm (5 pm Easter-November). Entrance to the Basilica is free. Other admission fees include 2 euros for Pala d'Oro, 3 euros for the Tesoro and 4 euros for St. Mark's Museum. Piazza San Marco, Venice. Phone 041-270-8311. http://www.basilicasanmarco.it.

Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari
Completed in 1443, this large and lofty Gothic brick cathedral, generally referred to as the "Frari" (for the friars who once lived there), is one of the city's most important sites. Art lovers make a beeline to the high altar with Titian's revolutionary Assumption of the Virgin (1518) with the Madonna clad in a flaming red robe, and there are works by Giovanni Bellini, Antonio Rizzo and Donatello as well. The richness of the paintings and sculptures is outstanding, and the works stand in contrast to the simplicity of the interior. Check out the Monk's Choir, which has three-tiered stalls from 1468 carved with puzzle-work bas-reliefs of saints and Venetian city scenes. The church also has the tombs of the sculptor Canova, the composer Monteverdi and two doges. Open Monday-Saturday 9 am-6 pm, Sunday 1-6 pm. 3 euros. Frari is part of the Chorus Card circuit. Campo dei Frari, San Polo, Venice. Phone 041-272-8611. http://www.basilicadeifrari.it.

Basilica Santa Maria della Salute
Venetians built the Basilica of Our Lady of Good Health to show their gratitude to the Virgin Mary for delivering them from a terrible plague—it's hard to miss this massive marble church situated at the end of the Grand Canal. The architect Baldassare Longhena dedicated his life to this building, which was completed in 1687 and is the heaviest structure in Venice. On the high altar, you'll see a gorgeous Byzantine icon dedicated to the Virgin. On a minor altar, there's a large painting by Titian, The Pentecost. More of Titian's works can be seen on the ceiling of the sacristy, where you'll also find a work by Jacopo Tintoretto. Every 21 November, people flock to the church, crossing the Grand Canal on a pontoon bridge from Campo San Maurizio. Daily 9 am-noon and 3-5:30 pm. Church admission is free; 1.50 euros to enter the sacristy. Campo della Salute 1/B, Dorsoduro, Venice. Phone 041-522-5558.

Campanile di San Marco
St. Mark's bell tower, the tallest (322 ft/98 m) structure on the piazza, offers magnificent views of the city on a clear day. The present tower was built in 1912, replacing the original that was begun in the ninth century and completed in the 16th century—it tumbled to the ground in 1902. Access to the viewing platform is by an internal lift installed in 1962. Daily 9 am-7 pm Easter-June, 9 am-9 pm July-September, 9 am-7 pm October, 9:30 am-3:45 pm November-Easter. 8 euros. Piazza San Marco, Venice. Phone 041-522-5205. http://www.basilicasanmarco.it.

Chiesa dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo
Dedicated to Saints John and Paul, this cavernous Gothic church (more familiarily known as San Zanipolo) is one of the largest in Venice. It's often called "the Pantheon of Venice" because of the 25 doges' tombs within. An important stop on the art-history circuit, it houses paintings, including Giovanni Bellini's The Polittico di San Vincenzo Ferreri and three by Paolo Veronese. The Monument to Doge Pasquale Mocenigo (1481) is a masterpiece by sculptor Pietro Lombardo celebrating the doge's military pursuits. In the square out front stands Andrea Verrocchio's monument to Bartolomeo Colleoni. This famous mercenary requested a statue in San Marco as his battle payment. The clever doge agreed, but instead of putting the figure on the piazza, he had it placed in front of the Scuola di San Marco (the San Marco School). Open Monday-Saturday 7:30 am-6:30 pm, Sunday noon-7:30 pm. Ticket office closes one hour before closing. 2.50 euros. Campo dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo, Castello, Venice. Phone 041-523-5913.

Chiesa della Madonna dell'Orto
This church was originally dedicated to St. Christopher, patron saint of ferrymen, merchants and travelers, and his statue still stands over the main door. It's an elegantly spare brick Gothic church now dedicated to the Madonna of the Garden and with a campanile crowned by an onion-shaped cupola. Tintoretto lived just around the corner. His tomb (in a chapel to the right of the chancel) is marked by a plaque. He graced the church with a terrifying Last Judgment that is on the right wall; note the classical figure of Charon ferrying the souls of the dead. In the painting The Adoration of the Golden Calf on the left wall, the figure carrying the calf, fourth from the left, is said to represent Tintoretto himself. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-5 pm, last entry at 4:45 pm. 3 euros. Campo della Madonna dell'Orto, Cannaregio, Venice. Phone 041-171-9933. http://www.madonnadellorto.org.

Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli
This colorful little marble church is tucked away in a picturesque square near the Chiesa dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo. Built in 1481-89 by Pietro Lombardo, Miracoli houses Nicolo di Pietro's Virgin and Child—a painting believed to have miraculous powers. A favorite among Venetians, Miracoli brings the magnificence of a cathedral down to a more human scale and, with its decorative geometric patterns of colored marble, is a notable example of the Venetian early Renaissance. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-5 pm, Sunday 1-5 pm. 3 euros. Campo dei Miracoli, Cannaregio, Venice. Phone 041-275-0462.

Palazzo Ducale
The Doge's Palace served as the seat of the government of the Repubblica Serenissima, the Palace of Justice and the residence of the doge. The original palace was built in the ninth century AD; several fires made a complete reconstruction necessary in the 14th century. The Venetian use of geometric designs across the facade arrests the eye, and the use of arches along the bottom of the building creates a lacelike effect. Its main gate, the Porta della Carta, is the picture of Venetian Gothic architecture. Another masterpiece is the 15th-century marble Scala dei Giganti (Giants' Stairs), designed by Renaissance architect Antonio Rizzo. It was used for ceremonial purposes, including the crowning of the doges. Many rooms are decorated with paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, Paolo Veronese, Giovanni Tiepolo and Titian. One wall of the main salon (Sala del Maggior Consiglio) is entirely covered with Tintoretto's enormous Paradiso, one of the largest paintings in the world. A frieze round the upper walls of the room shows the first 76 doges of Venice, with the exception of the decapitated traitor Marin Falier (whose spot is marked by a black flag). Look up to admire the ceiling with panels glorifying the Republic. The most beautiful is Veronese's Apotheosis of Venice from 1583.

The palace also contains an arresting display of ancient arms. From the main building, you can cross the Bridge of Sighs to the doge's prisons. Do not miss the under-advertised tour of the itinerari segreti (secret passageways), which will show you the offices and Hall of the Chancellery, the State Inquisitor's room, the Torture Chamber (where suspects were interrogated as they hung by their wrists) and the notorious piombi prison cells under the lead roof, from which Casanova made his daring escape in 1755. Yet the full horror awaited prisoners who were confined to the dark, humid pozzi dungeons at ground level, which often flooded. Open 9 am-6 pm November-March, 9 am-7 pm April-May, 8:30 am-6:30 pm June-October; ticket office closes one hour before closing. Closed Christmas and New Year's Day. 13 euros fee (16 euros with a tour of the itinerari segreti) includes admission to the four museums of St. Mark's Square (including Doge's Palace) plus entrance to one additional museum of your choice that is run by the Musei Civici Veneziani organization. Free entrance to disabled visitors with an escort. Tours are available in English. They are limited to 25 people and last 75 minutes (in English at 9:55 am, 10:45 am and 11:35 am). Book in advance at the palace or phone 041-520-9070. Piazza San Marco, Venice. Phone 041-271-5911. http://www.museiciviciveneziani.it.

Piazza San Marco
With three sides of the Piazza lined by dignified palazzos featuring elaborate marble facades and the fourth showcasing San Marco's Basilica with its four bronze horses and crown of Byzantine domes, this is, as Napoleon put it, the "finest drawing room in Europe." The northern side is composed of the 16th-century Procuratie Vecchie (the old city administrative offices), and the southern side of the 17th-century Procuratie Nuove (new city administrative offices). Across from the Basilica is Napoleon's 1810 addition, now housing the Museo Correr. Chairs and tables spill into the open plaza, and serenading orchestras perform in front of arched porticos that shelter expensive shops and cafes.

Filled with splendid works such as the Campanile and two Syrian pillars (brought to Venice in 1256), the Piazza San Marco is a feast for the eyes. Don't miss the Piazzetta di San Marco in front of the Doge's Palace, which contains the Marciana Library (built in the 1530s) and the two monolithic columns holding symbols of the city, the lion of Saint Mark and Saint Theodore riding a dragon; or the Piazzetta dei Leoncini on the other side of the Basilica, with its two small red-stone lions. The clock tower (featuring two bronze figures, the Moors, that strike the hour) and its intricate astronomical clock can be visited with a guided tour (12 euros entrance fee also includes admission to the Correr museum, the National Archaelogical museum and the state rooms of the Biblioteca Marciana). Closed Christmas and New Year's Day. Phone 848-082-2000. http://www.museiciviciveneziani.it.

Ponte dei Sospiri
The Bridge of Sighs was aptly named: Prisoners crossed it on their way to meet the state inquisitors. From Ponte di Paglia, an ornate bridge beside the Doge's Palace, you can look up at the bridge. Dwarfed by the palace and the prisons, this marble structure seems to peer out at the open water from the two lonely eyes of its windows. While touring the Doge's Palace, you can walk across the bridge and look out at the canal from within. At the head of Riva degli Schiavoni (behind the Doge's Palace), San Marco, Venice.

Ponte di Rialto
Originally little more than a bunch of boats spanning the Grand Canal, the now-massive Rialto Bridge was built in marble by architect Antonio Da Ponte in 1588-91. Its construction cost 250,000 gold ducats, a breathtaking sum in those days. Halfway down the Grand Canal, it lies midway between the train station and Piazza San Marco. It is by far the most elaborate and memorable of the bridges that cross the Grand Canal. Two rows of tiny shops line the span, and you will find an illuminating view of the very active canal at the top.

Scala Contarini del Bovolo
Currently closed for renovations, Contarini's staircase is one of the architectural gems hidden in the winding streets of Venice. Called del Bovolo (the Venetian word for snail), the tower's exterior spiral staircase is lined by spiraling arched windows that mirror the building's facade in a mixture of early-Renaissance, Byzantine and late-Gothic styles. The view from the top of the tower takes in the campanile and domes of San Marco along with the red-roof tiles of Venice. 3 euros. Located off Campo Manin in Corte del Bovolo, San Marco 4299, Venice. Phone 041-260-1974.

Scuola Grande di San Rocco
One of the most visited sites for art in Venice, this former confraternity building completed in 1549 is renowned for its paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, including his Allegories, Life and Passion of Christ (in the Sala dell'Albergo) with a stunning crucifixion, and Ancient and New Testament Episodes (on the walls and ceiling of the upper hall) with a striking Temptation of Christ and a equally fascinating Adoration of the Shepherds. Hire a mirror at the entrance to avoid neck pain. Be sure to see Titian's Annunciation near the entrance of the Sala dell'Albergo. Unfortunately the paintings are not very well-lit. Daily 9:30 am-5:30 pm. Ticket office closes 30 minutes earlier. Closed Christmas, New Year's Day and Easter. 7 euros admission fee includes audio guide. Free entrance to members of the clergy. Campo San Rocco (behind the Frari), San Polo, Venice. Phone 041-523-4864. http://www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it.

Museums
Visitors can purchase a combination ticket (Museum Pass), which includes entry to the Doge's Palace and all the city museums for 18 euros. Unlike the Venice Card, it is valid for up to six months instead of just a 24-hour period, but it grants only one admission to each museum. Most museums are closed on Christmas and New Year's Day. http://www.museiciviciveneziani.it/frame.asp?pid=196&z=2&tit=biglietti. Ca' d'Oro
The House of Gold (named for its once-abundant gilt work and otherwise colorful facade) houses the Galleria Franchetti. A typical example of an ancient noble palazzo, its wedding-cake facade is a gorgeous display of Gothic architecture. It displays sculptures, bronzes and paintings by Venetian, Flemish and Dutch artists—including Jacopo Sansovino, Alessandro Vittoria, Titian, Andrea Mantegna, Giorgione, Jacopo Tintoretto and Van Dyck. The mosaic floor of the palazzo's androne (the large ground-floor room opening on the canal) is impressive, as are the views from the second- and third-floor marble balconies onto the Grand Canal and fish market. Open Monday 8:15 am-2 pm, Tuesday-Sunday 8:15 am-7:15 pm. Ticket office closes 30 minutes earlier. 6.50 euros adults, 3.50 euros ages 18-25 and state teachers, free for E.U. citizens younger than 18, older than 65 or disabled (with an escort). Cannaregio 3932, Venice. Phone 041-522-2349. http://www.cadoro.org.

Ca' Pesaro
This famed baroque palazzo houses the International Gallery of Modern Art, which was founded in 1897 as a showcase for modern Venetian artists. On permanent display are works by such famed artists as Henri Matisse, Gustav Klimt, Paul Klee, Wassily Kandinsky, Marc Chagall and Joan Miro alongside 19th- and 20th-century Italian artists. Various temporary art exhibitions are also on display. Open daily except Monday 10 am-5 pm October to mid-March, 10 am-6 pm mid-March to November; ticket office closes one hour early. Closed Christmas, New Year's Day and 1 May. Tickets 6.50 euros. Free entrance to disabled visitors with an escort. Near Campo San Stae, Santa Croce 2076, Venice. Phone 041-721-127. http://www.museiciviciveneziani.it.

Ca' Rezzonico
This museum of 18th-century art presents many aspects of life in 18th-century Venice. It contains a complete apothecary, a floor dedicated to noblewomen, and works of art by Vittore Carpaccio, Giambattista Cima, Jacopo Tintoretto, Pietro Longhi, Lelio Orsi and Giovanni Canaletto. With a ballroom taking up the entire width of the palazzo, frescoes by Giovanni Tiepolo and Francesco Guardi, carved furniture and provocative paintings, the museum offers a glimpse into the life of the wealthy Venetians of a bygone era. Poet Robert Browning's son purchased the palazzo in 1880, and Browning himself lived there from 1888 until his death in late 1889. Open daily except Tuesday 10 am-5 pm November to mid-March, 10 am-6 pm mid-March to October. Last admission one hour before closing. Closed Christmas, New Year's Day and 1 May. Tickets 7 euros. Free entrance to disabled visitors with an escort. Near Campo San Barnaba, Dorsoduro 3136, Venice. Phone 041-241-0100. http://www.museiciviciveneziani.it.

Fondazione Querini Stampalia
This beautifully restored Renaissance palace offers an idea of what life was like for the nobility. A wonderful picture gallery features scenes of everyday life by Pietro Longhi. Modern leading architect Carlo Scarpa has made noteworthy additions. Concerts are held for visitors at 5 and 8:30 pm on Friday and Saturday. Open daily except Monday 10 am-8 pm. Admission is 10 euros. Campo Santa Maria Formosa, Castello 5252, Venice. Phone 041-271-1411. http://www.querinistampalia.it.

Gallerie dell'Accademia
Venice's premier art museum features one of the most important collections of 14th-18th century Venetian paintings. Room 1 has Byzantine and international Gothic art, including the early Venetian painter Paolo Veneziano with a sumptious Coronation of the Virgin (1325). See the superb, enigmatic landscape of Tempesta by Giorgione—centuries ahead of its time—and several works by Jacopo Bellini, Andrea Mantegna, Jacopo Tintoretto, Titian (with a huge Presentation of the Virgin in the Sala dell'Albero), Paolo Veronese (Feast in the House of Levi) and Giovanni Tiepolo. Note Vittore Carpaccio's Healing of the Madman (c. 1496), which shows the old wooden Rialto Bridge before it collapsed in 1524. Because it's high on many people's lists of places to see, be prepared for a wait and go early to see everything. Open Monday 8:15 am-2 pm, Tuesday-Sunday 8:15 am-7:15 pm. Last admission is 45 minutes before closing. 7.50 euros. Campo della Carita (directly at the foot of the Accademia Bridge), Dorsoduro, Venice. Phone 041-522-2247. http://www.gallerieaccademia.org.

Museo Correr
This rich collection of Venetian art and history includes relics from the Repubblica Serenissima and paintings by Jacopo Bellini, Vittore Carpaccio (including his famous Portrait of a Young Man in a Red Hat and Two Venetian Ladies) and others. Don't miss the marble sculptures by Canova. Open daily 9 am-5 pm November to mid-March, 9 am-7 pm April-October. Last admission one hour before closing. Closed Christmas and New Year's Day. 13 euros fee includes admission to the four museums of St. Mark's Square (including Museo Correr) plus entrance to one additional museum of your choice that is run by the Musei Civici Veneziani organization. Free entrance to disabled visitors with an escort. Piazza San Marco, Ala Napoleonica (at the western edge of the piazza), San Marco 52, Venice. Phone 041-240-5211. http://www.museiciviciveneziani.it.

Museo della Musica
Information on Antonio Vivaldi as well as musical instruments from the baroque period are on display in a restored church. Music by Vivaldi and other composers can also be purchased. Daily 9:30 am-8:30 pm. Free. Chiesa di San Maurizio, Campo San Maurizio, San Marco, Venice. Phone 041-241-1840.

Museo Ebraico
This museum displays works of art and items related to Jewish religious life, such as historic ketuboth (wedding contracts), precious silverware and ritual objects. It also offers guided tours of the ghetto in English, and area synagogues and the Jewish cemetery can be visited. Open Sunday-Friday 10 am-6 pm October-May, 10 am-7 pm June-September. Closed Saturday, Jewish holidays, Christmas, New Year's Day and 1 May. 3 euros. Guided tours in various languages cost 8.50 euros (including museum admission). Campo del Ghetto Nuovo 2902/B, Cannaregio, Venice. Phone 041-715-359. http://www.museoebraico.it.

Peggy Guggenheim Collection
American patron of the arts Peggy Guggenheim lived in this famous home-museum, the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, for 30 years. In 1979, she opened her collection of 20th-century masterpieces to the public. Almost every major modern-art movement is represented, with works by Pablo Picasso, Wassily Kandinsky, Rene Magritte, Joan Miro, Salvador Dali, Alexander Calder, Jackson Pollock and countless others. The palazzo, facing the Grand Canal, also has an outdoor sculpture garden and hosts temporary art exhibits. Its nearby gift shop is full of modern-art mementos, and there is a lovely terrace coffee shop and restaurant. Open daily except Tuesday 10 am-6 pm. Ticket counter closes at 5:45 pm. Admission 12 euros adults, 10 euros seniors, 7 euros students. Free for children younger than 10 and disabled visitors with an escort. Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, Dorsoduro 701, Venice. Phone 041-240-5411. http://www.guggenheim-venice.it.

Neighborhoods & Districts
Cannaregio
This the northern district of Venice that stretches from the Fondamenta Nove to the railway station and along the Canale Grande to the Rialto Bridge. The Fondamenta Nove looks out to the Cimitero on the Isola di St. Michel and to the islands of Murano and Burano beyond. The Strada Nova is the main street of the area, bustling with shops, stalls, restaurants, bars and street theater. Elsewhere, Cannaregio is a tranquil backwater, and at the center of this is the Jewish Ghetto.

Venice has the dubious distinction of having the oldest Jewish ghetto in the world, dating back to 1516. The Jewish population was required to remain within the ghetto boundaries, adhere to strict curfews and follow many other harsh regulations. Five synagogues, each representing a different ethnic group, were built between the 16th and 17th centuries. You can learn more about the area's history by visiting the Museo Ebraico (Jewish Museum), where you can join a guided tour of the area. At the center of the district, on the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo in Cannaregio, you'll see Arbit Blatas' moving bronze wall-tablet memorializing the victims of the Holocaust. The area also comprises the Ghetto Vecchio and the Ghetto Novissimo. (From the train station, take Lista di Spagna over the bridge Ponte delle Guglie and turn left alongside the Canale di Cannaregio; turn right at the third street). Phone 041-715-359.

Dorsoduro
This varied neighborhood stretches from just below the busy Piazzale Roma, next to the railway station to the Dogana, where the 8-ft/ statue of the Boy with Frog by American sculptor Charles Ray looks out over the entrance to the Canale Grande. The charming area hosts the broad Zattere along the Canale della Giudecca, perfect for fare la passegiatta, that leisurely and sociable stroll that Italians love. The university is there as well as several museums.

At the center of Dorsoduro is the lively Campo Santa Margherita, full of outdoor cafes and restaurants, news and vegetable stands. With a fish market in the morning and a flower market twice a week, the campo is a microcosm of Venetian life. Parents gather to chat as children hold soccer matches and students take a break at the popular surrounding bars, where the night life continues later than anywhere else. During Carnival, the party moves to the campo after the scheduled events in Piazza San Marco die down.

Sestiere di San Marco
This district, in the curve of the Canale Grande from Piazza St. Marco to the Rialto Bridge, is where most of the notable sites of Venice are located and, therefore, most of the tourists. It contains the cluster of Piazza San Marco, San Marco's Basilica, the Doge's Palace and the Bridge of Sighs, as well as the opera house La Fenice and the Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. The maze of designer-shopping streets of the Frezzeria and San Moise rounds out the picture.

Via Garibaldi
Step into another dimension by taking a twilight stroll down Via Garibaldi. The villagelike feel of this Castello neighborhood is particularly poignant in the evening, when locals go out to catch up on the day's happenings and children play in the street. Don't expect many tourists. After the dinner hour, this part of town shuts down for the night.

Recreation
With all the museums and art exhibits to cram into your visit, recreation takes a backseat to culture. Joggers will find the most open space in the public park (Giardini Pubblici) in the Castello area. The Lido di Venezia offers a modicum of traditional recreation activities: beaches, tennis courts and golf courses. A long sandy island that serves as a buffer from the Adriatic, the Lido was a fashionable European resort in the early 1900s. Some of Venice's most expensive hotels are still there, but the water may not be as clean and the beaches are overcrowded. A good way to see the island is by bike; rentals are available from Lido on Bike, a block from the vaporetto stop at Gran Viale S. Maria Elisabetta 21/B. Phone 041-526-8019. http://www.lidoonbike.it.
Beaches
Venezia Spiagge—Lungomare D'Annunzio
Venetians favor this beach on the Lido. In the summer season, it has a range of bars and restaurants, showers and changing rooms. There is one bar that is open all year-round.
A little further from the center of the Lido, San Nicolo beach is smaller and slightly cheaper but has the same range of facilities. There is a bus from Piazzale Ste. Maria Elisabetta and the No. 17 waterbus stop is nearby.

At both beaches, you can rent beach huts for the season or for a week, a variety of changing huts by the season, week or day and lounge chairs and umbrellas. Wi-Fi is also available. Open daily late May to mid-September. Piazzale Rava, Venice. Phone 041-526-0236 or 041-526-1249. http://www.veneziaspiagge.it.

Boating & Sailing
La Reale Societa Canottieri Bucintoro
Go boating with this prestigious club. It has a long tradition of lagoon rowing and numerous expats among its members. Great waterside location on the Zattere. Tuesday-Saturday 8 am-6 pm, Sunday and holidays 9 am-1 pm. Entrance fees start at 90 euros; discounts are available for tourists. Dorsoduro 263, Zattere ai Saloni, Venice. Phone 041-520-5630. http://www.bucintoro.org.

Venezia Lines
Offers affordable options for catamaran trips from Venice to locations in Croatia and Slovenia. Season runs mid-April to early October. Fares: 67 euros-78 euros one-way; 121 euros-134 euros round-trip. Isola di Tronchetto 21, Venice. Phone 041-882-1101. http://www.venezialines.com.

Golf
Circolo Golf Venezia
This distinctive club, stretching from the Adriatic beach to the Venetian lagoon, has an 18-hole, par-72 course. Private lessons available. Daily except Monday 8:30 am-7:30 pm. Greens fees 60 euros (70 euros on weekends) plus 20% value-added tax. Strada Vecchia 1, Alberoni, Lido di Venezia, Venice. Phone 041-731-333. http://www.circologolfvenezia.it.

Hiking & Walking
Club Alpino Italiano
The Venice branch of the Italian Alpine Club arranges climbing courses and accompanied hikes in the mountains. Cannaregio 883/C, Venice. Phone 041-716-900. http://www.caivenezia.it.

Trekking Italia
This nonprofit group offers guided hikes and walks outside the city. Via Toffoli 2/D, Venice-Marghera, Mestre. Phone 339-688-4522. http://www.trekkingitalia.com.

Tennis & Racquet Sports
Tennis Club Lido
This historic Venetian tennis club hosts summer tournaments. Daily 8 am-8 pm in summer. Via Sandro Gallo 163, Lido di Venezia, Venice. Phone 041-526-0954.

Nightlife
If it weren't for the city's university students, Venice's streets would be empty after dinnertime. The city is not known for having a stellar nightlife. Most discos and movie theaters are on the mainland, which is within easy reach via bus or cab. But you aren't completely without options in Venice: A number of small bars and pubs serve food and drink. Called bacari, they are similar to osterie, serving snacks (called cicheti locally). There are a few clubs to choose from, and many little bars have begun offering small-scale jazz or Latin-music shows. In the summer, these live shows multiply, and places such as Cafe Rosso hold concerts once a week. Free local publications put out by the Tourist Office contain live-music, event and show schedules. Bars and pubs usually close at 2 am.

If you're visiting during Carnival, expect to find a great deal of life in the city. Kiosks are set up throughout town with brochures explaining when and where the parties are. Organized events are centered in Piazza San Marco, and after that, the wilder life moves to Campo Santa Margherita.

Bars, Taverns & Pubs
Cafe Blue
This funky bar features frequent art exhibits and free Internet access for customers. Cafe Blue is popular with exchange students from all over the world. Live music on Friday. Monday-Saturday 8 am-2 am. Crosera Calle dei Preti, Dorsoduro 3778, Venice. Phone 041-710-227.

Cafe Noir
Although the two groups rarely mix, this cool, dark bar—and the street in front of it—hosts a curious mix of international students and well-dressed local twentysomethings. In the morning, you can drink a cappuccino while reading one of the foreign publications available there, or check your e-mail. Open Monday-Saturday 7 am-2 am, Sunday 9 am-2 am. Crosera San Pantalon, Dorsoduro 3805, Venice. Phone 041-710-925.

Caffe Aurora
In the afternoon, this is just your average overpriced cafe on St. Mark's Square. In the evening, though, the Aurora is the only venue on the piazza, attracting young musicians and DJs. Wednesday-Sunday noon-2 am. Piazza San Marco 48-50, San Marco, Venice. Phone 041-528-6405.

Caffe Rosso
Called Caffe Rosso on account of its striking bright red frontage, This traditional cafe has small tables that are the last to be taken inside on summer evenings. A meeting point for students and artists, it has a lively and slightly bohemian feel. Also a good spot for a midday snack on a sunny day or for an early cappuccino. Open Monday-Saturday 7 am-1 am. Campo Santa Margherita, Dorsoduro 2963, Venice. Phone 041-528-7998.

Cantinnone gia Schiavi
At least once, every visitor to Venice should stop into one of the old-fashioned osterie like this one, with its low beams, dark interior and affordable prices. It is family-run, friendly, slighty chaotic and so small that most patrons take their wine outside and sit on the steps of the little Ponte San Trovaso to savor it. Specialities include local wine and cichetta, typical Venetian appetizers. Open Monday-Saturday. Fondamenta Maravegie, Dorsoduro 992, Venice. Phone 041-523-0034.

Imagina
This sophisticated and gay-friendly bar and art gallery is located between Campo Santa Margherita and the Ponte dei Pugni. Comfortable chairs make it a nice place to rest your feet and have a midday spritz (the Venetian cocktail) or cappuccino. Monday-Saturday 8 am-2 am. Ponte dei Pughi, Dorsoduro 3126, Venice. Phone 041-241-0625. http://www.imaginacafe.it.

The Irish Pub
Formerly The Fiddler's Elbow. The new owners retained the sports-loving, Guinness-drinking ambience but updated the decor and the TVs. Daily 10 am-2 am. Campiello Testori (Strada Nuova), Cannaregio 3847, Venice. Phone 041-528-1439. http://www.theirishpubvenezia.com.

VinoVino
Located next to the Antico Martini restaurant, this wine bar serves more than 350 domestic and imported wines along with some snacks and local dishes. Try the sarde in saor (sardines in an onion marinade) or the octopus salad. Open daily 11:30 am-11:30 pm. San Marco 2007/A (between La Fenice Opera House and Via XXII Marzo), Venice. Phone 041-241-7688. http://www.anticomartini.com/vinovino_eng.htm.

Vinus
Small, modern and inviting, this wine bar offers a wide selection of Italian choices, as well as appetizers, live music and a candlelit ambience. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-midnight. Calle del Scaleter, Dorsoduro 3961, Venice. Phone 041-715-004.

Dance & Nightclubs
Centrale
This hipster and celebrity hangout is upscale enough for the Prada crowd. It is one of the coolest places to drink and relax near Piazza San Marco. Leather sofas, mixed drinks and electronic world beats prevail. Recommended restaurant and wine list, too. Daily 6:30 pm-2 am. Piscina Frezzeria, San Marco 1659/B, Venice. Phone 041-296-0664. http://www.centrale-lounge.com.

Piccolo Mondo
It's a bit of a pickup joint, but this tiny disco near the Accademia is one of the few places to dance, short of going to Mestre. Caters to an older crowd, and drinks can be pricey for tourists. Open daily 10:30 pm-4 am. Dorsoduro 1056/A, Venice. Phone 041-520-0371.

Live Music
Ai Postali
Lively nontouristy marble bar along the Rio Marin where you can sample a spritz on a seat by the canal and enjoy a totally spontaneous (and never-announced) jam session of local jazz musicians. Monday-Saturday 6 pm-2 am. Fondamenta Rio Martin, Santa Croce, Venice. Phone 041-715-156.

Venice Jazz Club
This is the venue of the excellent Venice Jazz Club Quartet, which entertains the small crowds with improvised tributes to American jazz legends. Cocktail prices are high, so make your first drink (included in the admission price) the best you can think of. Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday from 5:30 pm. Admission 15 euros. Ponte dei Pugni, Dorsoduro 3102, Venice. Phone 041-523-2056. http://www.venicejazzclub.com.

Performing Arts
The city's performing-arts offerings are extensive. Highlights are Italian opera, Vivaldi's music, Goldoni's theater and Commedia dell'Arte (the traditional theater genre dating to 1500). Opera, concerts and ballet performances take place at the reconstructed Fenice Opera House or the Malibran Theater close to Rialto.

Many palazzi and venues such as the Scuola Grande di San Rocco host classical-music concerts. All performances at the Chiesa di San Vidal and Scuola di San Teodoro are geared toward tourists. Tickets are sold at key locations around town by multilingual, costumed sales reps. English-language pieces are rarely performed. The season at the Teatro Carlo Goldoni is October-April. Avant-garde performances are held at Teatro Fondamenta Nuove. Keep an eye out for the wonderful contemporary music, dance and drama festivals run by the Biennale, the same organization responsible for the annual film festival and two yearly art exhibitions. Phone 041-521-8898. http://www.labiennale.org.

In general, the best way to find out what's on is to read the posters on the walls as you wander around town.

Music
I Musici Veneziani
Among the first costume groups to dedicate themselves to playing Venetian music, this group usually performs at Scuola Grande di San Teodoro. Campo San Salvador, Venice. Phone 041-521-0294. http://www.imusiciveneziani.com.

Interpreti Veneziani
These musicians play the music of Vivaldi, Galuppi and Albinoni—some of Italy's finest composers—and are among the city's better-known performers of 18th-century music. They perform year-round in various locations but mostly in the San Vidal Church in Campo San Vidal, near the Accademia Bridge. San Marco 2862/B, Venice. Phone 041-277-0561. http://www.interpretiveneziani.com.

Opera
Gran Teatro La Fenice
The historic La Fenice hosts regular performances. Some of the less-expensive seats have limited visibility of the stage. The staff members will show you the seating chart when you're booking. Audiotape tours and guided group tours of the theater are also available. Campo San Fantin, San Marco 1965, Venice. Phone 041-2424 for tickets. http://www.teatrolafenice.it.

Theater
Teatro Junghans
Located in an area that was formerly factories, this theater, known as Little Cheese Theatre because of its wedge shape, hosts various productions as well as an acting school. Giudecca 494/A, Venice. Phone 041-241-974. http://www.teatrojunghans.it.

Ticket Brokers
Hello Venezia
A city-wide agency where you can book tickets for all major events, including opera, concerts and Biennale happenings. Alongside the ACTV ticket sales kiosk at Piazzale Roma and the Ferrovia S. Lucia train station. Also at La Fenice opera house. You can also purchase the Venice Card there, which offers discounts on transportation and entry to sites and cultural events in Venice (http://www.venicecard.com). Most major credit cards. Phone 041-2424. http://www.hellovenezia.com.

Venues
Malibran Theater
This 17th-century theater hosts opera, ballet and chamber music. Campiello Malibran, Cannaregio (near Rialto), Venice. Phone 041-2424. http://www.teatrolafenice.it.

Spectator Sports
Regattas take place almost year-round, and these rate as both spectacle and sport. If you are a soccer fan, you might want to check out Venezia 1907, which plays in the Italian B league.
Soccer
Venezia 1907
Home games are played every other Sunday late September-early June at Pierluigi Penzo Stadium on the island of Sant'Elena. The cheap seats in the stadium curve (biglietti di curva) are nearly always sold out. Available tickets will set you back at least 30 euros. Try the stadium box office the day of or the day before a match. For information, contact the team office, located on the mainland at Via Ceccherini 19, Mestre, Venice. Phone 041-238-0771. http://www.veneziacalcio.it.

Shopping
It's hard to convey just how many shops there are in Venice—the sheer number of establishments is overwhelming. You really don't have to go out of your way to find gifts or souvenirs, at least in the well-traveled areas of town. Deciding what to buy is the bigger problem. Many of the shops carry the same stuff—Murano glass in dizzying variety, Carnival masks, lace (much of which is made outside of Venice—you can tell the real handmade stuff by the astronomical prices), and leather and silk goods ranging from inexpensive to luxurious.

Because you'll see the same merchandise everywhere, it can be difficult to buckle down and actually make your purchases. But you'll kick yourself later if you leave empty-handed. Millefiore glass beads are a good bet in Murano; they're distinctive and hard to find elsewhere—and much more expensive when you do find them.

Lots of high-dollar fashion boutiques are clustered around the area just west of Piazza San Marco. You'll also find plenty of souvenir shops around San Marco, though stores in the Rialto Bridge area may be less expensive. Traveling to the islands of Murano and Burano won't lead to many bargains, but you may find larger selections of glass and imported lace. For unusual art and glass, seek out the smaller shops on Murano, where excellent work is done. And though there are hundreds of small stores and boutiques in Venice, you'll have to travel to the mainland to find a mall.

In Italy, tax is included in the price of the merchandise, and stores are required to post a price for everything being sold. Even in expensive boutiques, there will be a card in the window listing the prices of the items on display. This doesn't mean the prices are inflexible, however. In smaller stores, you will often find that the person waiting on you is the owner who will cut you a deal if it helps make a sale—especially if you pay in cash.

Shopping Hours: Generally Monday-Saturday 9 am-12:30 or 1 pm and 3:30-7:30 pm in winter or 4-8 pm in summer. In high season, many places stay open on Sunday and through lunch. Souvenir shops are often open later in the evening and closed on Monday morning.

Antique Stores
Antichita San Basso
Pop in for a look at the selection of Venetian antiques. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-12:30 pm and 3-7 pm. Piazzetta dei Leoncini 308/C, San Marco, Venice. Phone 041-522-4020.

Bookstores
Editrice Franco Filippi
Original postcards, posters, engravings and books fill the charming shops affiliated with one of the most famous Venetian publishing houses. The owner, Franco Filippi, has a real passion for history, art and popular traditions. Daily 9 am-12:30 pm and 3-7:30 pm. Casseleria 5284, San Marco, Venice. Phone 041-523-6916.

Libreria Marco Polo
Good travel bookstore with both English-language literature and English-language walking guides to wonderful places all over Italy (and elsewhere). There is a second location at Cannaregio 5886/A, Calle del Teatro Malibran. Castello 5469, Venice. Phone 041-522-6343. http://www.libreriamarcopolo.com.

Libreria Mondadori
This bookshop prides itself on encouraging literary meets and poetry readings. Spacious premises close to Piazza San Marco, with an Internet point where foreign newspapers can be downloaded and read at leisure. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-10 pm, Sunday 3-8 pm. Salizzada San Moise 1345, San Marco, Venice. Phone 041-522-2193. http://www.libreriamondadorivenezia.it.

Libreria Studium
Just off St. Mark's Square, this well-stocked bookshop has guidebooks galore as well as plenty of literature and novels in English. Monday-Saturday 9 am-7:30 pm, Sunday 9:30 am-1:30 pm. Most major credit cards. Calle di Canonica, San Marco 337/C, Venice. Phone 041-522-2382.

Mare di Carta
This shop carries international books on all things nautical, including a selection of locally written and illustrated books on the Venetian lagoon. Located between the train station and Piazzale Roma. Open Monday-Saturday 9 am-1 pm and 3:30-7:30 pm. Fondamente dei Tolentini, Santa Croce 222, Venice. Phone 041-716-304. http://www.maredicarta.com.

Department Stores
Coin Rialto
This national chain store occupies a multistory Venetian Gothic palazzetto near the Rialto Bridge and stocks clothes, accessories, furnishings and housewares. Get a taste of what Italians really look for in their everyday shopping. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-7:30 pm, Sunday 11 am-7:30 pm. Cannaregio 5787, Venice. Phone 041-520-3581. http://www.coin.it.

Galleries
BAC Art Studio
If you're looking for a memorable Venice scene to take home with you, be sure to stop at the BAC Art Studio. The eclectic gallery carries paintings, photographs, engravings, posters and sculptures that capture the unusual beauty of the city's landscapes and its people. It is well-known for mixing classic posters with quirky self-portraits by local artist David Dalla Venezia. There's a second location at Ruga Rialto 1069, San Polo. Daily 10 am-1 pm and 3-7 pm. San Vio 862 (between the Accademia Bridge and the Guggenheim Collection), Dorsoduro, Venice. Phone 041-522-8171. http://www.bacart.com.

Bressanello Art Studio
This elegant little studio near Campo Santa Margherita offers well-priced original photographs, small sculptures and unique paintings by young local artists that avoid the stereotypes of most Venetian artwork. Particularly strong are the Mondrian-like photographs of Burano by the gallery owner, Fabio Bressanello. Daily 9:30 am-7:30 pm. 2751 Calle Lunga San Barnaba, Dorsoduro, Venice. Phone 041-724-1080. http://www.bressanelloartstudio.com.

Shopping Areas
Mercao di Rialto
The little shops lining the Rialto Bridge and surrounding area are usually less expensive than similar places in the San Marco area. When you cross the bridge, walk the inside route—you'll find stands and little shops with jewelry, masks, Murano glass and much more. An interesting side trip is to the nearby fish market, which is busy in the morning (except Monday). Most shops near the bridge are open daily 10 am-7 pm.

San Marco
Venice hosts a collection of some of the top names in Italian fashion. The area around Piazza San Marco, especially Calle Vallaresso, Via XXII Marzo and Frezzaria, has a particularly high number of alta moda shops. Be prepared to pay.

Borsalino. Calle del Loro, San Marco 4822. Phone 041-241-1945. http://www.borsalino.it.

Giorgio Armani. Calle Goldoni, San Marco 4412. Phone 041-523-4758. http://www.giorgioarmani.com.

Gucci. San Marco 1317 and San Marco 258. Phone 041-522-9119. http://www.gucci.com.

Max Mara. Mercerie, San Marco 268. Phone 041-522-6688. http://www.maxmarafashion.com.

Roberto Cavalli. Calle Vallaresso, San Marco 1314. Phone 041-520-5733. http://www.robertocavalli.com.

Prada. Salizada San Moise, San Marco 1464-1469. Phone 041-528-3966. http://www.prada.com.

Versace. Frezzaria, Campo San Mois, San Marco 1462-1523. Phone 041-520-0057. http://www.versace.com.

Specialty Stores
Attombri
Talented young brothers string together unique Byzantine-style necklaces and decorative delights in the old goldsmiths' area near Rialto Bridge. Sottoportico Degli Orafi 74, Rialto, Venice. Phone 041-521-2524. http://www.attombri.com.

Ballarin
Some of the most interesting and original glass designs in objets d'art, tableware and jewelry. The colors are vibrant, the designs fresh and the prices reasonable. Definitely a standout amid the sameness surrounding it. Open daily April-October. Fontamenta Lorenzo Radi 14, Murano. Phone 041-739-375. http://www.ballarin.com.

Campiello di Arras
A cooperative near the Ca' Foscari University that produces original hand-woven fabrics, garments and bags in lively colors. Campiello Squelini, Dorsoduro 3235, Venice. Phone 041-522-6460.

Cartavenezia
At this shop, you'll find artistic, handmade paper products, from stamped reliefs to paper shoes, as well as unique, high-quality paper for travelers wishing to capture their view of Venice in paint or ink. Open Monday 3:30-7:30 pm, Tuesday-Saturday 11 am-1 pm and 3:30-7:30 pm. Calle della Chiesa, Santa Croce 2125 (near Ca' Pesaro and Rialto), Venice. Phone 041-524-1283. http://www.cartavenezia.it.

David's Shop
This store carries a wide variety of art objects with Jewish themes, such as millefiori Stars of David and glass menorahs, many made of Murano glass. Open daily except Saturday 10 am-6:30 pm. Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, Cannaregio 2895, Venice. Phone 041-275-0418. http://www.davidshop.com.

Giovanna Zanella
This shop offers unique and stunning shoes and accessories designer-made by a Venice native. Open Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-1 pm and 3-7 pm. Most major credit cards. Calle Carminati 5641, San Lio, Castello, Venice. Phone 041-523-5500.

Massimo Micheluzzi
Massimo's gorgeous modern glass sculptures and vases put the overwrought products of most Murano factory-produced glass works to shame. His work is rapidly being collected by museums, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Near the Accademia Bridge, Dorsoduro 1071, Venice. Phone 041-528-2190.

Mazzon Le Borse
This family-run boutique has been handcrafting elegant leather handbags and accessories for Venetian women for more than 35 years. Campiello San Toma, San Polo 2807, Venice. Phone 041-520-3421.

Mondo Novo
At one of the oldest and most innovative mask-making ateliers, artist Guerrino Lovato specializes in papier-mache masks suitable for wearing. Feel free to try on any model in the shop, but the mask-maker knows that in the end, you don't choose your mask, the mask chooses you. Masks can also be created from a client's design. Open Monday-Saturday 9 am-6 pm. Rio Terra Canal 3063, Dorsoduro (near Campo Santa Margherita), Venice. Phone 041-528-7344. http://www.mondonovomaschere.it.

Paolo Brandolisio Workshop
Forcole, the sculptural oarlocks that are unique to Venetian boats such as gondolas, are works of art as well as utilitarian tools. Paolo Brandolisio is one of only four active forcole makers in the world. Near the Ponte dei Greci, Castello 4725, Venice. Phone 041-522-4155.

Pasticceria Marchini
Choose from classic chocolates, freshly dipped fruits, and delicious cakes and cookies at Venice's most intriguing sweets shop. There are also oddities such as chocolate cell phones and wrenches. Fragile cookies are pre-packed to travel safely. Daily 9 am-10 pm. Calle Spadaria, San Marco 676, Venice. Phone 041-522-9109. http://www.golosessi.com.

Rialta
Delightful boutique crammed to the rafters with costume jewelry and frilly lace. Sottoportici di Rialto 56, Venice. Phone 041-528-5710.

Rivoaltus
Handcrafted paper and tooled-leather books make beautiful souvenirs from this tiny shop on top of Rialto Bridge. Ponte di Rialto, San Polo 11, Venice. Phone 041-523-6195.

Sent
Incredible glass jewelry is created by the amazing Sent sisters, who descend from a centuries-long tradition of glassmakers from Murano. Their main Venice showroom is near the Guggenheim Collection at Campo San Vio, Dorsoduro 669, Venice. Phone 041-520-8136. http://www.marinaesusannasent.com.

Serena Vianello
Near Rialto bridge, Serena Vianello, a former glass-jewelry designer, creates timeless, refined Venetian designs using sumptuous silks, soft velvets and warm tweeds mixed together with color schemes that bring to mind famous Venetian paintings. Buy your jackets, scarves, stoles, bags and colorful silk or velvet shoes (with rubber soles) there and stroll through Venice like a true classy Venetian lady. Monday-Saturday 10 am-noon, 3:30-7:30 pm. Campo San Aponal, San Polo 1226, Venice. Phone 041-522-3351. http://www.serenavianello.com.

Vetreria Artistica Archimede Seguso
There you'll find art glassware produced by one of the most renowned masters from Murano. Particularly famous for glass sculptures in intense colors. Two showrooms are located in Piazza San Marco; if you have time, schedule an appointment to visit the furnace on Murano. Daily 9 am-7:30 pm. Serenella 18, Murano. Phone 041-739-234.

Vizio Virtu
A paradise for chocaholics, this place called "Vice-Virtue" offers a mind-blowing selection of hand-crafted chocolates with exotic flavors. Some creations are filled with Barolo wine, blueberry, basil, tobacco, ginger or even pumpkins. Do drink the iced chocolate in summer, it's wonderfully refreshing. Monday-Saturday 10 am-6:30 pm. Calle de Campaniel, San Polo 2829a, Venice. Phone 041-275-0149. http://www.viziovirtu.com.

Itinerary
Day Trips
To Burano. The most startling aspect of Burano is the color—every house is painted a bright hue, often two, creating a dazzling rainbow in any direction you look. Once the center of Venice's venerated lace-making activities, sadly, Burano now houses an all-but-dead art. You'll see very few older ladies sitting in their doorways working on delicate lace pieces, but you'll know by the price tags when you've found some of their handiwork. Formerly a lace school, the Museo del Merletto at PIazza Galuppi is a museum dedicated to lace-making. If you don't understand what all the fuss is about, stop in and take a look at the exquisite antique pieces on display.

The 16th-century Chiesa di San Martino, across the main square from Museo del Merletto, houses a work by Giovanni Tiepolo. A water bus to Burano takes 30 minutes from Murano or up to an hour from the Fondamente Nuove stop in Venice.

To Lido di Venezia. Once one of Europe's top seaside resorts (think Thomas Mann's Death in Venice), the Lido is a shadow of its former self. Some wonderful hotels and resorts remain, as do expanses of sand that still become crowded with locals and tourists alike in the summer. But there are better places for a beach holiday. Fans of art nouveau architecture will enjoy seeing the villas and hotels of that period in the residential streets, as well as the over-the-top Hungaria Palace Hotel on Gran Viale S. Maria Elisabetta (http://www.hotelhungaria.com). The Lido swarms with glamorous activity during the annual Venice Film Festival in late August. The Lido's Jewish cemetery, which dates to the 14th century, has been restored and can be visited with a guide.

To Murano. You can't escape the glass industry in Venice. Colorful glass souvenirs are sold absolutely everywhere, and among the mountains of kitsch, you'll find some of the best bargains around. Most of the glass workshops were moved to the island of Murano in 1291 to reduce the risk of fire in the city. A visit to the island offers the chance to see master glassblowers at work, as well as to browse store after store of glass items—from gaudy curios to true art forms. When you get off the water bus at Murano (a 10-minute ride from Fondamente Nuove or a 45-minute journey from the San Zaccaria stop near Piazza San Marco), you'll likely be met by a hawker who will lead you to a glassblowing demonstration geared to tourists. The hawker will then take you to a shop but will usually let you off easy if you're not interested in buying. If you have any inkling at all of buying Murano glass while in Venice, the island is the best place to do so, but do shop around to get a sense of the prices. Resist the street touts (and offers from your hotel) for "free" tours by water taxi to the glass factories of Murano—or if you go, be prepared for heavy pressure to buy from their "special" showrooms. Prices are highly inflated. Be aware that these are scams, and that there is indeed no such thing as a free ride. The island's Museo Vetrario (Glass Museum) has some interesting displays worth seeing. It is open daily except Wednesday 10 am-5 pm November-March, 10 am-6 pm April-October. Admission is 5.5 euros. Phone 041-739-586. http://www.museiciviciveneziani.it.

To Torcello. The farthest of the lagoon islands on most itineraries, Torcello is by far the most unusual. Home to very few people, it was once the site of Venice's first major settlement. There you'll find a different Venice from that of Piazza San Marco. The main square, Piazza Torcello, is just about the only place to visit and is located down a pleasant path along a canal from the water-bus stop. The piazza is the site of Venice's earliest church, the 11th- and 12th-century Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. The Cathedral is noteworthy for its powerful Byzantine mosaics. A newer basilica, a bell tower and an archaeological museum share the piazza, along with a marble chair known as Attila the Hun's throne. Torcello is a five-minute ride by water bus from Burano, but the relaxing trip from Venice itself can take up to an hour, starting from the Fondamente Nuove. The basilica is open daily March-October 10:30 am-6 pm, November-February 10 am-5 pm. Admission is 3 euros. Add an extra 2 euros for a guided tour of the bell tower (phone 041-296-0630). The Torcello Museum is also worth seeing; it's a small but excellent archaeology museum. March-October 10:30 am-5 pm, November-February 10 am-4:30 pm. Closed Monday and holidays. 3 euros. Phone 041-730-761. You can also purchase an all-inclusive ticket to the cathedral, bell tower and Torcello Museum for 6 euros.

To Riviera del Brenta. Many wealthy Venetians built impressive villas for use as summer homes along a stretch of land between Venice and Padua that's called the Riviera del Brenta (named after the river that runs through it). Though not all of the villas remain open, those that do are wonderful sites. In the town of Stra, there's the splendid 18th-century Villa Pisani, with frescoes by Giovanni Tiepolo. Others worthy of attention include Villa Barbarigo, Villa Velluti and Palladio's Villa La Malcontenta. (La Malcontenta, the unhappy one, was so dubbed after a Foscari wife accused of marital misconduct was exiled there.) We suggest checking with the tourist office in Venice or with the Regional Institute for the Venetian Villas (phone 041-523-5606) for opening hours and seasons. Boat tours are available (http://www.ilburchiello.it or http://www.battellidelbrenta.it), or you can reach the area by bus or car. Distances vary according to the villa, but Stra is roughly 20 mi/30 km west of Venice.

To Vicenza. Much of Vicenza bears the mark of the great architect Andrea Palladio, whose masterpieces in town include the beautiful Basilica in Piazza dei Signori (not a church, but a council chamber), the Olympic Theater and many palazzi that line the city's streets. The significance of the architecture and the abundance of examples draw many tourists, but you can also go to enjoy a walk in the historic center of this small, pleasant city. Several of the Veneto's most outstanding villas are in the area right around the city. Vicenza is about 40 mi/65 km west of Venice, and is easily reached by train or car.

To Verona. Lying 70 mi/110 km west of Venice in a beautiful part of the country, Verona is blessed and cursed to be remembered as the setting for Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet. This means a huge tourist trade admiring a fake balcony, but the town offers so much more. The Arena, a wonderfully preserved Roman amphitheater built in the first century AD and one of the largest in existence, is still used as a performing-arts venue. A summer opera performance in the Arena is reason enough to visit Verona. Other points of interest include lovely churches and the town's three main piazzas: Piazza Bra, Piazza delle Erbe and Piazza dei Signori. The Castelvecchio Museum is also worth a visit—it has paintings by Jacopa Bellini, Vittore Carpaccio, Paolo Veronese, Jacopo Tintoretto and Andrea Mantegna. The church of San Zeno, a 15-minute walk from Castelvecchio, is one of Italy's foremost examples of Italian Romanesque buildings anywhere. For more information, contact the main tourist office IAT at Via degli Alpini 9 (near Piazza Bra). Phone 045-806-8680. http://www.tourism.verona.it.

Local Tours
Sightseeing tours are readily available, ranging from walking tours to canal tours by gondola. According to state law, all tours must be given by licensed guides. For more information, visit http://www.guidevenezia.it or http://www.turismovenezia.it. Codess Cultura
Previously a cultural organization, this firm offers customized individual and group tours of Venice and the areas surrounding the city. It can also assist visitors in setting up banquets and other social events in Venice. Campo San Polo 2120, Venice. Phone 041-710-200. http://www.codesscultura.it.

Heliair Venice
Treat yourself to a helicopter flight with brilliant views over the lagoon and city. Fares start at 110 euros for a memorable 10-minute trip, but longer routes are available. Aeroporto "G. Nicelli" Via Renato Morandi, Venice. Phone 041-526-0215. http://www.heliair.it.

Kele & Teo
This company has three tourist offices in Venice. Kele & Teo offers guided tours around Venice, as well as to the islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello. Most trips take only a couple of hours. The office is closed on weekends. Prices vary. San Marco 4930, Venice. Phone 041-520-8722. http://www.keleteo.com.

RiViviNatura Viaggi
Take a trip across the lagoon on a traditional bragozzo fishing boat. A whole day is spent out on the water, visiting islands and exploring the extensive lagoon, both the northern and southern sections, with its amazing bird life. Calle Vitturi 2923, San Marco, Venice. Phone 041-296-0726. http://www.rivivinatura.it.

Venice Events
This group offers a choice of walking and boat tours around town, as well as minibus trips to the countryside and wineries. It can also help to arrange weddings in Venice. Prices vary. Phone 041-523-9979. http://www.veniceevents.com.

Dining
Dining Overview
There are a number of good places to eat, especially if you're in the market for seafood or regional dishes. In fact, with such a prolific number of places to get a meal in Venice, it may be hard to choose. If you're looking for a break from Italian food, your choices are dramatically lessened. As a general rule, reservations are recommended.

Seafood is king of the table in traditional Venetian cuisine. One local delicacy, sarde in saor (fresh sardines, fried and then marinated in onion, vinegar and raisins), gives an idea of the strong and tasty flavors to be found in Venice. Baccala (salt cod) dishes are on many menus, as is crab (variably called granseola, moleche and other names), as well as exotic seafood salads and squid. Risottos of all colors are common.

Don't look for genuine Venetian recipes (or even particularly good food) in restaurants with a menu of the day prominently displayed in four languages. You'll find better meals elsewhere, usually just off the main streets. If you are on a budget (or even if you aren't), follow the locals to a bacaro or osteria (small publike restaurant). The delicious cicheti (little appetizers often made of fish or meat) and ombre (glasses of wine) are too good to pass up. There are several choices around the Rialto area.

Vegetarians usually don't have problems in Venice, as many pasta dishes, salads and pizzas are made without meat. If you drop by a bacaro, you'll also find a variety of Venetian-style vegetables to choose from. Families will gravitate to pizzerias, which really aren't just for children and will probably offer more variety in toppings than you expect. Pizza is a common meal for adults and children alike. Restaurants are generally open for lunch 12:30-3 pm, and for dinner 7 pm-midnight, and most close one or two days a week.

At coffee and pastry shops, as well as bacari, you'll find two prices for every item on the menu—the standing price and the sitting price. Often you will see a sign added to the price list, letting you know that it refers to products consumed at the bar only.

Dining in Venice (and the whole of Italy) has become far more pleasant for nonsmokers, as all restaurants by law have posted "no smoking" signs in their indoor dining rooms.

Expect to pay within these general guidelines for a dinner for one, not including drinks: $ = less than 30 euros; $$ = 30 euros-40 euros; $$$ = 41 euros-50 euros; $$$$ = more than 50 euros. Tax is legally included in menu prices, but watch out for an extra servizio (service charge) and coperto (cover charge). Tips are automatically included at the more expensive places.

Local & Regional
Al Covo
This restaurant's kitchen is gaining one of the best reputations in town. Its chef and owner is Cesare Benelli, but its soul is Diane, Cesare's American wife. Not far from Piazza San Marco and tucked away in a quiet alley behind the Riva degli Schiavoni, it serves innovative Venetian dishes, such as tagliatelle con moleche e peperoni (pasta with soft-shelled crab and peppers), and gnocchetti with go (goby), scampi and clams. Excellent wine list. Open Friday-Tuesday for lunch and dinner. Closed late December-late January. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Campiello della Pescaria 3968, Castello, Venice. Phone 041-522-3812.

Avogaria
Cuisine from Puglia in Italy's south is combined with local tastes and is served in this stylish eatery not far from the Zattere. Steamed mussels in a light white sauce or a puree of broad beans with shrimp are typical offerings. The wine list concentrates on the Friuli and Veneto regions. Daily except Tuesday. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Dorsoduro 1629, Venice. Phone 041-296-0491. http://www.avogaria.com.

Bancogiro
Luscious, light meals served in what used to be Venice's first private bank. On the edge of the Rialto market district, this place has divine outdoor seating on the Grand Canal. No pasta but fresh fish served with vegetables, such as branzino con arancia e cumino (sea bass with orange and cumin) and regional cheeses and sausages. Excellent wines. Daily except Sunday evening and Monday. Most major credit cards. Campo San Giacometto, San Polo 122, Venice. Phone 041-523-2061.

Ca' d'Oro (Alla Vedova)
A favorite of locals, Alla Vedova is a beautiful example of simple Venetian cuisine. It's an extremely popular spot for cicheti and can get chaotic and crowded. Try the freshly grilled squid or the mussels, schie fritte (fried tiny grey lagoon shrimp) or the delicious fegato alla veneziano (liver Venetian style). Open daily except Thursday for dinner, Sunday for lunch. $$-$$$. Calle del Pistor, Cannaregio 3912 (across Strada Nova from Ca' d'Oro), Venice. Phone 041-528-5324.

Dalla Marisa
Signora Marisa hails from a dynasty of butchers. Her small place may not be very comfortable, but you will rub shoulders with locals, gondolieri and the odd tourist lucky enough to find it. Winter is high season for meat and fowl. Expect delicacies such as filled pheasant, pasta with wild boar sugo or veal ragout. The beef risotto is wonderful. In summer more fish dishes appear. Try marinated sea bass or grated scallops. It's best to go for a set menu, which includes a decent house wine. Open Sunday-Tuesday for lunch only, Wednesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations highly recommended. $$. No credit cards. Fondamenta San Giobbe, Canareggio 652/B (As you walk down the Lista di Spagna from the train station, this location is to the right before crossing the first bridge. Walk past Ponte Tre Arch), Venice. Phone 041-720-211.

La Bitta
This establishment just off Campo San Barnaba serves meat dishes ranging from duck to Tuscan beef—but no seafood. Enjoy the agnolotti (big ravioli) filled with seasonal vegetables, such as spring asparagus with a Taleggio cheese sauce, but leave plenty of room for the divine desserts, rich in chocolate and hazelnut cream. Good wine list. Open Monday-Saturday for dinner only. $$-$$$. No credit cards. Calle Lunga San Barnaba, Dorsoduro 2753/A, Venice. Phone 041-523-0531.

Le Bistrot de Venise
Between Campo San Luca and Piazza San Marco, this small restaurant pursues the rediscovery of Venetian cuisine and wines from the Renaissance to modern times with a selection of seasonal and regional offerings. Good French and Italian cheeses and wine list. Occasional live cabaret or jazz music in the evening, as well as an extensive art and literary program that includes late-afternoon discussions (in Italian) as well as food and wine tastings. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Calle dei Fabbri 4685, San Marco, Venice. Phone 041-523-6651. http://www.bistrotdevenise.com.

Ostaria Vivaldi
Drop in for an ombra (glass of wine) and polpette (fish or meatballs that are baked or fried) around noon when the cicheti are fresh. Local ambience and traditional Venetian food, including the homey, delicious salt cod with polenta and fegato alla veneziana (even if you think you don't like liver, try this). $$. Most major credit cards. Near Campo San Polo. San Polo 1457, Venice. Phone 041-523-8185. http://www.osteria-vivaldi.com.

Osteria Da Alberto
Of the many bacari or osterie in the city, we especially love this one. One reason is that you'll see older Venetian specialties on the menu that are almost impossible to find in other restaurants, such as polenta con le seppie in nero (polenta with ink fish in black sauce) and fegato alla veneziana (Venetian-style liver with onions). These delicacies practically cry out for an ombra (glass of wine). Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Calle Giacinto Gallina (near SS Giovanni e Paolo hospital), Cannaregio 5401, Venice. Phone 041-523-8153.

Ribo
Smart surroundings highlight the artistic presentation, beginning with appetizers of tuna carpaccio or a creamy fennel soup with steamed shrimp. Lamb is paired with the slightly bitter, red Treviso chicory (available throughout the winter). The cheese selection is very good. Open daily except Wednesday for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Fondamenta Minotto Santa Croce 158, Venice. Phone 041-524-2486.

Cuisines
Asian
Tempio del Paradiso
Look for the sign in Campo San Bartolomeo (near Rialto Bridge) to find your way to one of the first Chinese restaurants to open in Venice. Classic Chinese cuisine served in an elegantly furnished setting. Daily for lunch and dinner. $-$$. No credit cards. Calle dell'Orso, San Marco 5495, Venice. Phone 041-522-4673.

Italian
Ai Gondolieri
This restaurant has a menu that's unusual for Venice—no fish. Good for meat lovers, but vegetarian dishes are also available. Try the salad with duck and 30-year-aged balsamic vinegar, or the beef fillet in Barolo wine and porcini. The tasting menu is also recommended. Look there for the local favorite, cavallo: horsemeat. Daily except Tuesday for lunch and dinner. Closed for lunch July and August. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Dorsoduro 366 (near the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and the Ponte del Formager), Venice. Phone 041-528-6396. http://www.aigondolieri.com.

Andri
Popular during the Venice Film Festival, Andri is an old-fashioned trattoria. It's at its loveliest in the summer, when dining under the quiet pergola is a pleasure. The fritto misto (a selection of fried seafood) is memorable, as is the simple and classic risotto di pesce (seafood risotto). Open Wednesday-Sunday for lunch and dinner. Reservations required during the Venice Film Festival. $$$. Most major credit cards. Via Lepanto 21, Lido, Venice. Phone 041-526-5482.

Caravella
This restaurant is located in a fashionable shopping area, a few steps from St. Mark's Square, in the Hotel Saturnia. An elegant spot for romantic dinners in either the nautical ambience inside or the garden courtyard, but don't expect to meet many Venetians there. Traditional cuisine with a good wine list and delightful staff. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Calle XXII Marzo 2397, San Marco, Venice. Phone 041-520-8901. http://www.restaurantlacaravella.com.

Casin dei Nobili
The chef has a way with fish, whether in the delicate melt-in-the-mouth treatment of sea bass with asparagus and radicchio or the meatier monkfish in a supportive sauce of leeks, cherry tomatoes and basil. The pasta and sweets are all made in-house, as is the bread—so good that it's easy to devour the whole basketful while reading the menu. Open daily except Tuesday for lunch and dinner (pizza served until 7 pm). $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Calle Lombardo (Calle della Toletta becomes Lombardo before entering Campo S. Barnaba), Dorsoduro 2765, Venice. Phone 041-241-1841.

Do Forni
A Venice standard. Heads of state and ambassadors can often be found dining there. Two of its renowned dishes are capesante alla Casanova (a scallop dish with porcini mushrooms) and risotto al Tiziano, but you can't begin a meal any better than with their deceptively simple scallops and shrimp on arugula served with olive oil, lemon, salt and pepper. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Calle del Forno, San Marco 457-470, Venice. Phone 041-523-2148. http://www.doforni.it.

Harry's Bar
In the past, this place was a haunt of great artists and writers. Arrigo Cipriani's restaurant now welcomes everyone from movie stars to tourists. The carpaccio, risotto, pasta e fagioli (pasta and beans), fritto di scampi (fried prawns) and flambeed sweet crespelle (similar to crepes) are tasty. The birthplace of the Bellini: Ordering this drink there is yet another pleasurable way to break your bank in Venice. Daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Calle Vallaresso 1323, San Marco, Venice. Phone 041-528-5777. http://www.cipriani.com.

Lineadombra
Fusion cuisine deeply rooted in local traditions using fresh ingredients from the lagoon and its island farms, such as the outstanding tuna tartare or the salt-baked sea bass. The wine list is excellent, though pricey. Unlike most of the city's restaurants, the decor is sleek and minimalist, and you'll need a reservation to score the lone indoor window table. In nice weather, sit on the over-water terrace with views to Guidecca. Open daily for lunch and dinner. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Ponte dell'Umilta, Dorsodura 19, Venice. Phone 041-241-1881. http://www.ristorantelineadombra.com.

Locanda Cipriani
Travel to the tranquil island of Torcello and you'll find this much-extolled restaurant, host to royalty and the famous. Immersed in vegetable gardens, history and silence, Locanda Cipriani is an experience to savor. Our favorite time to go is in the spring. Try a specialty of Torcello: the delicious risotto alla Torcellana, prepared with fresh vegetables from local gardens. Open daily except Tuesday for lunch and dinner. Closed in January. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Piazza Santa Fosca 29, Torcello, Venice. Phone 041-730-150. http://www.locandacipriani.com.

Pizzeria Birraria La Corte
Formerly an old brewery, this place has been transformed into a modernly furnished pizza restaurant. Popular with a young crowd. Pleasant outdoor seating in summer. Open daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. $-$$. Most major credit cards. Campo San Polo 2168, San Polo, Venice. Phone 041-275-0570. http://www.birrarialacorte.it.

Pizzeria due Colonne
If you're looking for a place to eat outside in good weather, head to this pizzeria. Sit under the gazebo in the picturesque square and drink chilled white wine. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. $-$$. No credit cards. Campo Sant'Agostin 2343, San Polo, Venice. Phone 041-524-0685.

Trattoria alla Madonna
An old (it's been there for half a century) favorite with locals and repeat visitors alike, it's a little touristy, but the seafood is fresh and consistently good. Efficient service. Open daily except Wednesday for lunch and dinner. Closed in January and for two weeks in August. Reservations not accepted. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Rialto, Calle de la Madonna, San Polo 594, Venice. Phone 041-522-3824. http://www.ristoranteallamadonna.com.

Vini da Gigio
This tiny, well-known restaurant has good traditional food and a nice selection of wines and vegetarian dishes. Specialties include moeche frite (fried crabs), which are available only in the spring. Consider ordering the mixed seafood plate, with succulent scallops (capesante) on the halfshell, baby shrimp on monkfish medallions and carpaccio of the market fish-of-the-day. Slow service. Open Wednesday-Sunday for lunch and dinner. Reservations highly recommended. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Fondamenta San Felice 3628/A (just off Strada Nuova behind the Billa supermarket), Cannaregio, Venice. Phone 041-528-5140. http://www.vinidagigio.com.

Cafes & Tearooms
Andrea Zanin
A pasticceria (cake shop) with a difference, this tiny corner shop with black decor has a spotlit display bar with a lineup of tiny sweet and savory tidbits almost too good to eat. Chocolate minimousse, flaky pastry pizza snacks, plus alcoholic and nonalcoholic drinks. Monday-Saturday 7:30 am-8 pm, Sunday 10:30 am-7:30 pm. Most major credit cards. Campo San Luca, San Marco, Venice. Phone 041-522-4803.

Cafe Patisserie Rizzo
Step inside the bakery to see the full range of cakes and pastries offered, then enjoy your selection at a table on Lido's central avenue while people-watching. Also inside is a small grocery shop and a salumeria where you can get good picnic makings. Open daily. $. Most major credit cards. Gran Viale dello S. Maria Elisabetta 18, Lido, Venice. Phone 041-526-0011.

Caffe Florian
Opened in 1720 in Piazza San Marco, Caffe Florian enjoys the mood of its spectacular setting along with the distinction of hosting leading artists and literary figures, a custom that continues with ongoing innovative exhibitions. Whether you choose from the sumptuously decorated interior rooms or the splendor of the piazza, expect to pay some of the highest prices in Venice for even the simplest items. Daily 9 am-midnight. Closed on Wednesday in winter. $$-$$$$. A cappuccino may cost you 10.5 euros (US$15), or even more when a band is playing. If you want to save money, sip your espresso at the counter where it's a lot cheaper. Piazza San Marco 56/59, Venice. Phone 041-520-5641. http://www.caffeflorian.com.

Nico
Specializing in ice creams, this cafe is located on the sunny Zattere overlooking the large Giudecca canal. Outdoor seating on a dock-style patio over the canal is perfect for a summer afternoon. Open daily February-October 6:45 am-10 pm; closed Thursday November-January. $. Fondamenta alle Zattere, Dorsoduro 922, Venice. Phone 041-522-5293.

Seafood
Ai Mercanti
This is a good choice for a romantic evening for two, though the staff can be a bit full of themselves. You'll find seasonally inspired takes on classic Venetian seafood dishes. The delicate risotto agli scampi e carciofi (risotto with prawns and artichokes) is wonderful. Among the best wine cellars in Venice. Menu changes according to season. Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Monday for dinner only. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Calle dei Fuseri 4346, San Marco, Venice. Phone 041-523-8269. http://www.aimercanti.com.

Corte Sconta
It's not easy to find this little trattoria near the church of San Martino and the monumental entrance to the Arsenale, but it's worth it. Try the cozze ripiene e gratinate (stuffed mussels) and baccala mantecato (pureed salt cod, often served on polenta wedges). Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Closed early January-early February and mid-July to mid-August. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Calle del Pestrin 3886, Castello, Venice. Phone 041-522-7024.

Dalla Morra
Shaded tables sit right along the canal, and the menu features seafood from the lagoon—best sampled in the gigantic gran fritto della laguna or the grilled equvalent. The banzino (sea bass) is excellent, or you can opt for the local classic sarde in saor, sardines in a tangy onion sauce. Three-course lunch specials are 35 euros. Open daily for lunch and dinner. $$. No credit cards. Fondamente Manin 75, Murano. Phone 041-736-344. http://www.ristorantedallamora.com.

Fiaschetteria Toscana
Specializing in seafood dishes, Fiaschetteria Toscana uses only seasonal fresh produce. Among its acclaimed dishes: polenta with schie (tiny lagoon shrimp), spaghetti with vongole veraci (clams) and Venetian-style liver. More than 600 wines are also available. Open Thursday-Monday for lunch and dinner, Wednesday for lunch only. Closed the last week in July and the first week in August. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Salizzada San Giovanni Crisostomo 5719, Cannaregio, Venice. Phone 041-528-5281. http://www.fiaschetteriatoscana.it.

Osteria da Fiore
The cuisine has been called some of the best in the world. Mara and Maurizio Martin's restaurant is in a narrow calle between Campo San Polo and Campo San Giacomo dell'Orio. The all-seafood menu is composed of reinvented traditional recipes, such as penne alle capesante (pasta and scallops) with broccoli. Strictly fresh seasonal ingredients are used. Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations required. Jackets required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Calle del Scaleter 2202, San Polo, Venice. Phone 041-721-308. http://www.dafiore.net.

Poste Vecie
One of the city's oldest eateries, this place is located next to the fish market near Rialto and reached by its own little bridge (you may have to kick some empty fish crates out of the way to get there at lunchtime). Not surprisingly, seafood is the specialty, including sarde in saor (sardines in onion sauce) and baccala mantecato (salt cod). Best, though, is the simply grilled fresh market fish. Open daily except Tuesday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Pescheria di Rialto 1620, San Polo, Venice. Phone 041-721-822. http://www.postevecie.com.

Security
Etiquette
Contrary to the relaxed image many have of Italy, the Italian business world emphasizes formality and procedure. Get assistance from a local contact, go through proper channels and always present yourself and your firm as well-polished and accomplished.

Appointments—Having an intermediary is essential. Without someone to make the appropriate contacts, you'll find it hard to get much accomplished. Your go-between can help schedule meetings, which should be set up well in advance. It is difficult—nearly impossible, in fact—to call on a businessperson unannounced. Confirm your meetings a day or two before they're set to take place. Punctuality is expected throughout the country. Your Italian counterparts may or may not be as prompt: Those in the northern part of the country generally are; those to the south are less so.

Personal Introductions—Greet others with a handshake and a slight nod. Titles are important: Use any professional titles that are supplied on introduction or, better yet, ask for a list of the participants and their official titles in advance of the meeting. Continue to use the title and last name unless you are instruc